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"Surprise" PP2 Short comings for track use, not easy to remedy

NeverSatisfied

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I looked into the GT350 gauge, its still the same issue to me, its a calculation and not measurement of the oil temp.

"Hacks," Work arounds" some guys love that shit when they buy a car, others, like me just, find it an irritation. Its always less of an irritation when you know stuff going in! (which is the purpose of this post)

I clearly understand the difference between the GT and the GT350, and that the GT, is NOT a track car. I had my list made up when I bought this car, I had allotted $8000 to get it on track. Coolers, suspension mods, Wheels, tires, track pads and rotors (even front street pads of the same formula so I could drive around town without freight train squeal were allotted for in my budget).
PP2 Knuckles/hubs are beefier than standard non mag cars. Leave that alone for now.

Depending on how hard you drive, mishi oil cooler is undersized and not baffled properly.

PP2 is a ferocious car with high mechanical grip = excessive heat very fast. I was regularly in various diff, oil, coolant derate as I sorted through all the cooling on my PP2 in 5-10 minutes.

You will need to throw it all at a PP2 if you want to finish a 20 minute session in 75F+ ambient running reasonably hard at hpde.

If you plan to keep it a streetable car with ac, 8k will just about cover it—but it’ll take “eveything” including redoing your oil cooler with a monster setrab 960. My 660 is just barely adequate and I have baffled the heck out of it.

Like when you’re saying no way it needs this much cooling— that’s just barely enough.

And just fill up every session— half tank fuel starve in left handlers is definitely an issue, Some tracks you can go further. I’ve found Nelson’s Ledges is the most problematic track for both overheat and fuel starvation.
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2morrow

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the more i see stuff like this the more impressed i am with the mach 1.
ford really did pack a lot of goodies in those things.
Agreed. If I could do it all over again I would absolutely choose the M1. Too bad it wasn’t available in November of ‘15 lol
 

2morrow

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PP2 Knuckles/hubs are beefier than standard non mag cars. Leave that alone for now.

Depending on how hard you drive, mishi oil cooler is undersized and not baffled properly.

PP2 is a ferocious car with high mechanical grip = excessive heat very fast. I was regularly in various diff, oil, coolant derate as I sorted through all the cooling on my PP2 in 5-10 minutes.

You will need to throw it all at a PP2 if you want to finish a 20 minute session in 75F+ ambient running reasonably hard at hpde.

If you plan to keep it a streetable car with ac, 8k will just about cover it—but it’ll take “eveything” including redoing your oil cooler with a monster setrab 960. My 660 is just barely adequate and I have baffled the heck out of it.

Like when you’re saying no way it needs this much cooling— that’s just barely enough.

And just fill up every session— half tank fuel starve in left handlers is definitely an issue, Some tracks you can go further. I’ve found Nelson’s Ledges is the most problematic track for both overheat and fuel starvation.
I used to overheat the diff quite a bit running at Thunder Hill. It’s common to be well into the 100’s there.

However after changing the fluid to a high grade product I never overheat anymore. I run 0 diff/trans coolers and drive it hard with no issues.

I even ran it in 107* heat with no problems to the diff/trans. The tires and driver was a different issue though lol
 

NeverSatisfied

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I used to overheat the diff quite a bit running at Thunder Hill. It’s common to be well into the 100’s there.

However after changing the fluid to a high grade product I never overheat anymore. I run 0 diff/trans coolers and drive it hard with no issues.

I even ran it in 107* heat with no problems to the diff/trans. The tires and driver was a different issue though lol
The difference in heat generation running the car at 8/10's and 9.5/10's. Is exponential. The driver is a big x-factor to the cooling equation.

You'll see some wrap the exhaust around the diff, use 140Wt oil and have no issues.

I'm on my 2nd S550. On both, I've had to hack the hood, cut up the fan shroud, big radiator, monster oil cooler, rear diff cooler, water and water wetter, aluminum arts and crafts for radiator and oil cooler inlet ducting, open up the grill, etc. It's taken EVERYTHING to stay out of derate.
 

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The difference in heat generation running the car at 8/10's and 9.5/10's. Is exponential. The driver is a big x-factor to the cooling equation.

