2016 GT Premium with 9 speaker system - it just keeps on giving

[Canuckican]

I have thoroughly documented my fun times with my 2016 GT Premium named Oliver. With all the other things I've already had to deal with (and now largely have sorted), I had never really used the stereo to any extent. Today was the day to change that and at least get Android Auto going so I used Maps while I was out running some errands. That part was all fine. However, when I switched over to trying to listen to some actual music at a low volume level, the sound was nothing short of pitiful. It reminded me of my 2015 F150 Sport before I upgraded the speakers and installed a good 4 channel amp. Night and day difference.

It sounds like the speaker on the driver side rear deck is blown as are at least one of the speakers in each door. Based on what I see on Crutchfield's site, the lower door speakers are woofers and the upper ones are mid-range. I don't know how easy it is to blow the speakers using a bone-stock head unit but something happened to them. They just buzz and crackle when the volume is above anything more than background music level. I'm not terribly tweaked by this because I already planned on upgrading the speakers and adding an amp but geesh, can nothing on this spawn of Satan "Mint Auto Sales of Orlando Florida" car not work properly? I just hope the factory head unit's audio output hardware is not foo-barred. I don't fancy having to replace the head unit plus another $$$$ for the installation kit.

Looks like the rear deck speakers are commonly replaced with 2-ways. Not sure what the best approach is for the separate mid-range and woofers in each door. I also want to sort out the amp at the same time (4 or 6 channel etc) so it'll all work well together. I'm not looking for a stereo-contest winning sound, I just want my Bob Marley to be jamming and my AC/DC to be somewhat thunderstruck.

As an aside, I have a bit of color-blindness and this does bring an extra challenge to the installs. Luckily my daughters are great helpers and they act as my quality control team for wire connections before any soldering or permanent connections take place.

I expect I will find a lot of good setup information on this board so spelunking I will go.

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[Evolvd]

You have a lot of options but replacing just the speakers won’t do much for you. Crap in equals crap out so until you decide to run an aftermarket amp and Forscan out the stock EQ you won’t really see a significant change. There’s a couple huge threads on upgrading the 9 speaker setup so I’d start there.

And ignore Crutchfield, they have great shipping and returns, but their fitment knowledge is lacking.

 

[Canuckican]

You have a lot of options but replacing just the speakers won’t do much for you. Crap in equals crap out so until you decide to run an aftermarket amp and Forscan out the stock EQ you won’t really see a significant change. There’s a couple huge threads on upgrading the 9 speaker setup so I’d start there.

And ignore Crutchfield, they have great shipping and returns, but their fitment knowledge is lacking.

I've been getting lots of great info on both what to do and not do from the various threads.

When I replaced the OEM speakers on my F150 with a pair of Alpine SPE-6000 and a pair of Alpine S-S65C speakers, I quickly found out that it was pointless to do it without also adding a good quality amp and/or head unit. I ended up adding a Kicker 46CXA360.4T amp and it made a huge difference. So this time on the Mustang I am doing the speakers and amp at the same time. Having at least three blown OEM speakers just seals the deal.

 

[joe603]

Check out some of the threads with a system overhaul. A few of us on here have done it successfully. There are some quirky things to know prior to going in.

 

[Bassackwards]

I figured out a way to tie the 6.5s and the tweeters to the same wiring in the door and that made it super easy. In order to do this you must use an aftermarket amp.

 

[Bassackwards]

Interestingly when I did my install I was initially disappointed in the Alpine R series separates. I pulled the door panels back off and installed foam outside the speaker that sealed against the back of the door panel and it made a world of difference.

Now I'm seeing some install packages that have begun to include this foam to seal off this area.

I'm tackling my F150 soon after the weather warms and intend to seal this area too.

Everyone knows to seal the back but the front was new to me.

 

[Evolvd]

Interestingly when I did my install I was initially disappointed in the Alpine R series separates. I pulled the door panels back off and installed foam outside the speaker that sealed against the back of the door panel and it made a world of difference.

Now I'm seeing some install packages that have begun to include this foam to seal off this area.

I'm tackling my F150 soon after the weather warms and intend to seal this area too.

Everyone knows to seal the back but the front was new to me.

Even the stock Mustang speakers have foam on the front to seal to the door panels. It make a big difference.

 

[Canuckican]

I have started digging into the broken sound system in my 2016 GT (9 speaker, non-Sony). Regardless of where I set the fade and balance, it sounds horrible. Not a bit sub-standard, it is unusable. I started with the passenger side door. The speaker in there now is shown below. The driver's side lower speaker sounds the same so I expect to find similar speaker damage. I don't see any damage to the mid-range speakers but they do look as cheap as everyone says they do.

