I would look at the shocks, im dont know that much about suspension but it seems more of a rebound issue in the shock. but i think depending on the size of the bump and speed, it would be expected. like if you hit a speed bump around a turn at 40mph youre going to experiences some bump steer lol
Just a heads-up, it's more of a press adapter than a standalone tool. You still need a press of some sort.
Yep sorry that's what I meant. When I had toe toe link bearings done the shop had to fuss around and make an adapter up.
So do you think the change has been because of more rebound in the Konis? Makes sense. More rebound pushing the tires back into the ground more effectively and promptly.
I have the ford racing springs with linear (BMR handling) and it still does it. No oscillation in my car which I think the steeda shock mounts help out with. Can I ask why you have changed your mind about the RLCA bearings? I remember reading your initial impressions and you were really happy with the change. Is it a matter of not doing enough spirited driving to reap the benefits of the bearing to justify the additional NVH? Not being facetious, just curious. NVH is a very subjective topic and people have different tolerance to it so it's always interesting to hear other people's perspective.
Less compression damping, more rebound. Rebound is adjustable, compression isn't. Both were the right change for my setup.
I think I'm going to have to give these Koni's a go!
I don't disagree with your methodology here, but I do disagree that the bearing causes binding. I have the stock vertical links (see zero reason to change them out), but everything else is bearings. With the sway bar disconnected and the spring/shock removed, the whole assembly moved from stop to stop buttery smooth. No binding at all whatsoever. My guess is that you will get the best results swapping out your struts/shocks with something different. The reading I've done on those Ford Performance shocks and struts is that they are only incrementally above the stock PP struts and shocks, which are woefully underdamped. :shrug:
I have the BMR LCA bushings, high-durometer vertical links, and FRPP knuckle-to-toe bushings -- I don't have ANY other suspension mods... YET. I can tell you that wheel hop has been reduced, and that the rear seems more planted -- other than that I don't have additional bounciness. I may do the steel insert-only option from BMR since this is a street-driven car, and mostly always will be. In some instances people have had interference with sloppy welds on the cradle from the "cups" supplied in the BMR lockout kit -- not a reflection of something wrong with the BMR strategy or kit -- just saying that some have had issues. I'll probably go with BMR springs at some point -- not sure if I'll change out the dampers or not -- I've heard good things about the SP089 front, and SP082 rear combined with the stock Performance Pack dampers (not sure if they have the "0" in the part number - Kelly may chime in) -- [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] Kelly has reported on several threads that the bigger issues occur when you combine stiffening the cradle and the differential together -- do either one individually, and things are still happily streetable, but together there can be a big uptick in NVH -- one guy reported that he almost got thrown off the road, rear-end first after hitting a bump. He had just had the cradle dropped out, and all the bushings replaced: cradle, diff, etc. It's like BMR says in the second post of this thread.