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The joy this image represents is unmeasurable..................

IMG-0871.jpg


Nothing special here, just a maintenance clean using Koch Chemie GSF. I also spent some time messing about with the number plate protectors. Actually, this car has never had them in its near 16-year life. The plates on this car are the blue and white Victorian slimline items with a blue outline around outside edge. Having a plate covers on hides that blue outline with a black boarder, which has the effect of making the plate appear more integrated and a cleaner overall look. Wish I did this long ago. Meanwhile, it's about time the whole number plate thing was phased out in Australia, it's not 1979 anymore. At the very least, get rid of the front plate as it almost always ruins the front-end design, Mustang's in particular.

Also, a couple of observations regarding the new brakes on this car. These things are just so much smoother feeling under foot, and overall, more capable in all driving conditions. The front Project Mu pads do produce more brake dust than the Ford OE pads, but with the wheels coated, that simply washes off with water.

I also had a problem with the A/C on this car today, the air from the vents was warm and the compressor not cycling. This has happened a few times in the past, always linked back to low battery voltage. That is a common situation with FG Falcon's, which shed battery draw by shutting down non-essential systems to save power, the AC being one of them. Having said that, the car was starting just fine. I had planned on swapping this car back into storage but aborted that and instead plugged it up to the CTEK, hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, it's probably time for a new battery, it would easily be over 10 years old now.
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I also had a problem with the A/C on this car today, the air from the vents was warm and the compressor not cycling. This has happened a few times in the past, always linked back to low battery voltage. That is a common situation with FG Falcon's, which shed battery draw by shutting down non-essential systems to save power, the AC being one of them. Having said that, the car was starting just fine. I had planned on swapping this car back into storage but aborted that and instead plugged it up to the CTEK, hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, it's probably time for a new battery, it would easily be over 10 years old now.
Five hours on the CTEK and its back! :like:
 

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It's impressive what Touchless can do, probably one of the very few products that can work acceptably in a foam and rinse format without even putting a finger on the car.

Can I ask what dilution you use and what pressure washer you are using? That's where I have trouble with the product, the convoluted "panel impact ratio's" that are very dependent on what your pressure washer is capable of.

The super high pH level of 13.0 is going to give most waxes and sealants a rattle. It's probably best used on ceramic coated vehicles, or if you follow up with an appropriate drying aid. It's important to note that Touchless is generally reserved for foaming, if you decided to agitate with wash mitt, that will be stripping waxes and sealants pretty quickly.

I also have concerns about how it will affect rubber and unpainted plastic trims with regular use. In the case of the Kia above, that absolutely warranted the use of Touchless, but for regular maintenance washing, I don't think you want to be using Touchless at every wash, its just too aggressive.
Hi,

Just to be clear, it's BH 'Auto Foam' that I use and not 'Touch Less'. I'm not totally sure if the product names are consistent around the globe ? You can see the UK labeling / branding in one of the photos below.

With regards to the panel dilution ratio please see my comments below. Note that if my response doesn't read particularly well or if it isn't in the best logical order, it's because (to save time) it's a response made from multiple other posts I have made in the past :like:

-----------------------------------

Ref dilution ratio for auto foam - I also got confused with the dilution guidelines, so got lazy and just kept the same as my previous products (angel foam, but mostly magi foam).

I will need to check as I havenā€™t actually measured it in ā€˜yearsā€™ ā€¦ lol.

In the past I measured it for every mix, but then I realised it was a waste of time and just put tape lines on my foam bottles in the right spots. If I recall correctly, it was 160ml in a (1000ml ?) large foam bottle, but donā€™t trust that just yet, let me check and get back to you.

Maybe I landed lucky, but at whatever that ratio turns out to be, although it produces a watery foam, it does clean off typical U.K. dirt really well.

Iā€™ve posted example photos in the past, Iā€™ve never had any negative effects, but it does strip waxes reasonably quickly.

Great for my daily and the wifeā€™s car, but I donā€™t use it in the stang (never gets dirty enough to warrant the cleaning power.

