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Steeda Progressive Spring review

aleccolin

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I LOVE the way my progressives work on street and at the last time attack event I did, but honestly it sits a little ass-high with more rake than I expected, doesn't seem to have dropped a full inch in the rear. I'll take a pic first chance I get.

Could this be due to the PP cars not having a spare tire? That'll take some weight off the rear.

The spring rates for the height adjustable rear springs are 20-30% more so I feel like going that route would unbalance the car. Shimming the front strut mounts is an option but that's a bandaid fix IMO and I like the height at the front as it sits now.

Too soon for coilovers at this point, wondering if anybody has had this issue and found a solution.

That said, these are much better matched to the valving in the OE performance pack dampers, body control is greatly improved even on stock sway bars. Wouldn't trade these for the world, just sweating aesthetics at this point.
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tj@steeda

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Post a picture of your car & how long have you had the springs on for?

Many thanks for the feedback!

TJ
 

Norm Peterson

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I LOVE the way my progressives work on street and at the last time attack event I did, but honestly it sits a little ass-high with more rake than I expected, doesn't seem to have dropped a full inch in the rear. I'll take a pic first chance I get.
How much less than 1" rear lowering would you guess it's at now?

Did you take any 'before' measurements so you could track this?


Norm
 

aleccolin

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Post a picture of your car & how long have you had the springs on for?

Many thanks for the feedback!

TJ
Springs have been on for over a month now, I'll post a pic asap.

How much less than 1" rear lowering would you guess it's at now?

Did you take any 'before' measurements so you could track this?


Norm
I'm not going to guess at the actual lowering because I didn't take a before measurement, but it's otherwise stock with OE PP wheels and tires, so I'll take some fender height measurements and hopefully that helps figure it out.
 

jasonstang

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I LOVE the way my progressives work on street and at the last time attack event I did, but honestly it sits a little ass-high with more rake than I expected, doesn't seem to have dropped a full inch in the rear. I'll take a pic first chance I get.

Could this be due to the PP cars not having a spare tire? That'll take some weight off the rear.

The spring rates for the height adjustable rear springs are 20-30% more so I feel like going that route would unbalance the car. Shimming the front strut mounts is an option but that's a bandaid fix IMO and I like the height at the front as it sits now.

Too soon for coilovers at this point, wondering if anybody has had this issue and found a solution.

That said, these are much better matched to the valving in the OE performance pack dampers, body control is greatly improved even on stock sway bars. Wouldn't trade these for the world, just sweating aesthetics at this point.
Did you loosen the suspension components to clock the bushings?
 

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SteedaTech

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Steeda Progressive Springs

We always torque the suspension components at curb to eliminate an artificial ride height. Which is can be done on a drive on lift

The rear should drop approximately one inch. Alway, measure from the center of the wheel hub to the wheel opening,for best results.

Plus, make sure the vehicle is on a flat surface.

Thanks,

Steeda tech
 

aleccolin

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Did you loosen the suspension components to clock the bushings?
I installed the springs when I installed the Steeda IRS support and alignment kit and the diff bushing inserts, so the whole subframe was loose and everything was installed, oriented, checked, and tightened up and torqued evenly to spec. The springs are seated and the isolators oriented as stock, verified by visible paint marks done prior to disassembly.

We always torque the suspension components at curb to eliminate an artificial ride height. Which is can be done on a drive on lift

The rear should drop approximately one inch. Alway, measure from the center of the wheel hub to the wheel opening,for best results.

Plus, make sure the vehicle is on a flat surface.

Thanks,

Steeda tech
I did the install on my two post lift using tripod jacks to support the subframe where loosened, I never loosened the control arm mounting bolts or any other suspension components other than the upper shock mount, so there's no way that could induce an abnormal torque on the mounts affecting ride height. Anyway the springs sit nice and even side to side and the car went right back to its previous alignment which was done with the subframe alignment sleeves installed, so I don't have reason to suspect an installation related issue.

I'll take some pics in the shop tonight or tomorrow morning and measurements from hub centerline to wheel arch.
 

Norm Peterson

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I did the install on my two post lift using tripod jacks to support the subframe where loosened, I never loosened the control arm mounting bolts or any other suspension components other than the upper shock mount, so there's no way that could induce an abnormal torque on the mounts affecting ride height.
That's at least part of your problem. When you lower the car, any bushing that's bonded to the shell on the outside and to the sleeve on the inside will resist letting the car drop down to the lower ride height. This is the case with virtually all OE rubber suspension bushings. I can't tell you how much this is "holding your car up" because there are too many variables involved (bushing torsional stiffness, previous spring rate,new spring rates at various ride heights, control arm length for starters). Only that it won't settle as low as it would if you'd loosened the OE bushing bolts and retorqued them at the new (lower) ride height.

Anyway the springs sit nice and even side to side and the car went right back to its previous alignment which was done with the subframe alignment sleeves installed, so I don't have reason to suspect an installation related issue.
That it went right back to its previous alignment should have been a clue that you did have an installation issue, since camber and toe normally change as the car is dropped by using "lowering springs".


Norm
 
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aleccolin

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I had the alignment re-checked and it was within spec, I did not mean to imply that none of the values had changed, of course they will if the right height is different, but the changes are symmetrical and the car tracks straight and works perfectly. I understand what you are saying about the torsion on the suspension bushings, but since that is not part of the installation procedure there should be no reason why my results differ from other installations which were performed in the same manner.
 

aleccolin

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Okay I honestly haven't taken any pics of my car since I got it which is insane these days but weirdly i just wasn't compelled to until now. That said and at the risk of looking like a twat I just saw these pics taken by someone else at the Virginia Tech show last weekend and damn if it doesn't look just about right even though most of the time just walking up it still seems to me like it's raked. I guess tomorrow I need to take some measurements and if I have to eat crow at least I'll know the car is right.

However, pretty soon I'll be trying a square setup with 275s on all four corners with 10" wheels and 40mm offset which will change things a bit, basically the same on the rear but more tire height on the front so it'll look more tucked.
IMG_0741.JPG
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Austin552

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Sport Progressives installed yesterday

Ride seems less bumpy and handles much better. No noise at all. Just waiting to settle down a bit before the 4 wheel alignment.

Before and after:











 

Austin552

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I will get a better side shot after it settles down. The fender gap looks even now where it was larger in the front before.

Before


After
 
 




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