I don't plan on investing in a DSP or amp for a few more years because there are other things I want to address first. But I will at least be replacing the rears and lower door speakers. And maybe the upper door mid-range and A-pillar tweeters if it's not too difficult to do. This will hopefully at least allow me to listen to some music at an acceptable volume and clarity (assuming the OEM amplifier is not blown somehow too). Given just how bad the current setup sounds, nothing would surprise me. But I am starting with the speakers because I know they are kaput.

I think I will just stick with something like Kicker 46CSC654 speakers for both the lower doors and rear deck. I've used them before and they are acceptable on a stock powered head unit. Not sure about the mid-range and tweeters. Probably all from Crutchfield since they've been good to me on multiple previous purchases.

 

[Evolvd]

Yeah that’s garbage OEM for ya.

 

[Canuckican]

Hmmm, I have been told that since I have a Lund tune (or any tune for that matter), I can't just go into Forscan and disable the factory EQ. I have to backup the Lund tune first, then make the change in Forscan, then reinstall the Lund tune. That doesn't make much sense to me, but that does not mean it isn't true. Research time...

Then again, I used to have a $500 stereo in a $200 Vega when I was a kid so who knows.

 

[demon67]

I have a Wengard tune and went into Forscan and did the audio hacks. No issues here.

 

[joeyvaz]

I have started digging into the broken sound system in my 2016 GT (9 speaker, non-Sony). Regardless of where I set the fade and balance, it sounds horrible. Not a bit sub-standard, it is unusable. I started with the passenger side door. The speaker in there now is shown below. The driver's side lower speaker sounds the same so I expect to find similar speaker damage. I don't see any damage to the mid-range speakers but they do look as cheap as everyone says they do.

I don't plan on investing in a DSP or amp for a few more years because there are other things I want to address first. But I will at least be replacing the rears and lower door speakers. And maybe the upper door mid-range and A-pillar tweeters if it's not too difficult to do. This will hopefully at least allow me to listen to some music at an acceptable volume and clarity (assuming the OEM amplifier is not blown somehow too). Given just how bad the current setup sounds, nothing would surprise me. But I am starting with the speakers because I know they are kaput.

I think I will just stick with something like Kicker 46CSC654 speakers for both the lower doors and rear deck. I've used them before and they are acceptable on a stock powered head unit. Not sure about the mid-range and tweeters. Probably all from Crutchfield since they've been good to me on multiple previous purchases.

I just swapped out all of my interior speakers this weekend. All purchased from Crutchfield as well. I went with Hertz K165 components (only used the 6.5" for the mid-bass in the lower doors; Hertz DCX 87.3 3.5" for the door mid range; and Hertz MP 25.3 tweeters.

Fitment:
6.5" fit perfectly and Crutchfield sent the Metra mounting brackets and wire harness for free.
3.5" fit even though Crutchfield said they wouldn't. I took the OEM 3.5" out of the mounting bracket, trimmed the hole where the speaker mounts to a little with a Dremel and sanding disk. 5 minute job per side. Then I cut the OEW wires at the 3.5 speaker since no wiring harness is available. Soldered to the new speaker.
Tweeters mounted really well in stock location. A tiny bit of sanding and I was able to get a nice, snug fit. OEM grill pops right out, so I was able to use the Hertz tweeter grill. Looks factory. Again, I had to cut the wires off the OEM tweeter. Here I just used bullet connectors so I can remove easily and return to stock-when the time comes.

Sound: Exponentially better than the OEM speakers-obviously. I now have crisp highs and full mids and mid-bass. BUT, the OEM head unit doesn't have enough power and I can hear clipping when the radio is at around 20-22 on the dial. I have a Dynavin coming in tomorrow that will be installed this week. Hopefully I get more volume without clipping since it supposedly puts out 45w per/ch. We shall see. If I need more output, especially when I install the subs, I have a Soundigital 800.4 on standby.

I did killmat the doors, add foam surrounds, etc. I'm still battling a rattle in the passenger door. I removed the card again and added a super flexible silicon to all the clips, but the rattle remains. Card will be coming off again until I find that SOB.

Next will be dual 12" in a sealed enclosure from ZEnclosures. Subs are Image Dynamics IDQ12v4 and the amp is a Soundigital 1200.1 putting out ~1300w. Should be a nice little setup once the box is delivered and installed.

Stay Tuned...