I will be back with the confirmed mix ratio soon :like:

-----------------------------------

Here you go, this is as I pulled the stuff out of the garage - I already had one measure in the bottle, and the other bottle is a half used mix of mild snow foam for the stang :

1704021240449.jpeg


Here is the tape line :

1704021272174.jpeg


Which only being single thickness, is surprisingly easy to see where you are up to (even with the clear mild foam) :

1704021333454.jpeg


I was correct that itā€™s 160ml :

1704021368374.jpeg


And that my bottles are 1000ml, but I only fill them to 900ml (to stop the bubbles overflowing when I fill from a tap) :

1704021432143.jpeg


Whilst I had the stuff out, I made up the mix :

1704021483620.jpeg


One mix gives me two full cars, including wheel wells and wheels, and going over some areas twice to cope with run off or heavily soiled areas. So Iā€™m using 80ml per car, from a reasonably high flow rate machine.

For completeness, this is how that kit is stored (as it suits a narrow space I have spare) :

1704021548915.jpeg


I know thatā€™s an old gun, but I canā€™t bring myself to replace it - with my setup it foams great and hasnā€™t missed a beat in 12 years ā€¦ lol

With both foam types, I use the gun in max bubble setting, and itā€™s fed with very soft water from this spec machine :

1704021709828.jpeg


That gives me a foam thatā€™s slightly runny. In comparison, the mild foam for the stang gives me shaving foam that lives in the gaps on my cobbled drive for 24 hours or more ā€¦

-----------------------------------

Hope that helps ?

WD :like:
 

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The joy this image represents is unmeasurable..................

IMG-0871.jpg


Nothing special here, just a maintenance clean using Koch Chemie GSF. I also spent some time messing about with the number plate protectors. Actually, this car has never had them in its near 16-year life. The plates on this car are the blue and white Victorian slimline items with a blue outline around outside edge. Having a plate covers on hides that blue outline with a black boarder, which has the effect of making the plate appear more integrated and a cleaner overall look. Wish I did this long ago. Meanwhile, it's about time the whole number plate thing was phased out in Australia, it's not 1979 anymore. At the very least, get rid of the front plate as it almost always ruins the front-end design, Mustang's in particular.

Also, a couple of observations regarding the new brakes on this car. These things are just so much smoother feeling under foot, and overall, more capable in all driving conditions. The front Project Mu pads do produce more brake dust than the Ford OE pads, but with the wheels coated, that simply washes off with water.

I also had a problem with the A/C on this car today, the air from the vents was warm and the compressor not cycling. This has happened a few times in the past, always linked back to low battery voltage. That is a common situation with FG Falcon's, which shed battery draw by shutting down non-essential systems to save power, the AC being one of them. Having said that, the car was starting just fine. I had planned on swapping this car back into storage but aborted that and instead plugged it up to the CTEK, hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, it's probably time for a new battery, it would easily be over 10 years old now.
That does look fantastic :)

On a side note derail your thoughts, I noticed you said you used GSF. I have been on the prowl of KCx products lately and noticed a few new products I haven't seen before and wanted to get your opinion. My go to soap from KCx is definitely GSF although I did get a bottle of GFX and a bottle of RS to try for my next acidic wash to compare to Descale.

That said, I noticed one called AS or Auto Shampoo. Only comes in 5 liter and is quite cheap compared to GSF. I noticed the PH was 9.0 so I presume it compares to Active foam. I definitely don't need 5 liters but thought it was interesting the 5 liter jug is just a couple dollars more than 1 liter of GSF. HMM...

Also I noticed here in the US they now have Multi Star N which is marketed over seas as Vorreiniger B. I went ahead and ordered a 5 liter jug of it as I have seen it is a very powerful APC that foams, great for a strip wash pre soak. Definitely not something to use every time, but would come in handy for really grimy or winter worn vehicles. Kinda like Eulex compared to TEA, much stronger than the average chemical. I have used Green Star so far and it works OK but nice to have another tool in the arsenal, and it is relatively cheap all things considered. Any thoughts on these products would be awesome :)
 
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That does look fantastic :)

On a side note derail your thoughts, I noticed you said you used GSF. I have been on the prowl of KCx products lately and noticed a few new products I haven't seen before and wanted to get your opinion. My go to soap from KCx is definitely GSF although I did get a bottle of GFX and a bottle of RS to try for my next acidic wash to compare to Descale.

