Built Blocks -

[trippleyelo]

Yes

Thank you SIR

I was on inquiring when hit low ten's I have spare block ,and cross my fingers keep her on meth.lol

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[MiDiablo]

Yes

Thank you SIR

I was on inquiring when hit low ten's I have spare block ,and cross my fingers keep her on meth.lol

So far have only gotten back to the track on low boost, no juice. Already got her to go 1.6s again, 7.50s again, and that was an 11.80 pass. Looking forward to being able to turn up the boost this weekend and having some good boost weather, too. We'll see how it goes!

 

[Woodshop77]

Back from the dead. Car running finally. First datalog run on dyno with zero modded/no tune netted 304 RWHP on new internals. Will be sending datalog out for new base tune. Post again soon.

 

[wsfrazier]

Ended up going with an Esslinger build myself. Should be hitting the engine dyno next week for break in and testing, then shipped to my local shop for install.

 

[Woodshop77]

What did you have them do?

 

[wsfrazier]

Fairly mild long block build, stock block and head. Rods, pistons, balance shaft delete, ARP main and head studs. Heat treated crank and keyed for gear+balancer. The head and block are factory new. I'm sure there are a few more little things they do, but that is the gist of it. I got a great deal since the motor was for another customer that dropped out of the sale.

My goal is only about 500HP reliably on E85. Probably go with the turbonetics/precision drop in turbo to pair with the motor.

 

[Woodshop77]

Thats pretty much what I did. If you can catch them before the mill work is complete you should have them weld the area around the studs where it is weak.

 

[wsfrazier]

The block was already done before I bought it since it was for a prior customer. It's fully assembled and just waiting for the engine dyno before shipping. Not going to bust it back open.

It was brought up, but they said they don't like doing that if they aren't doing a full sleeve job. What he said, since it distorts everything too much to run without machining everything afterwards.

I won't be trying to extreme power levels. Just want a 10.99 pass without tossing a rod. Smaller drop in turbo will get me where I want.

 

[MiDiablo]

The block was already done before I bought it since it was for a prior customer. It's fully assembled and just waiting for the engine dyno before shipping. Not going to bust it back open.

It was brought up, but they said they don't like doing that if they aren't doing a full sleeve job. What he said, since it distorts everything too much to run without machining everything afterwards.

I won't be trying to extreme power levels. Just want a 10.99 pass without tossing a rod. Smaller drop in turbo will get me where I want.

I hope you're right.

Wasn't accurate in my case.

Car went 11.60's on relatively low boost (for this platform and my setup), no juice, and cracked the block right down the side.

 

[jrock]

I hope you're right.

Wasn't accurate in my case.

Car went 11.60's on relatively low boost (for this platform and my setup), no juice, and cracked the block right down the side.

Was your engine built by Esslinger?

 

[MiDiablo]

Was your engine built by Esslinger?

Negative.

 

[wsfrazier]

Did a rod let go and help push a crack through the block?

Out of curiosity, what kind of 60's were you getting to run an 11.60? I am cutting 1.6x usually, and still can't do better than 12.0@112. Seems like Adam is sand bagging my tune to keep the motor in one piece.

EDIT: Nevermind I see you were on the vargas, I am still on stock turbo.

It's a risk I realize I am taking, however I wasn't willing to go full out sleeved block for a daily driver. I would get a dedicated track car if I wanted to go that in depth. I only got the motor cause of the nice discount I got. My factory motor is 100% fine, and it will sit in storage as my backup in case something happens. Esslinger didn't need a core in my case.

 

[articrandom]

Question, and I can move this to its own thread if needed, but my bumper to bumper warranty is expiring in July and I am probably going to tune it so if the block cracks (which it will it seems with pretty much any tune) I will probably be out of warranty.
I was considering the FP tune but since I heard that my powertrain warranty will expire with my BtoB then I don't see the point of going with it.

So I was trying to figure out what is the best approach to avoid an ecoboom or any cracks as it seems that the block and its open design seems to be the weak point. What would be he best way and affordable method to get a built block that can safely handle DD tasks and weekly spirited driving with a tune and that won't crack? How difficult is it to replace a cylinder block at home?

 

[Woodshop77]

Get a full sleeved short block

 

[wsfrazier]

To throw it out there, I have been daily driving and weekend racing mine on factory motor, tuned on full E85 for 30k miles and still running strong. I've ran events like Hot Rod Drag week and beat the crap out of the car with countless passes, as well as on the street. Still no issues.

Don't assume it will blow just cause.

If money isn't an issue, sleeve the block and just get it over with. Motor will never be a cause for worry again. However, the deal I got was about the most I was willing to spend on a daily driver before I would just get a dedicated track car.

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