2016 GT Premium with 9 speaker system - it just keeps on giving

[Evolvd]

With all the wind, road and engine noise, I never u der stood the point of trying for more than 128kbit mp3 resolution which the human ear can't process anyway. Isn't the music just there to occupy/distract the brain so it doesn't go way off script or comatose?

I've sampled the 6, 9 and 12 options and find the highs are so strong they give me a headache. The 6 has an embarrassingly weak bass, I'll cop to that. I turn off speed volume and almost never exceed volume 12.

Ru guys really slathering the cabin with sound mat?

You absolutely can tell the difference between 128kb mp3 and hi-res audio. And yes, lots of sound deadener. My car, my money, my concern

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[Evolvd]

You know, I really do like the rumble of the Mustang's exhaust. I should just hum to myself when I want music.

The new tweeters that come as part of the 2 way component set come with crossovers that I thought would filter out the lower frequencies the tweeters don't like but maybe not.

My basic understanding was/is that if I replace like-for-like speakers and retain the OEM amp I should not have an issue with crossovers/frequencies since the oem amp is handling that stuff. And that the real fun starts when you replace the amp where you do have to ensure you are using the right crossovers in the right spots.

Bah, I am just going to finish replacing these garbage/ broken OEM speakers and see how they work with the stock amp. At least they should no longer rattle and buzz.

The non-Sony stock stereo in my daughter's 2016 Fusion SE sounds so much better than the 9 speaker stereo in my 2016 Mustang GT premium. Odd that she still keeps asking me if she can take the Mustang to go see her friends, bad stereo and all.

The stock tweeter has resistors built in to block the lower freqs, your aftermarket ones don’t, they are in the crossover network. You could install your two ways but you’ll want to wire the tweeters separately.

 

[Canuckican]

The stock tweeter has resistors built in to block the lower freqs, your aftermarket ones don’t, they are in the crossover network. You could install your two ways but you’ll want to wire the tweeters separately.

Thanks, I appreciate the tips. Some days I really miss my basic red 68 coupe with vinyl bucket seats, a 302 and a 4 speed. With the headers and 4 barrel it would have been lucky to be pushing out 225 hp.

 

[Canuckican]

I have all of the bits and pieces I think I should have but inevitably I am missing something. The weather is supposed to warm up again in another week or so, then I will have at this.

This is to replace the speakers in my 2016 GT Premium with the stock 9 speaker setup. I plan on disconnecting the center speaker. At some point down the road I may add a DSP and an amp but for now my goal is just to replace all of the broken speakers with functional ones.

Please excuse any incorrect terminology. I'm not very experienced with stereo installs, having done exactly one in the past 35 years.

For the rear deck, I have the Infinity Reference REF607FSL 6.5" 2-way speakers and the appropriate Metra wiring harness and mounting brackets. I don't think I need to take any extra steps for crossovers, wiring, etc. when I connect the wire from the original speaker to the replacement speaker.

For the lower door, I will use the woofers from the Focal RSE-165 component speaker system and the appropriate Metra wiring harness and mounting brackets. I don't think I need to take any extra steps for crossovers, wiring, etc.

For the upper door, I will use the Kicker 51KSC2704 2-3/4" mid-range speakers. I think the original mid-range speakers are already bass blocked from the amp but not sure. If not, I will need to do something about that.

For the A-pillar, I will use the tweeters from the Focal RSE-165 component speaker system. I am hoping to be able to use the tweeter wiring I disconnect from the OEM tweeters that comes from the mid-range. Not sure if I need to do anything about a capacitor/crossover/etc.

I'm about 60 pages into the big wiring sticky trying to mine the relevant information for my setup.

 

[Bassackwards]

You need to use the crossover that comes with the tweeters

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

I have all of the bits and pieces I think I should have but inevitably I am missing something. The weather is supposed to warm up again in another week or so, then I will have at this.

