Wheels/Suspension Makeover (picture heavy)

[whalesalad]

Hey Y'all,

I just got finished with a mega suspension and wheel/tire makeover. This all started during the winter where I knew that I wanted to start prepping for a set of aftermarket forged wheels. I was unhappy with the rake from the BMR SP080 springs so I started to do a ton of research.

That culminated with this thread here, where I made the decision to go with Steeda's Ultralite linear springs, 1/8" spacer, pro action non-adjustible shocks/struts, camber plates, and the billet rear shock mounts.

Here is the story of how everything has gone as far as the installation and troubleshooting.

First off, here is how my car looked after installing the BMR springs and 25mm spacers around this time last year:

Here is how she sat on my winter wheels, again with the SP080 springs and a fairly substantial rake:

Finally, after spending a few weeks out of town for my honeymoon and enduring a couple more crappy Michigan days... the weather was good enough to get started.

I made the mistake of not checking my shipment from Steeda until the day of the install. Turns out they accidentally sent me the adjustable rear shocks which would not fit in the top mounts that I ordered. Their support was excellent and they sent me a fresh set right away.

Inspecting the mounts prior to installation,

I couldn't do the rear shocks, but I figured I would install the rear springs anyway to finally be rid of the rake.

Here are the Steeda Ultralite linear's compared to the BMR SP080 rear springs:

I finally got to start using the tiny 3/8" impact I got over the holidays from my father-in-law. This thing is so useful!

After the install and putting my OEM rear tires back on, things were already looking good without giving them time to settle down:

I finished so quickly, that I decided to start working on the front-end since I had the correct front struts.

I really hate using spring compressors... here is before:

Another side-by-side comparison of the Steeda Ultralite linear springs and BMR SP080:

And after,

Here is how the car sat the next day after putting some miles on her:

I was much happier with the fitment!

But... the happiness wouldn't last long. There was a rattle coming from the front-end and I was having a difficult time figuring it out. From my experience with cars over the years, the strut nut was an obvious suspect. Unfortunately, the tiny little female-hex tip of the strut is not very robust and makes torquing the top nut very difficult. Contrast that to the OEM strut which has a very meaty male tip that makes tightening the strut nut much easier.

I am incredibly sensitive to sounds and noises. I'm also a perfectionist and a software engineer by day... so ensuring all the i's are dotted and the t's are crossed is incredibly important to me. I always torque things to spec, use loctite, buy the right tools for the job, etc...

So I figured I would order a strut socket and really try to get things torqued down properly.

I also ordered high-end hex wrenches so that I wouldn't face issues with breaking them:

This is what happened to my previous hex wrench when trying to torque the nut properly:

Even the new hex wrench was warping a bit.

Here is what the top of the pro action strut looks like... Steeda, if you are listening, PLEASE redesign this part of the strut. This is very unfriendly to the consumer.

Ultimately, I was unable to get things tightened up properly because the noises remained. Here is a thread that describes the issue: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103487

A shot taken after driving up 7 levels of a parking garage, dreading every speedbump:

Throughout this entire time, quite a few folks at Steeda went above and beyond to try and help me get this issue sorted. Jamie in the engineering department, Mike (the infamous [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION]) and many others were communicating with me on a regular basis via email, phone, etc...

At one point I took it to a shop operated by some friends of Steeda to have them see if they could sort it out. We ended up replacing the front struts and re-doing the installation (the shop had to cut the top strut nuts off because of how bad the female-hex design is)

Things were better (less rattle/loose material sound, but still something not quite right) – the (egregious in my mind) NVH still remained.

By this time the rear end parts had arrived (the correct struts) so I installed those with the help of my pooch Mason:

Old shocks

Installing the top nut

New stuff ready to go in:

The rear assembly was a breeze compared to the front.

I made sure to use new hardware since these parts are torque-to-yield:

Installed:

By this time I've put about 300 miles on the car and the feeling of the front-end just wasn't right. A drop-off in elevation would cause a thud that I really didn't like. It was as though the spring assembly wasn't "solid".

As a last ditch effort, Mike at Steeda suggested switching away from the Ultralite linear springs and moving to the progressive springs. In hindsight, I should have done this from the beginning. The roads here in Michigan (especially this time of year, right after winter) are outrageously bad.

