OEM Differential Oil Cooler Install

[Tank]

Anybody get the rear end temp sensor or pump working yet?

I'm close to getting the temp sensor for the diff installed. Just waiting on the two pins for the connector.. I'm gonna wait on the diff cooler kit FP confirmed was pending. BTW, regrading another post you made, activating the diff temp (& the trans temp) display involves changing IPC line 720-06-01 to 7F6D 9664 9EB2.

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[jwb]

I have finished running all the missing wiring.
After I had ordered the connectors, I noticed C264 (LH kick panel) was a TE Connectivity connector. Unfortunately, that's not what I ordered and I didn't see the OEM terminals on their website. Oddly enough the terminals I ordered for C215 (RH) were TE Connectivity. As far as the two aft connectors, no doubt in my mind that they are Molex and that is what I ordered.

Here's the list (Mouser part numbers):
For C264 LH kick panel,
306-SAITW-A03T-064
JST Automotive Connectors MALE .64

For C215 RH kick panel,
571-1326029-3
TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors 2.8MM BLADE UNSEAL

For C405 side of evap (pump and exhaust solenoids),
538-33000-1002-LP
Molex Automotive Connectors MX150 M 16-20AWG L

For C406 or 408 diff temp sensor/mag ride,
538-33012-2002-LP
Molex Automotive Connectors MX150 F 18-20 AWG R

Notes:
1) The C264 is micro or mini which means the housing for the terminal is small. I had to squeeze the little tab so the terminal would fit vertically in the housing. I also had to squeeze the crimp a little so it would fit horizontally.
2) I used TXL wire. GXL was too thick to crimp; no chance in C264. Bought it from WireBarn.
3) I had to tweak C215 terminals a little; may have been slight bending of terminal from my crimp.
4) If you don't have a decent crimping tool that does both the bare and coating in one step, I'd borrow or buy one.
5) The two aft connectors (C405 and 408?) are sealed. You'll have to remove some wrap to pull the cap far enough up the wires to have access. Break the plug out of the holes you'll be using and run the wire through the cap and seal before crimping (knew this ahead of time and still goofed it up).
6) For the diff temp sensor wires, I drilled a small hole through a rubber plug next the true bundle penetration point behind left back seat. I ran the other two wires from C264 (speed control and diag) along the bundle under the back seat to the right side. I wrapped those two with the two power lines from C215 and ran it along the bundle going back the RH side, back across the trunk, and into the existing penetration through the floor.

Still playing with pump motor. Can't even get it to start. Hooked it up and tried to fool it with a signal from an arduino. I have hooked it up so many times with closely spaced exposed connections, don't even know if I didn't short controller/circuitry. Hoping someone will give it a try and post some good news.

 

[cking]

did you get the two relays? Is wiring for relays in the junction box?

 

[jwb]

My 2016 Helm shows only the Differential Fluid Pump Relay in the BJB. I verified that relay is in the BJB. The schematic you provided in this thread shows the second relay which powers the Diff pump relay. Based on the fact that there is battery power (14.6V) to both circuits (CBK03 and CE358), the second relay must be present also. Thanks for posting that schematic because mine didn't make sense; the line to the diff pump relay solenoid said always hot which would mean the relay was always on.

 

[montreal ponies]

You guys rock ... Looking forward to the DIY thread once it's all said and done.

 

[cking]

jwb you said both lines show voltage. Do you mean both are hot with engine running?

 

[jwb]

Correct. Engine running, both are hot.

 

[Hack]

I have finished running all the missing wiring.
After I had ordered the connectors, I noticed C264 (LH kick panel) was a TE Connectivity connector. Unfortunately, that's not what I ordered and I didn't see the OEM terminals on their website. Oddly enough the terminals I ordered for C215 (RH) were TE Connectivity. As far as the two aft connectors, no doubt in my mind that they are Molex and that is what I ordered.

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Still playing with pump motor. Can't even get it to start. Hooked it up and tried to fool it with a signal from an arduino. I have hooked it up so many times with closely spaced exposed connections, don't even know if I didn't short controller/circuitry. Hoping someone will give it a try and post some good news.

I will have the Ford wiring pigtail for the pump this week and I will try to get the pump to run soon. I will let you know once I do.

