Jmeo's "Take 2" 2017 Auto Build

[Jmeo]

Wow! What a valuable contribution you have made to the Mustang mod community. thank you so much. I am ordering a 2018MY as soon as can be done. Going to mod it into a 950HP street/1-2 mile airport trach run monster. Confirmed this week that (a) American Racing Headers complete exhaust system will fit the 2018 car; (b) MRR wheels (the M350 and their new M600) will fit it; and (c) Whipple will have a new SC that works with the dual fuel injection found on the 2018 car.

Thank you for kind words. I thought about an 18' but I didn't wanna wait for it and all the aftermarket to catch up. I'm pretty sure if AR exhaust will fit that means the heads mate to exhaust the same way so all exhausts should still work so that's good news. Aftermarket weels should be the same offering as we have now which is nice. Yup, team Whipple are working on converting everything for the new motor. It will be very interesting to see how this new motor responds to FI

Where did you get the floor mats?

fitmycar.com and I got the middle of the road version and an am happy with them.

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[gjpundsack]

Thanks. They do look good. I'll use them.

 

[GT_Tommy]

Incredible build all around! Definitely one of the most thorough and well thought out. Can't wait to see that shiny red 2.9 to tie it all together

 

[Jmeo]

Incredible build all around! Definitely one of the most thorough and well thought out. Can't wait to see that shiny red 2.9 to tie it all together

Thank you :cheers:

 

[Roh92cp]

Yeah I have to agree Jamie's build is one of the best I've ever seen, great parts pictures and comentary on everything. Always looking forward to your next step.

 

[Jmeo]

Today I got around to installing these beauties and thought I'd post my experience. The directions are pretty accurate but I just wanted to mention what I did to get these installed.



Few suggestions.

1. I would start on the drivers side as it is the hardest of the two because of the fuel tank filling hose that runs EXACTLY in the way :frusty: This way when your done with this side you can be relieved the harder of the two sides will be done.

2. Although this can be done without dropping the subframe as I will show you I would highly recommend doing these at the same time as any other mod you may be doing which drops or lowers it. This would make the process easier but it's not a deal breaker.

3. Unplug the ABS sensor wire from the main harness and cut the wire ties to move or slightly re-route especially on the drivers side as it will be exactly in the way of getting tools in there to get the bracket mounted.

4. I did not, but dropping the exhaust will give you a lot more room to reach up from the diff side of the subframe to get at it.

My first thought was to use my angle finder I had lying around from the old days of having to dial in rear pinion angle. You can pick one of these up on Amazon or even Harbor Freight pretty inexpensively.



I know this will not be "balls on accurate" (if you get the reference ;) ) but it should put things back in the ball park of where it was until I get back to the alignment rack.

Here we go:

1. You will find it easiest to bring the brace in from behind and slide it into place.

2. Drop the top bolt in

3. Put some blue Locktite in the nut

4. Start the nut but leave it loose

Here you can see it not exactly east to get at.



Using a long boxed wrench like this to hold the nut will be the best way to get it in there



You can see how I was able to rest it in place as I reached up from the diff side to start the threads



5. Put the control arm back into position and slide the cam bolt in from the front so the 16mm head is on the forward side of bracket. Take the advice in the directions and loosen the outer upper control arm/knuckle bolt so you can wiggle the arm and slide the cam bolt in easily.

6. Place the rearward camber washer and 18mm nut making sure the orientation of the cam washer matches the one welded to the bolt head.

7. Put the cam bolt at full negative and tighten the nut to 120 ft/lb. Hold the bolt with a 16mm box wrench and in the following pictures you can see I figured out what I felt is the easiest way to get to and tighten the nut with no special swivel extensions needed. As long as you have a few different extensions lying around your in business. I found the three 1/2 extensions on the left of the tape measure was the better length but due to the larger diameter in the spots where they joined together it made getting into the socket a little tougher and when I went to pull them out they came apart in pieces. Not a big deal but the longer one piece extension proved to be easiest.



First put the 18mm deep socket on the nut (If you haven't already, nows the time to re-route the ABS wire ) slide the extension setup of your choice up and over the rearmost portion of the subframe (near muffler) and plug into the socket.





Once the wheels are on and when at the alignment shop there is no better way to get the cam bolt properly IMHO.

8. Tighten the outer upper control arm/knuckle bolt to 76 ft/lb

9. Tighten down the top nut. This is not easy to get to, I found it easiest to use a ratchet wrench from the diff side on top of the subframe. I did not have one but I highly recommend getting a long ratchet wrench that has a flex head this would have been a lot easier I believe. The standard non flex head wrench is short so its tough to get leverage to tighten it. The long flex head would possibly let the handle come down from the top of the subframe between the diff giving the leverage to get it done. I placed a long pryer tip between the nut and the valley of the subframe to stop it from moving as I snugged up the bolt from the top. Once it snugs up you can let go and tighten the bolt down because there nut has teeth on the bottom that eventually bite in and do their job. Tighten this bolt as tight as you can get it, no torque value.

9. Repeat on the other side. The good news is the passenger side is WAY easier to get to not having the fuel tank filler hose in the way.


Well, I am now officially out of parts to install and I am praying this winter storm dropping 14+" doesn't delay my Whipple from delivering Monday :rant::thumbdown:

 

[Roh92cp]

Go Jamie go! Again nice work and detailed instal info

 

[db252]

Nice job Jaime. Your wallet for sure says Bad A$$ Mutha Fu***.

 

[Jmeo]

Go Jamie go! Again nice work and detailed instal info����

Nice job Jaime. Your wallet for sure says Bad A$$ Mutha Fu***.

Thanks guys but the only thing my wallet is saying is " Jesus H.T. Christ put me back!"

 

[Jmeo]

So,,,,,,, this happened today



I was going to wait till after the install to show the picture of my custom painted carbon fiber jackshaft cover but I just couldn't contain myself lol

 

[Roh92cp]

That is a thing of beauty for sure. Can't wait for you to get this car on th road.

 

[Stage_3]

NICE!!!

 

[SoCalTim]

With a blower like that, you need a clear window in your hood so that that blower is always on show (Think Vette C6 ZR1)

 

[angermgmt14]

That is a thing of beauty for sure. Can't wait for you to get this car on th road.

If we keep getting snowstorms every few days we won't see the car until freakin' April. :frusty:
I hope this Feb. isn't like it was a couple of years ago. I've got about 15" the last couple of days and they are saying another 8"-12" by Monday afternoon.

 

[angermgmt14]

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