This is not uncommon for Michigan:

[ame]

So Mike had the Progressive springs shot up to Michigan so that I could install them this weekend before my alignment next week. I think Mike might hate me at this point but good lord he has been a tremendous help through this entire process. I've never received such first-class support from anyone before. Despite the issues I have had, Steeda is a phenomenal company.

This weekend I psyched myself up for ANOTHER full suspension job and got to work.

Here are the new rear springs (progressive) vs the linear:

And the front springs:

Removing the strut nut from the old assembly required me to cut it off, just like the shop when helping out. I really think the female hex design needs to be rethought!!!

After a trip to ACE to try and find new top nuts, I had everything reassembled:

I ended up going with a 9/16-18 zinc jam nut. After 4-5 turns I got *slight* resistance on the shock... but a half turn or so the resistance went away and it threaded up and down just fine. I... think that's okay?

After a test drive earlier today... REALLY bad rattle. This time way more worse than before. Even my wife who is not nearly as OCD as me was like woah that is bad. I brought it home and checked over everything... nothing was loose.

Took my electric impact to the top nut and just hammered the piss out of it. Then took my hex wrench and 22mm wrench and cranked on it. Test drove again... far less noise but still a bit.

Pulled it back in the driveway, cranked on it again with the impact and again with the wrench.

Went for a test drive... so far so good! No noises!



I’ll be honest... I’m worried the issue will come back. The tolerance on that top nut is sooooo small and the female hex interface is so weak that I don’t have a lot of confidence in the solution. I hope it holds up.

The progressive springs are much better than the linear for these roads. So far I have only driven about 5 miles but it feels great. Can't wait to see how it holds up during the commute this week.

Finally... here is a sneak peek at the new wheels I put on. I'm putting together a thread on that too because these were custom made by my friend Alex of wheelflip.com & arcanewheels.com.

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[GT 550]

Thanks whalesalad, great suspension post. And the wheels look very nice indeed.

I'm contemplating a very similar approach to the suspension on my PP. Roads here in Australia can be very similar to the ones in the clip you posted. I'd be grateful for your thoughts on the difference in ride between 1. stock and BMR springs, and 2. stock and the final set up?

Cheers

 

[whalesalad]

Thanks whalesalad, great suspension post. And the wheels look very nice indeed.

I'm contemplating a very similar approach to the suspension on my PP. Roads here in Australia can be very similar to the ones in the clip you posted. I'd be grateful for your thoughts on the difference in ride between 1. stock and BMR springs, and 2. stock and the final set up?

Cheers

I’m still a little undecided to be honest. I think once I get s proper alignment this coming week I will have a much better answer for the drivability and performance benefits. I do know that when driving aggressively there is a tremendous amount of confidence from this setup. I think it’s gonna take me a while to grow accustomed to the thuds and harshness on our Michigan roads. I was on 255/40 winter tires for months and they are very very soft so there’s a chance I’m just caught up on that as well. I forgot what performance tires feel like :headbonk:

 

[GT 550]

So am I right in thinking first impressions are that harshness has increased a little? Sorry of I got that wrong.

 

[Blackhawk25]

I have a 2017 GT with PP. I have been researching suspension mods for 1 year and to be honest the more I read the less I want to change, it seems that it is not worth all the aggravation, and further more I really enjoy the PP as is
I did change the wheels and tires with the SVE 350R wheels (285 front and 305 rears and it improved the handling.
And I really have not experienced the so call wheel hop, my car will never see a track, so maybe the suspension mods will benefit track guys but for an occasional weekend car like mine, the PP is great
Just my 2 cents

 

[whalesalad]

So am I right in thinking first impressions are that harshness has increased a little? Sorry of I got that wrong.

Going simply to the BMR springs: no, there was no harshness increase.

Now, yes to an extent, but so many variables have been introduced it’s hard to pinpoint the exact reason.

I think that the progressives are pretty spot on. I went out for a long cruise earlier and the car feels pretty good. Still have a few spots that really give a seemingly more significant (than expected) sound and feeling in the floorboard/steering wheel.... but I’m not sure if that’s due to camber plates, dampers, new springs, tires being changed, etc...

All of that being said, when you change these systems it’s bound to cause an increase in NVH. Nothing is free. Everything is a give and take. If I could do all of this over again I might have just transitioned to the progressive springs and nothing else, keeping my OEM performance pack dampers and oem top mount (no camber adjustment)

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Well bud, I’m sorry the Ultralite setup didn’t work for you. Perhaps the roads of Detroit are thier kryptonite...225/880 is a serious setup after all. As far as the install, the fact that multiple hex wrenches were warped is super odd, as is the cutting of bits to remove the strut. The noises come as a suprise too...I run this setup and have zero issues.

