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QuickJack Question and Decision help

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racer24crm

racer24crm

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Welp, looks like the new models of the 5000/7000TL have a longer minimum jacking point of 37". Steeda rails are 35". My options are to either by a new set of the longer steeda rails or just remove them entirely and utilize the pinch rails. Leaning more towards the pinch rails. I can't find the old model for sale anywhere.
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Brian_S550

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Got it. Didn't think the short rails would have enough length to keep the car stable in the QuickJack Nice to know that it will all tie together. I know the new model has a longer minimum distance so I will have to make sure that it will work with the rails but it sounds like it will be good to go.
Definitely not an issue, the β€œbox” where you can set the rubber lift blocks and slide them around to fit against the car above is a perfect distance apart for any S550. I’ve lifted both my old coupe and my current convertible in the same way- no stability issues even considering the fact their weight distribution is different.

The shorter QJ model is exactly the right size to fit our Mustangs. Judging from the length difference between them, the longer one would barely fit on the ground under the rocker panel without hitting either tire on that side.
 

Brian_S550

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Welp, looks like the new models of the 5000/7000TL have a longer minimum jacking point of 37". Steeda rails are 35". My options are to either by a new set of the longer steeda rails or just remove them entirely and utilize the pinch rails. Leaning more towards the pinch rails. I can't find the old model for sale anywhere.
Removing the jacking rails isn’t necessary. With those wide rubber blocks you can use the chassis pinch rails and/or jacking rail together as a contact area without any concerns. Do NOT stack two blocks together though, the car will have a bit too much movement and you won’t want to risk getting underneath it.
 
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Brian_S550

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Here, found pictures of when the car is lifted last time to show you where it is best positioned.
IMG_7458.jpeg
IMG_6046.jpeg
 
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racer24crm

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Here, found pictures of when the car is lifted last time to show you where it is best positioned.
IMG_7458.jpeg
IMG_6046.jpeg
Thanks for the pictures, that gives me a better look at everything. Nice to know I can use the rail for the front blocks and then the pinch welds for the rear blocks. Probably go with a 7000TL so I can lift pretty much everything and it's the same size as the 5000TL.
 

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Looking to buy a QuickJack to use for my '15 GT but I have the original Steeda jack rails (short). I've searched the forum and I can only find info on a QuickJack being used with the longer version. Does anyone know if the the short rails will work with a 5000TL/TLX? Was also looking at the 7000TL to have some more flexibility with other vehicles.

I'm looking to potentially add a Maverick to the stable so if one is compatible with both that would be ideal.

Any info you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated.
I just bought the Quickjack 5000TLX for my '18 GT Vert and it works great with the Steeda short jacking rails. Of course, it would work without the rails, but it's a lot quicker to setup with the rails. It allowed me to upgrade my vertical links with relative ease. That lower bolt on those vertical links is still a real MF though. Lol...
 

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racer24crm

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I just bought the Quickjack 5000TLX for my '18 GT Vert and it works great with the Steeda short jacking rails. Of course, it would work without the rails, but it's a lot quicker to setup with the rails. It allowed me to upgrade my vertical links with relative ease. That lower bolt on those vertical links is still a real MF though. Lol...
Interesting, I would have thought for sure the TLX would be too long. If that can work than a 7000TL should have no problems.
 

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Interesting, I would have thought for sure the TLX would be too long. If that can work than a 7000TL should have no problems.
I bought the 7000TL to use on my Ram pickup, and it works great with the Mustang too. You won't have any issues if you go that route.
 

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I bought a set of 7000TL's in January and love them, best investment I've made so far. I'm using them to do a clutch swap right now and they are very stable and I love that you can easily raise and lower them. I'm lowered on Steeda Min drop springs and I have their jacking rails, I bought that stuff in 2019.

I have to use a short rubber block in the front as the tall one doesn't fit, and a taller one in the rear. But I also have the stop the hop kit, so I use the taller block in the rear to make sure that the bracket for the IRS braces clears the jack and doesn't scratch them up.

I grabbed the 7000TL's so I could use them on my F150 and my wife's Flex. I can't say enough good things about them. Also, make sure you read the directions carefully, when I set mine up, they leaked fluid out of all of the fittings, if you use the liquid stuff they include, it needs 24 hours to cure. I redid all of mine with thread tape and they were perfect after that.
 

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I bought a set of 7000TL's in January and love them, best investment I've made so far. I'm using them to do a clutch swap right now and they are very stable and I love that you can easily raise and lower them. I'm lowered on Steeda Min drop springs and I have their jacking rails, I bought that stuff in 2019.

I have to use a short rubber block in the front as the tall one doesn't fit, and a taller one in the rear. But I also have the stop the hop kit, so I use the taller block in the rear to make sure that the bracket for the IRS braces clears the jack and doesn't scratch them up.

I grabbed the 7000TL's so I could use them on my F150 and my wife's Flex. I can't say enough good things about them. Also, make sure you read the directions carefully, when I set mine up, they leaked fluid out of all of the fittings, if you use the liquid stuff they include, it needs 24 hours to cure. I redid all of mine with thread tape and they were perfect after that.
Nice. I also have the Steeda rear subframe braces on mine. Nice to know they can be worked around. So the blocks in the rear don't touch the IRS sub frame braces at all? Does the car sit at an angle on the QJ since you use the two different blocks?

My car is stock height so I think I'd be able to use the taller blocks up front.
 

frestylmotox01

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It does sit on a slight angle, but it’s not noticeable to me at all. You could probably get away with tall front and rear and be fine. If I had 1/4 of an inch more height I could fit the tall ones in front.
 

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I can answer that, once the jack is full down, keep the down button depressed, count to 10/20, pressure is natural.

Natural pressure will allow easy, no hassle connecting and disconnect.


OP be sure you check the ram assist cylinder air pressure before using, it will leak down over time, its a given.

Its purpose, after the car is on the ground collapses the jacks, to full close. Best advice watch the QJ assembly ytube clip explains some of these things visually.


Yeah, I did a pump cart also repurposed mechanic seat

IMG_0272.jpeg
finished
IMG_0881.jpeg
How do you keep your rubber blocks in place when the jacks are hung up? Did you paint the pump or is that a replacement? Really clean lol mine have foot prints on it from me stepping on them. that crappy assist system that never fully lowers the jacks even after i attacked them with grease and zerg fittings...
 

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I've tried a few different things, none work very well. I leave them on the pump cart, long story short.
 

Joe H

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This thread caught my attention because I was considering buying a QuickJack for my '22, but a while back I found a scary story about one side suddenly kicking out on a guy. Do you guys with experience with these have any safety concerns? Do you feel "comfy" working on the car with them? Do you take any additional measures?
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