You'll see some wrap the exhaust around the diff, use 140Wt oil and have no issues.

I'm on my 2nd S550. On both, I've had to hack the hood, cut up the fan shroud, big radiator, monster oil cooler, rear diff cooler, water and water wetter, aluminum arts and crafts for radiator and oil cooler inlet ducting, open up the grill, etc. It's taken EVERYTHING to stay out of derate.

Same here, pretty much. I have yet to hack my hood or fan shroud (procrastinating). Does that make much of a difference? Quantifiable?

Is your car PP1 or PP2?
 

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NeverSatisfied

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Agreed. If I could do it all over again I would absolutely choose the M1. Too bad it wasn’t available in November of ‘15 lol
I'm not sure on this... That oil cooler is so small, Stock PP radiator, still no hood vents, insufficient radiator ducting.

No doubt the M1 is further ahead to start with, but you're also deeper into the money.

If you're going to really bang on a Mach 1, even a manual, I think you're going to run into some issues requiring attention.
 

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The difference in heat generation running the car at 8/10's and 9.5/10's. Is exponential. The driver is a big x-factor to the cooling equation.

You'll see some wrap the exhaust around the diff, use 140Wt oil and have no issues.

I'm on my 2nd S550. On both, I've had to hack the hood, cut up the fan shroud, big radiator, monster oil cooler, rear diff cooler, water and water wetter, aluminum arts and crafts for radiator and oil cooler inlet ducting, open up the grill, etc. It's taken EVERYTHING to stay out of derate.
It was only a matter of time until this came up and yes, agreed on driving intensity (I typically run with dedicated track/race cars) and I've done the same to divert heat outta the hood.
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I often drive in spurts with a lap or two of warm up, 2-3 hard laps then taper off to cool it down a bit. That has helped dramatically in keeping the car happy. Also limiting time behind another car is critical.
 

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I'm not sure on this... That oil cooler is so small, Stock PP radiator, still no hood vents, insufficient radiator ducting.

No doubt the M1 is further ahead to start with, but you're also deeper into the money.

If you're going to really bang on a Mach 1, even a manual, I think you're going to run into some issues requiring attention.
I SO agree about the M1's oil cooler. Can't possibly be enough for a 30min session on a hot day. Otherwise, it seems like most everything else is (mostly) ready to go.
 

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Same here, pretty much. I have yet to hack my hood or fan shroud (procrastinating). Does that make much of a difference? Quantifiable?

Is your car PP1 or PP2?
I'm running a '21 base GT now. I had a '19 PP2 before the base.

Nothing quantifiable, but immediate improvement in speed and magnitude of temp drops in longer braking zones once off throttle-- like into China Beach at MidO, Turn 17 and PittRace, and into Horse Shoe at VIR.
 

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I'm running a '21 base GT now. I had a '19 PP2 before the base.

Nothing quantifiable, but immediate improvement in speed and magnitude of temp drops in longer braking zones once off throttle-- like into China Beach at MidO, Turn 17 and PittRace, and into Horse Shoe at VIR.
So you check CHT on the back straight brake zone at Mid-Ohio?
 

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Is there a quick hack to turn the rad fans on and keep them on?
 

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Is there a quick hack to turn the rad fans on and keep them on?
Could you hard wire it with a switch in the cabin?

I intentionally stay away from power, So ill have a pro do thatđŸŒ©âšĄ
 

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So you check CHT on the back straight brake zone at Mid-Ohio?
Once I get done my attempt to not mow the grass on exit after my early apex/deep trail brake and start breathing again.. you bet.
 

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Agreed. If I could do it all over again I would absolutely choose the M1. Too bad it wasn’t available in November of ‘15 lol
part of me thinks that but i just added like 20 lbs of sound deadening to the rear of the car so obviously at this point i care more about transforming it into a true GT car rather than a track monster.
 

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part of me thinks that but i just added like 20 lbs of sound deadening to the rear of the car so obviously at this point i care more about transforming it into a true GT car rather than a track monster.
Totally understandable. I would love to own another fun car for street use only but living where I do space/storage is a huge issue.
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