Anyway, it’s great to hear how well Steeda responded and that you’ve found some piece of mind. I think your last statement rings true, less is more if you daily drive on terrible roads...that or invest in a Jeep ;)

P.S. Gorgeous wheels!

 

[whalesalad]

When stuff goes wrong with my car, I obsess over it and can’t rest until it’s resolved. I work full time though so it’s hard to make time to diagnose and fix things. So it really comes down to doing work on weekends and then seeing how that performs during the week. I’d have lost my mind if it wasn’t for the folks at Steeda being so helpful while I sorted this out. I’m a customer for life.

 

[me and mustang r50]

I'll be replacing my base suspension soon. I plan on did it at home with jack and stands. How was it doing the suspension work with a jack and stands? For the rear did you ,remove the 4 bolts and lower the entire assy for the spring change?

 

[whalesalad]

I'll be replacing my base suspension soon. I plan on did it at home with jack and stands. How was it doing the suspension work with a jack and stands? For the rear did you ,remove the 4 bolts and lower the entire assy for the spring change?

I did everything in my garage with two jack stands and a low-profile jack.

I wouldn't recommend lowering the entire subframe assembly ... instead do one side at a time. Place your jack under the subframe where the control arm mounts to it and support it, loosen both front/rear bolts, gently lower, do your work, raise it back up, bolt it back in, then do the other side. I've done this 3 or 4 times now and it's gone really well.

Just got the Steeda subframe alignment kit today (the machined delrin inserts) and will be doing this, to some extent, again this evening or tomorrow!

 

[me and mustang r50]

One side at a time, that's good to know, thanks for the advice.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Not trying to challenge you, just... I'm confused. You are bending hex tools. Is the hex getting stuck IN the female hex of the strut or are you having to hold the hex tool stationary with such force that it bends? And your shop had to cut off the top nut? That also confuses me. The reason I say this is, I have installed probably 3-4 sets of these fixed Pro-Action shocks to date, a few with camber plates of some variety (Steeda and one was a J&M something...) and have never ended up with clunking unless the sway bar end link didn't get torqued enough at the strut mounting point (technically you should retorque those after a bumpy road drive). I never bent even my hex tool which came in a Craftsman set, so it can't be that special. I have always just used an impact gun to remove the top nut while holding the shock shaft with rubberized locking pliers (or locking pliers with a thick rag protecting the shaft at the clamp point). There's no need to use the hex when removing the nut, only for your final torque action which shouldn't end up requiring much articulation of the torque wrench at all since you've used a small impact (not the big one) to buzz on the bolt already when the spring was compressed (again, while holding the shaft with the aforementioned tool options). Never want to buzz the top nut tight or to loosen without holding the shaft as spinning the shaft fast can goof up the seal and if the top nut is already tight, you will not spin anything but the shaft. If you move the shaft a little here and there, no big deal. I agree, I don't like that design much and would prefer the OEM approach or some kind of cam lock for the shaft, but that design is pretty standard among struts, even in the OEM market and certainly through years of Koni-body shocks. It's very simple to achieve rated torque value.

As for your alignment kit, the instructions stay to do one side at a time, not loosening the opposite side. Screw the instructions. You will do one side at a time, sure, but you need to lightly loosen the opposite side and never tighten completely the side that you already did so that you can articulate the IRS assembly around as needed with a pry bar in order to get the remaining 2 pins in. Then when they're all in and you have achieved 3-4 threads BY HAND at least of the blue bolts, just jack up the subframe so it makes contact with the frame, then buzz down the big blue bolts and torque them to (I think ) 129. Obviously don't forget to buzz them down and torque them since they'll all be some version of loose until you do.

If you feel like driving down in July, I'll be in Chicago then and can look at your setup myself. I'll be at Road America on July 14th, as well. You can ride around in my car which has very few remaining rubber bushings (delrin, poly, or spherical now), much stiffer springs than you have, and the adjustable shocks. Even a aluminum-bushing IRS mount and harder engine mounts. After my car, you'll go in your car and think it's a Rolls Royce... but still, mine isn't bad at all.

 

[whalesalad]

[MENTION=21494]wildcatgoal[/MENTION] tightening the top nut to the spec of 77 ft/lb has proven difficult for me.

