Wiring from 400a Head Unit

[billross77]

Ok guys, you have been a great help. I think I have this narrowed down to this amp. If this is not good, just let me know.

My question is...What wiring harness do I need to come out of the head unit, into the new amp? Is it RCA or something else?

I am bypassing the factory amp, so I assume that with a clean (after reprogramming) signal coming from the head unit I can try to reuse some of the factory speaker wires.

I am thinking channels 1 and 2 for two sets of these Kicker speakers.

Channel 3 for these Kicker 3.5" speakers.

Channel 5 for a potential sub addition in the future.

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[MSMStannyl]

Ok guys, you have been a great help. I think I have this narrowed down to this amp. If this is not good, just let me know.

My question is...What wiring harness do I need to come out of the head unit, into the new amp? Is it RCA or something else?

I am bypassing the factory amp, so I assume that with a clean (after reprogramming) signal coming from the head unit I can try to reuse some of the factory speaker wires.

I am thinking channels 1 and 2 for two sets of these Kicker speakers.

Channel 3 for these Kicker 3.5" speakers.

Channel 5 for a potential sub addition in the future.

Amps typically need an RCA input. I do not believe any of the factory headunits have RCA outs so you will need a line-out converter. It basically taps the speaker wires to create a set of RCA's.

I believe there is a sticky in the audio thread that has super detailed info on all of the speaker wiring, factory amps, etc. Might be helpful.

 

[billross77]

I read through the sticky thread, but not being an audio guy, it didnt make a lot of sense to me. I have read some threads saying that the head unit has outputs that dont require a LOC, but maybe Im mistaken.

 

[MSMStannyl]

I read through the sticky thread, but not being an audio guy, it didnt make a lot of sense to me. I have read some threads saying that the head unit has outputs that dont require a LOC, but maybe Im mistaken.

I am by no means an expert but that would be news to me. I did not think the factory system had RCA's. Hopefully someone with more info about it can chime in. I just wanted to point out the sticky about the wiring in case you hadn't seen it.

I actually have a JL amp and a JL 10" sub in a box that have been sitting in the closet for almost 2 years (since I traded in my WRX and bought my Mustang). I keep going back and forth trying to decide if I want to install them. I think I may just need to sell them and get them gone. I'm ok with the factory stereo for the most part, although I know a lot of people aren't.

 

[rambunctious]

the factory radio head has line level output when there is a factory amp. There are not RCA connectors, but the signal is appropriate. a harness with the factory connector that plugs into the radiohead and RCA's would allow your installation. This can also be done at the factory amp. the connectors are attainable with part number search, some plug and play harnesses are in the works.........

Ramb

 

[billross77]

Ok, I found this thread with ton of info

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19608

Does anyone have the color codes for the 9 speaker system. It looks like I can just solder the wire to a speaker wire/RCA adapter for the speakers, then have the amp wired for power, ground and remote. Am I on the right track?

 

[mumbles]

Ok guys, you have been a great help. I think I have this narrowed down to this amp. If this is not good, just let me know.

My question is...What wiring harness do I need to come out of the head unit, into the new amp? Is it RCA or something else?

I am bypassing the factory amp, so I assume that with a clean (after reprogramming) signal coming from the head unit I can try to reuse some of the factory speaker wires.

I am thinking channels 1 and 2 for two sets of these Kicker speakers.

Channel 3 for these Kicker 3.5" speakers.

Channel 5 for a potential sub addition in the future.

Ok, I found this thread with ton of info

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19608

Does anyone have the color codes for the 9 speaker system. It looks like I can just solder the wire to a speaker wire/RCA adapter for the speakers, then have the amp wired for power, ground and remote. Am I on the right track?

I'm going to try to answer two questions here...

First, the speakers you have linked are both multi-way speakers, so you are going to have high frequency signals coming from the 3.5's (which is ok), but having the same high frequency signals coming from the 6.5's is going to bring your soundstage down towards your floor... not very desirable. It would be better to just use some mid-woofer 6.5's down in the lower doors that don't have any tweeters.

Second, the color code for the speakers is;
LF - Gray
LF + Green
RF - Yellow
RF + Violet

 

[ForTehNguyen]

i used the signals on the pins that are going to the amp, so they are pre amp signals from the head unit, dont need to take anything apart.

 

[billross77]

I dont suppose anyone knows any qualified installers in the Fort Worth area?

 

[mumbles]

I dont suppose anyone knows any qualified installers in the Fort Worth area?

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/professional-installer-locator-review-forum/

DIYMA is a great site for all kinds of Car Stereo info...

 

[billross77]

I'm going to try to answer two questions here...

First, the speakers you have linked are both multi-way speakers, so you are going to have high frequency signals coming from the 3.5's (which is ok), but having the same high frequency signals coming from the 6.5's is going to bring your soundstage down towards your floor... not very desirable. It would be better to just use some mid-woofer 6.5's down in the lower doors that don't have any tweeters.

Second, the color code for the speakers is;
LF - Gray
LF + Green
RF - Yellow
RF + Violet

Ok, so what I ended up buying is a pair of Kicker 1" tweeters to put in the A pillars, Kicker 3.5" 2 way speakers for the doors, and a pair of Fosgate 6.5" mid woofers for the door. This will be powered by a Fosgate R400-D4 amp. Hopefully having the tweeters and the 3.5's wont cause an issue with the highs. The back deck will go empty.

 

[billross77]

Now Im confused as crap. I took my gear to the audio shop and the guy swears that it needs a LOC because the amp needs to get the high level signal after the amp so that it retains its Sync functions? Is this true or do I need to give him the middle finger?

 

[mumbles]

Now Im confused as crap. I took my gear to the audio shop and the guy swears that it needs a LOC because the amp needs to get the high level signal after the amp so that it retains its Sync functions? Is this true or do I need to give him the middle finger?

Check the diagrams on post 251 of this thread;
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25501&page=17

The Sync functions come from the ACM not the amp...

 

[ib2loud]

Probably a stupid question but could one tap into the wires from the head unit, before the amp but not disconnecting them from the amp so the speakers stay functional, and use a speaker to RCA adapter and have a solid low level input for an amp for a subwoofer? If so would it be better to tap into the front or rear inputs?

 

[mumbles]

You can tap into the harness for the rear speakers. Some say that signal is rolled-off and some say it works fine.

Seems like it would be better to tap into the front harness, before the amplifier, but of course you then have to run cables to the rear assuming that's where your amp will be located.

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