This is to replace the speakers in my 2016 GT Premium with the stock 9 speaker setup. I plan on disconnecting the center speaker. At some point down the road I may add a DSP and an amp but for now my goal is just to replace all of the broken speakers with functional ones.

Please excuse any incorrect terminology. I'm not very experienced with stereo installs, having done exactly one in the past 35 years.

For the rear deck, I have the Infinity Reference REF607FSL 6.5" 2-way speakers and the appropriate Metra wiring harness and mounting brackets. I don't think I need to take any extra steps for crossovers, wiring, etc. when I connect the wire from the original speaker to the replacement speaker.

For the lower door, I will use the woofers from the Focal RSE-165 component speaker system and the appropriate Metra wiring harness and mounting brackets. I don't think I need to take any extra steps for crossovers, wiring, etc.

For the upper door, I will use the Kicker 51KSC2704 2-3/4" mid-range speakers. I think the original mid-range speakers are already bass blocked from the amp but not sure. If not, I will need to do something about that.

For the A-pillar, I will use the tweeters from the Focal RSE-165 component speaker system. I am hoping to be able to use the tweeter wiring I disconnect from the OEM tweeters that comes from the mid-range. Not sure if I need to do anything about a capacitor/crossover/etc.

I'm about 60 pages into the big wiring sticky trying to mine the relevant information for my setup.

One thing I highly recommend if you haven’t already, is disable the factory EQ using forscan. Even after you replace all the speakers, it will make a huge difference.

 

[shogun32]

One thing I highly recommend if you haven’t already, is disable the factory EQ using forscan.

Or don't even bother with the speaker exercise.

I've been eyeballing the Ford mount and various kit tweeters and crutchfield caution about needing to hot glue etc.

It seems to me a bit of plastic ring or better yet moderate Shore (square) o ring and washer could be used to adapt into the snap housing.

 

[Evolvd]

Flush mounting tweeters is pretty simple in our cars. Removing and installing the A-pillar is the hardest part.

 

[PoCoBob]

I don't get all the hate for the center speaker. When I replaced my door speakers I replaced the center speaker at the same time. To adjust the settings I set the fade all the way to the back and moved it forward until I could just start hearing the center speaker and that seems to work.

Edit: to remove wrong info

 

[Evolvd]

I don't get all the hate for the center speaker. When I replaced my door speakers I replaced the center speaker at the same time. To adjust the settings I set the fade all the way to the back and moved it forward until I could just start hearing the center speaker and that seems to work. If you use the bluetooth to take calls while you're driving that's the speaker the call comes through on.

The center speaker is a sum of the left and right channels, it’s not a true center and this screws up staging. And you’re wrong about the Bluetooth call, it comes through all the front speakers. How do I know? My center is disconnected.

 

[Bassackwards]

When you add an amp (and you will) you may end up ditching the 3.5s in the door because of too much midrange. I am running Alpine R series 6.5" and R series tweeters and they sound great. I just left the factory 3.5s in the doors to fill the holes but they are disconnected.

Those crossovers are pretty large, I'm not sure they will fit in the A pillars. I put mine in the doors after I abandoned the 3.5s and factory amp.

 

[shogun32]

I just left the factory 3.5s in the doors to fill the holes but they are disconnected.

username checks out.

Since all cars with the 3.5 have amps, don't you mean once you add a DSP?


Also, is it correct that th 9/12 setup the amp has separate wires for the Bass/woofer (with highs already clipped) and drives the mid+tweet set of wires with the rest of the signal which the tweeter's in-line additionally filters?

 

[Bassackwards]

username checks out.

Since all cars with the 3.5 have amps, don't you mean once you add a DSP?


Also, is it correct that th 9/12 setup the amp has separate wires for the Bass/woofer (with highs already clipped) and drives the mid+tweet set of wires with the rest of the signal which the tweeter's in-line additionally filters?

I did mine all at once. I abandoned the factory amp and the amp to 3.5" wiring. I fed power to the 6.5s, jumped off them through the crossover, then to the 3.5" wires so that I could feed the tweeters. It works.

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