kgschrader
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2016
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 71
- Reaction score
- 72
- Location
- Magnolia, TX
- Website
- www.spacecitypanteras.com
- First Name
- Kirby
- Vehicle(s)
- 20 GT350R LR217, 2017 Raptor, 20 720S, 71 Pantera
That routing makes sense based on the other information.Kirby,
Ford (dealer) tells me there is one big harness for the aft end and it will plug into both sides. I believe this to be true. The two wires from the LH side and the two wires from the RH side all come into C405 (the connector attached to the evap; also the L/R exhaust solenoid wires come through C405 (and a ground wire)).
The harness that leads to C405 (on evap), comes through the trunk at the very back. Unscrew the four strap/tie down anchors, pull the trim bottom fwd, and then pull up. You'll see the harness penetrating the floor. The temp sensor harness comes down the left side and then, I'm guessing, goes under the back seat and through the floor.
I just connected all the leads from C264 and C215 to the pump and heated the sensor to 232F and the pump did not start. I am going to post in the diff cooler thread. Majorly disappointed.
Trouble is, that's a $500 harness from what I've seen...
As for the pump starting, did you have it hooked up prior to starting the car? Everything I've read about the PWM circuits seems to indicate that when the car is first started, the pump gets a full on signal to get it started, then it will go to the modulated state.
I've read that the pump will have too much initial startup 'friction' and won't just gradually turn on.
So, a further experiment would be to wire everything up like you had it, then start the car. I don't know that this works, just suggesting based on other information I've read. After all, it has one pin called RUN/START. Seems to hint at the above, also.
Good luck!
Kirby
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