Problems with my Power Pack 2

[Threebanger]

Ditch your spring and us the no lift. Works great once you brave it and leave your foot down. If you limp foot either you'll get the bucking/bogging.

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[Crossroads]

Steeda spring is worth the $15 IMO. you'll still have to get your foot off the clutch between shifts.

 

[sr1200]

That's how you drive a manual.
Unless 1st gear you don't need to slip the clutch when changing gear.

But... this would insinuate that I need to keep my foot completely OFF the gas until I release the clutch. Doesn't seem logical. I should already be applying throttle.

My method:

1st, begin releasing clutch, apply throttle, complete clutch release, increase throttle to near redline..

Depress clutch fully, simultaneously take foot off gas, shift into 2nd... quickly (but not instantly) release clutch, SIMULTANEOUSLY apply throttle. accelerate hard to near redline

Repeat.


But from what you're saying, when I approach redline in first, I should:

depress clutch, remove foot off gas, shift, release clutch, and ONLY THEN apply throttle.

really?

 

[white15gt]

Have you tried contacting Ford Performance for an explanation? There is a phone number (800-367-3788) you can call AND a chat system...

If you are above 75% throttle, and above 5,000RPM No-Lift Shift will enable. That holds the RPM at the proper point for you to shift into the next gear, without taking your foot off the throttle. If you do not want to engage No-Lift shift, you need to make sure that you are not on the clutch AT ALL when those 2 conditions are met. You can not apply throttle until the clutch is all the way engaged. In any car, you don't want to be back on the throttle while the clutch isn't fully engaged...That is just slipping the clutch, burring it up faster. If you are quick enough on the pedals, there is no need to roll back on the throttle when the clutch isn't in all the way...

 

[ChitownStang]

No lift shift sucks in my opinion, FP should of put on/off switch for it.
2 engagement points on clutch and people with lighter clutch spring have more issues
When you are shifting fast your foot is still slightly resting on clutch and it's easy to accidentally engage nls

 

[Kong76]

But... this would insinuate that I need to keep my foot completely OFF the gas until I release the clutch. Doesn't seem logical. I should already be applying throttle.

My method:

1st, begin releasing clutch, apply throttle, complete clutch release, increase throttle to near redline..

Depress clutch fully, simultaneously take foot off gas, shift into 2nd... quickly (but not instantly) release clutch, SIMULTANEOUSLY apply throttle. accelerate hard to near redline

Repeat.


But from what you're saying, when I approach redline in first, I should:

depress clutch, remove foot off gas, shift, release clutch, and ONLY THEN apply throttle.

really?

I have never driven a stick this way. I always roll into the throttle at the last bit of clutch release in every gear. First is a bit more roll obviously but I have never let the clutch out foot off and then get back on the gas. Seems like to much shock to the system. Never had a clutch go out as well.

 

[Rustang]

Agree with others on the no lift shift feature causing it. Literally kicks in if you depress the clutch a mm. It's awesome if you are ripping gears fast but if you are just being spirited and are the slightest bit lazy on your shift or touch the clutch in anticipation of a shift if kicks in and stumbles and you feel stupid. I wish it had a disable mode because I would like to be able to turn it off.

 

[keiths2kgt]

If you want to return your car to stock after running the pp2 is it just a couple of hoses you need then you're good?

 

[Braski]

Agree with others on the no lift shift feature causing it. Literally kicks in if you depress the clutch a mm. It's awesome if you are ripping gears fast but if you are just being spirited and are the slightest bit lazy on your shift or touch the clutch in anticipation of a shift if kicks in and stumbles and you feel stupid. I wish it had a disable mode because I would like to be able to turn it off.

I haven't experienced any of this with the original or revised tune.:shrug:

 

[BenGTPP]

This is 100% the no lift shift. If the clutch pedal is depressed at all it will stutter. 3.73 gears make this more apparent as higher RPM range when up shifting. You can check your clutch switch engagement by pushing the clutch in while using cruise control. It will give you an idea of where the switch activation point is.

 

[sr1200]

Thanks ALL for your excellent feedback! Really, I have been on a lot of forums, and I've RARELY seen so many people jump in with actual, contextual feedback like this!

I didn't get the chance to FULLY test this out today, but I will tomorrow and will report back. Like Kong76 I've always rolled into the clutch just a *tiny* bit in every gear, or at least 1/2/3. Feels too harsh to do otherwise, but I tried it a little today and no stumble getting on it into 4th. Will try a real launch tomorrow and see if it's "fixed".

This is really too bad, as others have said. I don't really want to "launch" all the time, but if I'm just having a little fun, like Rustang said I engage it accidentally and it all goes to crap.

Again, THANKS TO ALL! I'll for sure become a regular member here, you guys are great. I'll report back when I test it out.

 

[Kong76]

If you want to return your car to stock after running the pp2 is it just a couple of hoses you need then you're good?

I was just contemplating this. I do not know if you can buy the two stock hoses separately. Never seen part #s. I was thinking of just buying some fuel line and running two separate lines and disconnect the two stock lines and save them for just this reason, going back to stock. Seems rather difficult to resort back once lines are cut without dorman fuel line connectors, straight union barb and maybe some 3/8 fuel line. Trying to run that line under the intake manifold looks tricky as well.


Update: it looks like one of the evap hoses you need to cut in front of the engine cover that is wrapped up with another hose are actually combined together with some sort of plastic wafer contact lens looking thing. I peeled the wrap off and saw it. I have no clue would need to be ordered to replace that stock hose.

 

[tedj101]

You must make sure to lift your foot off the clutch before getting into the gas at high rpm shifting. Or you leave you leave the accelerator floored during your clutch and shift but make sure you're above 5k rpm or you will red line it. It's very difficult to have your brain and feet do a no lift shift in my opinion

I agree. I've been shifting normally for far too long to switch to this new fangled method. I also had a bit of a learning curve to keep my foot off the clutch in quick up/down shift situations on the track. But even this old goat managed to learn. I've had the PP2 for about 10 months now and love it!

<TED>

 

[sr1200]

Steeda spring is worth the $15 IMO. you'll still have to get your foot off the clutch between shifts.

I'm back. on this Steeda spring, I *thought* you were talking about the actual clutch spring, but I checked Steedas site, I guess it's just the pedal return spring. Right? You really like it?

 

[Rustang]

I never thought the stock pedal feel was bad but on an order I needed $10 more to get fee shipping so I threw one in to see what all the fuss was about. Honestly didn't do much for me, added a smidge of effort to the pedal but about the same as stock in feel to me.

On a side note I would not recommend going springless. The clutch may not return all the way to the top without one which I have heard of people having issues with it causing the no lift to trigger and their car stumbles everytime they get on it.

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