Thank you for posting all the information about connectors and terminals. I'm not 100% clear on what you did, though. Did you run all new wires to everything that runs off the kick panel connectors you mentioned? I would have thought you would just add the missing wires and terminals. I'm sure this is a dumb question, but could you please explain?

 

[jwb]

Yes, I just added six wires and twelve terminals. I wrapped wires, ran them along the existing bundles, and zip tied to the existing bundles.

Using the schematic on page 7, C264 is shown with four lines passing through it; two going to diff pump and two going to the diff temp sensor.
For the two diff temp sensor lines I added the terminals for pins 4 and 21 (see numbers next to C264 in schematic) and the wires that run to C408. Obviously I had to add the terminals for pins 4 and 1 in connector C408 (see schematic; btw these are the only female terminals added). The rest of the line to the sensor is one of the replacement bundles that [MENTION=19530]Voodooo[/MENTION] gave us earlier.
For the two going to the diff pump I added the terminals for pins 14 and 15 (see schematic) and the wires that run to C405. Since the two wires from the RH side connector C215 also run to the diff pump, I joined all four of these wires into the same bundle at the RH back seat and ran them back to C405. I added four terminals to C405 (pins 4, 5, 10, 12; see schematic). The rest of the line to the diff pump is the other replacement bundle that [MENTION=19530]Voodooo[/MENTION] provided us.
That leaves just the termination of the two RH lines (pump power) at C215. I added two terminals at pins 3 and 9 (see schematic) and ran the wires as stated above back to C405.

I think this was a lot easier and cheaper than switching out for a track pack bundle. Hope this gives a better picture.
Good luck with the pump. Thanks.

 

[Tank]

[MENTION=29216]jwb[/MENTION],

Awesome work here And thanks for all the legwork and info shared including all my questions through PM:cheers:

Any thoughts on gauge and type of wire you used?

 

[mkonrad]

I'm somewhat a stubborn sort. After one track day in a warm winter day, my transmission was over 240 degrees and the writing is on the wall - get a track transmission and cooler for the tech pack. Done now. But what about the differential cooler? Is it really needed? Even with a denser fluid change? My next chance to check is probably May 5 where I have a track day - I hope to get a reading via IR thermometer.

I really like what's going on here; adding the temp sensor to the gauge cluster is valuable. But maybe it's easier to use another type of pump control? Hopefully the lawsuit didn't set back the rumored release of a differential cooler pack from Ford Performance.

 

[Tank]

I really like what's going on here; adding the temp sensor to the gauge cluster is valuable. But maybe it's easier to use another type of pump control? Hopefully the lawsuit didn't set back the rumored release of a differential cooler pack from Ford Performance.

Isaac at FP verbally confirmed development of a diff cooler kit, unknown release date, to me just before the suit was filed...In any case, I'd be surprised if the kit would allow OEM functionality despite the basic components already installed...

 

[jwb]

Any thoughts on gauge and type of wire you used?

Tank,
I used TXL from WireBarn. I had GXL originally but found the coating to be too thick for crimping (and fitting in C264).
I used 20AWG for the four wires from C264 and 16AWG for the two wires from C215.
Also, I used a ratcheting crimper from DelCity; https://www.delcity.net/store/Open-Barrel-Terminal-Ratchet-Crimp-Tool/p_714008.h_715344. I tried one of those thin crimpers that does just one section of the terminal at a time. None of my crimps were satisfactory with that.

Thanks for the reminder to post this info.

 

[Hack]

Tank,
I used TXL from WireBarn. I had GXL originally but found the coating to be too thick for crimping (and fitting in C264).
I used 20AWG for the four wires from C264 and 16AWG for the two wires from C215.
Also, I used a ratcheting crimper from DelCity; https://www.delcity.net/store/Open-Barrel-Terminal-Ratchet-Crimp-Tool/p_714008.h_715344. I tried one of those thin crimpers that does just one section of the terminal at a time. None of my crimps were satisfactory with that.

Thanks for the reminder to post this info.

Thanks for the info. I went to wirebarn and only saw solid color wiring there. I'd prefer to match the Ford colors. Any thoughts?

 

[jwb]

And I used these wraps.

This one for most interior areas
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00823GUP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this one for exterior (ie underneath the car) and potential wear areas
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZMXLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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