 

[Canuckican]

I just swapped out all of my interior speakers this weekend. All purchased from Crutchfield as well. I went with Hertz K165 components (only used the 6.5" for the mid-bass in the lower doors; Hertz DCX 87.3 3.5" for the door mid range; and Hertz MP 25.3 tweeters.

This stereo stuff makes my head hurt. I appreciate you posting about what you're up to.

What made you decide to get the separate Hertz MP 25.3 tweeters instead of just using the tweeters that came with the Hertz K165 components?

Knowing myself as I do, I expect it won't be long after installing speakers that actually work that I will be perusing amplifiers and DSPs. At least when I installed the amp in my SuperCrew F150, it has easy access to a very large rear seating area, perfect for installing the amp. But me trying to maneuver my aging 6' 3", 230 pound frame under the dash of the Mustang and also mucking about installing rear speakers is not something I really look forward to doing. I suppose I could hire someone else to do it, but what's the fun/satisfaction in that (except for avoiding the inevitable cuts, aches, cussing, etc)?

 

[Evolvd]

I just swapped out all of my interior speakers this weekend. All purchased from Crutchfield as well. I went with Hertz K165 components (only used the 6.5" for the mid-bass in the lower doors; Hertz DCX 87.3 3.5" for the door mid range; and Hertz MP 25.3 tweeters.

Fitment:
6.5" fit perfectly and Crutchfield sent the Metra mounting brackets and wire harness for free.
3.5" fit even though Crutchfield said they wouldn't. I took the OEM 3.5" out of the mounting bracket, trimmed the hole where the speaker mounts to a little with a Dremel and sanding disk. 5 minute job per side. Then I cut the OEW wires at the 3.5 speaker since no wiring harness is available. Soldered to the new speaker.
Tweeters mounted really well in stock location. A tiny bit of sanding and I was able to get a nice, snug fit. OEM grill pops right out, so I was able to use the Hertz tweeter grill. Looks factory. Again, I had to cut the wires off the OEM tweeter. Here I just used bullet connectors so I can remove easily and return to stock-when the time comes.

Sound: Exponentially better than the OEM speakers-obviously. I now have crisp highs and full mids and mid-bass. BUT, the OEM head unit doesn't have enough power and I can hear clipping when the radio is at around 20-22 on the dial. I have a Dynavin coming in tomorrow that will be installed this week. Hopefully I get more volume without clipping since it supposedly puts out 45w per/ch. We shall see. If I need more output, especially when I install the subs, I have a Soundigital 800.4 on standby.

I did killmat the doors, add foam surrounds, etc. I'm still battling a rattle in the passenger door. I removed the card again and added a super flexible silicon to all the clips, but the rattle remains. Card will be coming off again until I find that SOB.

Next will be dual 12" in a sealed enclosure from ZEnclosures. Subs are Image Dynamics IDQ12v4 and the amp is a Soundigital 1200.1 putting out ~1300w. Should be a nice little setup once the box is delivered and installed.

Stay Tuned...

3.5” pigtails are available from Sounds Good Stereo as are their 6.5 and 3.5 adapter plates…perfect fitment with no trimming and they come with mounting screws, gasket material, and pigtails. Much better quality than the cheap Metra crap.

But, if it works, it works

 

[joeyvaz]

This stereo stuff makes my head hurt. I appreciate you posting about what you're up to.

What made you decide to get the separate Hertz MP 25.3 tweeters instead of just using the tweeters that came with the Hertz K165 components?

Knowing myself as I do, I expect it won't be long after installing speakers that actually work that I will be perusing amplifiers and DSPs. At least when I installed the amp in my SuperCrew F150, it has easy access to a very large rear seating area, perfect for installing the amp. But me trying to maneuver my aging 6' 3", 230 pound frame under the dash of the Mustang and also mucking about installing rear speakers is not something I really look forward to doing. I suppose I could hire someone else to do it, but what's the fun/satisfaction in that (except for avoiding the inevitable cuts, aches, cussing, etc)?

I went with the better tweeters because, just like the amps and subs, I had them from my Ram Rebel sound system. I pulled them when I sold the truck. The tweeters that came with the component set were probably half the size. Mounting them would be more difficult. Not to mention the 25.3s are a much more refined tweeter. So it was a win win for me.

I too am 6'3" 235#. I feel your pain when it comes to crawling around these cars installing systems. But I have a fit, 27 year old son. I make him do all the hard work with my direction-when necessary. He's been my assistant since he was 2 or 3 years old, so he holds his own. Not like most millennials-Thank God. Lol

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