Is the hex getting stuck IN the female hex of the strut or are you having to hold the hex tool stationary with such force that it bends?

Both.

And your shop had to cut off the top nut?

Yes.

have never ended up with clunking unless the sway bar end link didn't get torqued enough

I took the everything apart multiple times to check this. I probably had my wheels on and off 2x a day, every single day, for a week or two. Endlinks were torqued properly. Brake calipers were torqued properly.

The most last stint of riding on the Ultralite linear's was assembled by a shop that was recommended by Steeda. They too cranked on the top nut with a box wrench and a hex wrench until it was as tight as would possibly go.

That's why I finally started to posit the theory that perhaps the camber plate + spherical bearing was just transmitting more NVH than I was willing to tolerate (personally). But after reading that EVERYONE else with them seemed to notice nothing whatsoever... I was even more perplexed. So, the consensus seemed to be that something still wasn't right or the linear springs were just not the right spring for me.

There's no need to use the hex when removing the nut,

I need air tools :(

I agree, I don't like that design much and would prefer the OEM approach or some kind of cam lock for the shaft, but that design is pretty standard among struts, even in the OEM market and certainly through years of Koni-body shocks. It's very simple to achieve rated torque value.

Yeah... this is not an issue unique to Steeda so not trying to fault them entirely. Heck I'm sure these bodies are designed and manufactured by someone else to the specifications put forth by Steeda. Made in Holland after all.

I just wish the top of the strut shaft was either hex shaped (for instance, somewhere on the smooth portion of the shaft was cut to not be round) or, of course, the OEM style is also superior.

Thanks for the tips on the subframe alignment and for the offer to come out to Chi town in July. I might need to take ya up on that offer to come out and see how your car feels.

 

[wildcatgoal]

That's why I finally started to posit the theory that perhaps the camber plate + spherical bearing was just transmitting more NVH than I was willing to tolerate (personally). But after reading that EVERYONE else with them seemed to notice nothing whatsoever... I was even more perplexed. So, the consensus seemed to be that something still wasn't right or the linear springs were just not the right spring for me.

With camber plates, you're replacing a bushing designed to reduce NVH with a bearing that offers absolutely ZERO NVH absorption/dampening, so yes there will be additional NVH. It annoys me to no end that any manufacturer says "NO ADDITIONAL NVH" and they all seem to do it. But, I've driven in multiple Steeda demo cars as well as my own and can state there shouldn't be MUCH at all, even with a full suite of products. I just got to drive in Steeda's 2018 red car when they were at Homestead (watched the #20 car win a race!) and it's near dead silent and extremely compliant and it has their Dual Rate springs, like my car. Now, I get more NVH than the usual car because I have gone probably too far, but nonetheless I've driven from Atlanta to Chicago in comfort and drive my car through city streets where I live with little complaint. You'll get some clunk or pop or transmission of vibration in fringe/extreme cases like a rapid, long dip articulation of the suspension, an abrupt harsh-edged bump that shocks the suspension, or washboard-like road conditions, but it is surprisingly minimal (but this all depends on tolerance).

I need air tools

I rarely use air tools. I use Makita 1/2" and 3/4" impact guns. I got to try the Milwaukee 3/4" the other day, and it was nice. They're spendy, but worth it and often on sale on Black Friday or similar holiday deal times.

I just wish the top of the strut shaft was either hex shaped (for instance, somewhere on the smooth portion of the shaft was cut to not be round) or, of course, the OEM style is also superior.

The adjustable shocks Steeda makes utilize basically a male hex vs. a female hex allen key hole to hold the shaft. That isn't any easier. The allen key approach is easier IMO.

To be honest, I impact gun the nut down off the car while holding the shaft stationary for two ugga duggas. Install the strut. Then give the nut two more ugga duggas with weight on the car reaching around to hold the shaft still, but it never moves at that point. Then I do the torque wrench. 9.8/10 I move the torque wrench very little to get the click at the desired torque rating.

 

[cjldad]

Man, I've been waiting on this story..

I thank you for your experiences. I'm not going to do their camber plates and use my camber bolts instead. This goes against everything in my being, but sounds like the best option for me. Do you think the linear springs had the noise when being unloaded because they are so short? I had that concern in my mind when I put them on my struts. You ended up using the 1/8 spacer with the progressive springs as well?

Thanks man, your car looks great!

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