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Subwoofer Upgrade

shelbywannabe

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Be careful with that, the factory power wire is probably way to small for any serious amp.
John
What did you do for polarity on the tweeters ? Match up to the factory wiring ? There are no markings on the kicker tweeters which is negative but I assume it's the black striped one right ? Thanks
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Chef jpd

Chef jpd

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I reused the factory connector by dremeling it off the old tweeter, and correct, stripe is positive.
 

shelbywannabe

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I got the tweeters in and wow what a difference. I have the treble tuned nearly all the way down and it still seems to be too much. Probably just need to get used to it. Was yours like that initially?
 
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Chef jpd

Chef jpd

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I got the tweeters in and wow what a difference. I have the treble tuned nearly all the way down and it still seems to be too much. Probably just need to get used to it. Was yours like that initially?
They can be a bit harsh, did you use the supplied crossover/cap that came with it?
That usually calms it down.
Still too much, then use a Focal tweeter crossover VT-XO.
 

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Yes I did use them and it seems a little overbearing at the moment. I will look into those crossovers if I don't get used to it. Thanks for the info.
I can say that I definitely appreciate being able to hear different instruments that I couldnt hear with the stock tweeters.
 

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Chef jpd

Chef jpd

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Yes I did use them and it seems a little overbearing at the moment. I will look into those crossovers if I don't get used to it. Thanks for the info.
I can say that I definitely appreciate being able to hear different instruments that I couldnt hear with the stock tweeters.
Fwiw, I had the same issue and the Focal crossover also has a resistor that lowers the overall volume of the tweeter. Still awesome sound, and now it isn't trying to drill a hole into your brain.
$20 from Amazon
 

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Ordered them now. Thanks.

I just want more clarity and highs. The way it is now is too much the other direction. I went from having none to tweeter overload. Lol
 
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[MENTION=20738]ponie1992[/MENTION]
I measured the plug and the grey w/red is the amp power feed (+12v), while the black w/green is ground. As Chef jpd said, I would only use these to power the factory Shaker sub amp and not an aftermarket amp.

For the preamp signals, you will have to use a LOC if you want to tap the rear speakers or run cables to the drivers kick panel and directly tap the preamp level signals there.

You still have the issue of the turn-on lead, which will likely require that you run a cable to one of the kick panels... so, if you have to run a cable anyway, its not much more work to run three :(
 

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[MENTION=20738]ponie1992[/MENTION]
I measured the plug and the grey w/red is the amp power feed (+12v), while the black w/green is ground. As Chef jpd said, I would only use these to power the factory Shaker sub amp and not an aftermarket amp.

For the preamp signals, you will have to use a LOC if you want to tap the rear speakers or run cables to the drivers kick panel and directly tap the preamp level signals there.

You still have the issue of the turn-on lead, which will likely require that you run a cable to one of the kick panels... so, if you have to run a cable anyway, its not much more work to run three :(
Thanks for the info! I already have a LOC tied into the rear speaker. Have to see if the output is only RCA or not. Do you think I could use my existing remote wire? Already have power, ground and remote ran to the trunk. If I could use all the wiring I've already ran, install would be a breeze.
 

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Thanks for the info! I already have a LOC tied into the rear speaker. Have to see if the output is only RCA or not. Do you think I could use my existing remote wire? Already have power, ground and remote ran to the trunk. If I could use all the wiring I've already ran, install would be a breeze.
The output of the LOC better be RCAs or else its not an LOC :D

Where is the remote run from / connected to?
 

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Is there a way to get a 10" woofer to fit 'on' the shaker enclosure while increasing the internal volume a bit? There seems to be room towards the center of the trunk to allow the 'spare' flooring to open up. Maybe a thick adapter of some sort? This might get lower and more efficient while still using the stock amp...
 

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The output of the LOC better be RCAs or else its not an LOC :D

Where is the remote run from / connected to?
That's true. Didn't think about it before I typed that. I cant remember where I tied the remote wire in. I do know the sub stays on with accessories on and car off.
Can I just tap into the rear speaker wires to get signal for the inputs on the factory amp?
 
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Chef jpd

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Going to be tackling this later today. How does the sub come out? Do I need to remove the entire sub box?
It makes it much easier to remove the box.
Very simple.
On the bottom of the box, 3 T20ish screws and the trim panel comes off.
Then 2 bottom bolts and 1 torx on the top rear. Pull out and unplug.
 
 




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