That said, I noticed one called AS or Auto Shampoo. Only comes in 5 liter and is quite cheap compared to GSF. I noticed the PH was 9.0 so I presume it compares to Active foam. I definitely don't need 5 liters but thought it was interesting the 5 liter jug is just a couple dollars more than 1 liter of GSF. HMM...


Also I noticed here in the US they now have Multi Star N which is marketed over seas as Vorreiniger B. I went ahead and ordered a 5 liter jug of it as I have seen it is a very powerful APC that foams, great for a strip wash pre soak. Definitely not something to use every time, but would come in handy for really grimy or winter worn vehicles. Kinda like Eulex compared to TEA, much stronger than the average chemical. I have used Green Star so far and it works OK but nice to have another tool in the arsenal, and it is relatively cheap all things considered. Any thoughts on these products would be awesome :)
When you got the bottle of GFX (Christmas edition), despite the claims of being exactly the same as GSF except for the cinnamon scent, the pH figure on the bottle reads 8.0 and not the 7.5 of normal GSF? Not sure what's going on there.

I'm still to try Reactivation Shampo RS, it hasn't landed in Australia yet.

As for Auto Shampoo AS, the simple answer is AVOID!



I have lifted the below from my Disappointment Thread (Post 6), and I also rated it 2 out of 10 in my Soap Shoot Out. I have bolded the key points.

.............Products like GSF, Green Star, Pol Star, Motorplast and Plast Star PSS are the volume sellers in the range, and for good reason. That popularity meant that for much of last year, the brand was sold out across multiple lines at all Australian retailers, GSF soap in particular. That lead me to trying another of their soaps, AS Auto Shampoo, and considering how much I loved GSF, I was keen to try this out. In addition to the product actually being available, Auto Shampoo was about $15 AUD cheaper for a 1 Liter bottle than GSF. When GSF did return to stock, the price difference blew out to $20 AUD.

Koch Chemie AS Auto Shampoo is a slightly alkaline leaning soap, registering a pH of 9.0. The higher pH offers added cleaning ability, despite that, Koch suggest that waxes and sealants wonā€™t be removed. AS is recommended for bucket and foam cannons, has high lubrication and features a ā€œfreshā€ lemon scent. All of that sounds great, but I canā€™t say much, if any of that, translated into real world.

Koch Chemie tout Auto Shampoo as being a high foaming ability. Now, Iā€™m not sure if the formula has been tweaked since then, but I did not observe anything I would call a high level of foam. My initial use started with the usual 100ml of soap in the foam cannon. Instantly, I was presented with thin, watering ā€œfoamā€. In reality, I would not call it foam, rather it was just coating the car in soapy water. I upped the amount of soap in the cannon a couple of times attempting to get it foam with no luck.

(Below, that is the "foam" it generated, extremely thin and watery.)

IMG-1670.jpg


With the higher pH, cleaning ability was decent and lubrication fair. The lemon scent was mildly pleasant. After that first use, I ended up finishing off the bottle by using it in my wheel bucket.

IMG-2200.jpg


From what I can gather, AS Auto Shampoo was probably designed for use in gantry washing systems, ie at a car wash. When you consider the way AS ā€œfoamsā€, it sort of aligns with the sort of soap dispensed from the spray lance at a car wash. I guess putting the product into a retail bottle was an attempt to capitalize on the popularity of the rest of the range. But then, they do make a point of highlighting the ā€œhigh foamingā€ aspect of the product, which led me to believe it could have been a good alternative to GSF.

I would definitely label Koch Chemie AS Auto Shampoo as a disappointment. I'm sure it has its applications where it does well, but attempting to live up to the overall brilliance of GSF was always going to be a challenge. Sadly, it fell well short.

