Need help!! Crank Threads

[Tmason]

I was doing OPG and install and pulling on my ATI balancer with the mmr install bolt the motor started to turnover so i swapped to the factory bolt. Threaded it in a few threads and attempted to keep going. Long story short it stripped the crank threads and I don't know what to do.....I'm thinking of trying to find a chase and see if I can fix it. I'm not sure what to use however.

I really don't want to have to pull my motor.

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[turbofiveoh]

You can run a tap through it to see if you can clean up the threads enough to get the bolt in there and torqued. Chances are that won't work. Your best bet is to use a time-sert (stronger than a helicoil) and repair the damaged threads.

When you get the crank threads fixed use a long reach balancer installer tool to install the balancer.

 

[Rodeheaver]

We see this all the time with ATI balencers. I hate to say it buy you may be up poop creek. The very last thing you can try is to go to the next size larger american or metric tap and get an aftermarket or custom crank pulley bolt.

 

[Tmason]

Little update I was able to line the threads back up and can thread the MMR install bolt and factory bolt back in fairly easily.

I have a new arp bolt coming as the threads have a slight nick on my current one. I will get a proper installer and give it another shot once I have everything ready.

 

[Rodeheaver]

Good luck man, I hope you get it.

 

[sigintel]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2022344&highlight=Ati#post2022344

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1934867&highlight=Fastenal#post1934867

 

[Draklia]

Good luck man, I hope you get it.

X2! Can’t imagine how I’d feel when the bolt started to give.

 

[v8ter]

Why does nobody warn about this? Seems that the ati damper are tighter and there should be an easy write up on how to do this correctly

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

Always antiseise the hub! It helps it slide on much easier and also keeps it from locking itself to the crank snout down the road if you remove it.

 

[Slamdcoop0428]

But if after the antiseize doesnt help it slide on you might need a machine shop to bore it out a tiny bit. It even says that in the ATI instructions. And always pull a crank pulley on with a threaded rod tool!!

 

[turbofiveoh]

Why does nobody warn about this? Seems that the ati damper are tighter and there should be an easy write up on how to do this correctly

The safest way to install any balancer is to use a balancer installation tool. While running the installer down with a bolt is an accepted, and sometimes factory, method of installing the balancer there is always a risk of damaging the crankshaft threads, especially if the balancer is tight on the snout. A better option is to use a harmonic balancer installation tool.

For the coyote engine a long reach balancer tool is required due to the recessed threads in the crank. This tool (OEM Tool PN 24442) can be rented free of charge at most large chain auto parts stores.

The tool consists of a dual thread bolt, a bearing, a nut, and somtimes some washers. [see attached image]

To use the tool:
1) Identify the bolt in the balancer tool kit with the correct threads for the Coyote crankshaft
2) Take the nut from the installation kit and thread the nut all the way to the head of the bolt that you identified in the previous step
3) The the bearing from the installation kit and place it in front of the nut so that what you start to turn the nut away from the head of the bolt it will push the bearing [see attached image]
4) Apply anti-sieze to the inside of the balancer where it will be riding on the crank snout
5) Push the balancer on the snout of the crank by hand with the woodruff key lined up with the keyway slot in the balancer
6) Insert the appropriate balancer tool installation bolt, with nut and bearing in place, through the balancer and into the crankshaft until threads bottom. There is no need to get the bolt extremely tight, just get it snug. In most cases finger tight works just fine.
7) If the nut goes into the bolt recess on the balancer before the bearing touches so that you cannot get a tool on the nut use large washers between the face of the balancer and the bearing so that the nut can be turned.
8) Turn the nut until the bearing completely presses the balancer into place.
9) Remove the balancer install bolt and install the crank bolt and washer
10) Torque the crank bolt to spec

The advantage to using the installer tool is that the bolt is completely seated in the crank and the force of pressing the balancer on is evenly distributed between all of the crank threads and there is no rotational torque on the crank that would cause the engine to turn. I was able to fully seat my ATI balancer, which was tight fitting, with the trans in neutral and with no plugs in the engine.
Another advantage is that you can "feel" how the balancer is moving on the crank snout. If there is any unusual resistance you can quickly pull the balancer back off and start over as the balancer may be going on slightly crooked.

In my opinion, with this tools so easily available, there is no reason to risk damaging your crank threads by using the crank bolt to install the balancer. I have done this both ways and after using an installer tool I will never use the crank bolt to install a balancer, even if the FSM indicates to do so. It's not worth the risk.

Hope that helps.

 

[Tmason]

I knew i shouldn't have taken a shortcut and tried using an install bolt. Having a installer is the correct way to go and it's just another lesson learned.

Seeing people have success with a bolt makes it seem like no big deal but the risk isn't worth the reward in my eyes. I would advise anyone to not use a bolt when messing with the damper. Losing your crank threads just isn't worth risking.

I rented a long reach installer from auto zone just to get a feel for my threads with a fresh bolt. Everything feels pretty good to me and I can run it in over an inch so I think I may have gotten lucky and it might turn out alright.

When I go to try again I'll anti seize it up (used oil at first) and maybe put the damper in the oven at 200 degrees or so to try and loosen it up. Not sure if that can damage the ati internals or not?

Anyways I'm still waiting on a new ARP bolt before I begin and I leave for Alaska for 2 weeks on Tuesday so I probably won't have at it for awhile with the holiday weekend.

I appreciate everyone's advice and hope anyone doing this doesn't use a bolt it's not worth it!

 

[Tommy V]

Use a heat gun and warm the damper up a good bit,that along with the crank snout being cold because of the temps outside right now and it will go on easier.

 

[ahl395]

I'm not arguing that the install tool is not better and safer, but I've installed two balancers using the bolt method without issue.

The trick is to heat the balancer. The heat slightly expands the metal so that it gives you more clearance and will slide on easy. I bought a small propane torch to heat the balancer up nice and hot, oil the threads/snout, and it goes right on. Heat gun is a second option too. Whether you're using a bolt or an install tool I'd recommend heat.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Man, I hope you can fix her.....

Anytime I install one I use the following method.
1) Heat balancer in oven
2) Use an installing tool (the long long threaded rod)
3) Dry ice on crank snout.

They almost literally go on without effort.


As far as removing, thats the part I always hate.... grrrrrr

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