If nothing else, AS proves that no single brand produces a full line of winners. And this is why I try so many different products, weeding out the duds from the gems.
 

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Hi,

Just to be clear, it's BH 'Auto Foam' that I use and not 'Touch Less'. I'm not totally sure if the product names are consistent around the globe ? You can see the UK labeling / branding in one of the photos below.

With regards to the panel dilution ratio please see my comments below. Note that if my response doesn't read particularly well or if it isn't in the best logical order, it's because (to save time) it's a response made from multiple other posts I have made in the past :like:

-----------------------------------

Ref dilution ratio for auto foam - I also got confused with the dilution guidelines, so got lazy and just kept the same as my previous products (angel foam, but mostly magi foam).

I will need to check as I havenā€™t actually measured it in ā€˜yearsā€™ ā€¦ lol.

In the past I measured it for every mix, but then I realised it was a waste of time and just put tape lines on my foam bottles in the right spots. If I recall correctly, it was 160ml in a (1000ml ?) large foam bottle, but donā€™t trust that just yet, let me check and get back to you.

Maybe I landed lucky, but at whatever that ratio turns out to be, although it produces a watery foam, it does clean off typical U.K. dirt really well.

Iā€™ve posted example photos in the past, Iā€™ve never had any negative effects, but it does strip waxes reasonably quickly.

Great for my daily and the wifeā€™s car, but I donā€™t use it in the stang (never gets dirty enough to warrant the cleaning power.

I will be back with the confirmed mix ratio soon :like:

-----------------------------------

Here you go, this is as I pulled the stuff out of the garage - I already had one measure in the bottle, and the other bottle is a half used mix of mild snow foam for the stang :

1704021240449.jpeg


Here is the tape line :

1704021272174.jpeg


Which only being single thickness, is surprisingly easy to see where you are up to (even with the clear mild foam) :

1704021333454.jpeg


I was correct that itā€™s 160ml :

1704021368374.jpeg


And that my bottles are 1000ml, but I only fill them to 900ml (to stop the bubbles overflowing when I fill from a tap) :

1704021432143.jpeg


Whilst I had the stuff out, I made up the mix :

1704021483620.jpeg


One mix gives me two full cars, including wheel wells and wheels, and going over some areas twice to cope with run off or heavily soiled areas. So Iā€™m using 80ml per car, from a reasonably high flow rate machine.

For completeness, this is how that kit is stored (as it suits a narrow space I have spare) :

1704021548915.jpeg


I know thatā€™s an old gun, but I canā€™t bring myself to replace it - with my setup it foams great and hasnā€™t missed a beat in 12 years ā€¦ lol

With both foam types, I use the gun in max bubble setting, and itā€™s fed with very soft water from this spec machine :

1704021709828.jpeg


That gives me a foam thatā€™s slightly runny. In comparison, the mild foam for the stang gives me shaving foam that lives in the gaps on my cobbled drive for 24 hours or more ā€¦

-----------------------------------

Hope that helps ?

WD :like:
Thanks so much for the detailed respone.

Sorry about that, for some reason I assumed you were using Touchless.

I would seem both Auto Foam and Touchless don't produce shaving cream type. foam, which is to allow the product to pull contamination away from the paint as it runs down the panels.

Your pressure washer is pretty stout too, 8.3 Liters per hour is a great figure to work with.
 
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+1 on the plates - this is my first hour of ownership.
Front same same.
Vert same same.

IMG_1087.jpeg


IMG_1092.jpeg


IMG_1103.jpeg
I get quite annoyed by dealers who use the standard size plates on Mustang's.

I especially hate having the state propaganda slogans they put under the numbers. I live in this state, why do I need to show everyone some slogan that you just know took a boardroom of highly educated "experts" to come up with. The Education State? As if every other state does not have access to education . Or "The Garden State", last time I checked, people have gardens all over the country. Or "The Place to Be"....................yeah right, freezing cold in winter and boiling hot in summer. Or "Victoria, On the Move", again, I'm pretty sure you can be on the move in a car all over the country as well.

Pointless, wasteful, taxpayer funded propaganda that has no purpose at all. Instead, how about spending that money making the roads at least acceptable.....................maybe then it would be "the place to be".
 

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When you got the bottle of GFX (Christmas edition), despite the claims of being exactly the same as GSF except for the cinnamon scent, the pH figure on the bottle reads 8.0 and not the 7.5 of normal GSF? Not sure what's going on there.

I'm still to try Reactivation Shampo RS, it hasn't landed in Australia yet.

As for Auto Shampoo AS, the simple answer is AVOID!



I have lifted the below from my Disappointment Thread (Post 6), and I also rated it 2 out of 10 in my Soap Shoot Out. I have bolded the key points.

.............Products like GSF, Green Star, Pol Star, Motorplast and Plast Star PSS are the volume sellers in the range, and for good reason. That popularity meant that for much of last year, the brand was sold out across multiple lines at all Australian retailers, GSF soap in particular. That lead me to trying another of their soaps, AS Auto Shampoo, and considering how much I loved GSF, I was keen to try this out. In addition to the product actually being available, Auto Shampoo was about $15 AUD cheaper for a 1 Liter bottle than GSF. When GSF did return to stock, the price difference blew out to $20 AUD.

Koch Chemie AS Auto Shampoo is a slightly alkaline leaning soap, registering a pH of 9.0. The higher pH offers added cleaning ability, despite that, Koch suggest that waxes and sealants wonā€™t be removed. AS is recommended for bucket and foam cannons, has high lubrication and features a ā€œfreshā€ lemon scent. All of that sounds great, but I canā€™t say much, if any of that, translated into real world.

Koch Chemie tout Auto Shampoo as being a high foaming ability. Now, Iā€™m not sure if the formula has been tweaked since then, but I did not observe anything I would call a high level of foam. My initial use started with the usual 100ml of soap in the foam cannon. Instantly, I was presented with thin, watering ā€œfoamā€. In reality, I would not call it foam, rather it was just coating the car in soapy water. I upped the amount of soap in the cannon a couple of times attempting to get it foam with no luck.

(Below, that is the "foam" it generated, extremely thin and watery.)

IMG-1670.jpg


With the higher pH, cleaning ability was decent and lubrication fair. The lemon scent was mildly pleasant. After that first use, I ended up finishing off the bottle by using it in my wheel bucket.

IMG-2200.jpg


From what I can gather, AS Auto Shampoo was probably designed for use in gantry washing systems, ie at a car wash. When you consider the way AS ā€œfoamsā€, it sort of aligns with the sort of soap dispensed from the spray lance at a car wash. I guess putting the product into a retail bottle was an attempt to capitalize on the popularity of the rest of the range. But then, they do make a point of highlighting the ā€œhigh foamingā€ aspect of the product, which led me to believe it could have been a good alternative to GSF.

I would definitely label Koch Chemie AS Auto Shampoo as a disappointment. I'm sure it has its applications where it does well, but attempting to live up to the overall brilliance of GSF was always going to be a challenge. Sadly, it fell well short.

If nothing else, AS proves that no single brand produces a full line of winners. And this is why I try so many different products, weeding out the duds from the gems.
Ah, thanks for the response. I missed AS in the disappointment thread, I was thinking it was a new product as I haven't seen it til recently.

I have only used GFX once so far but I like it, I mixed with Greenstar to make a foaming pre soak for my car to remove winter grime. It gave some suds and smells fantastic. I am anxious to try it for my "Christmas in July" wash this summer LOL.

I also want to try RS as well, I have heard it is way more potent than Descale. I bought a bottle but haven't had an occastion to use it yet. I like Descale a lot, may keep RS as a heavy hitter for when I really need it or dilute down appropriately..

As for GSF, I do like it, but it isn't my absolute top pick. Reset would get that honor. DIY Incredible suds is moving up the list really fast as well. It is extremely thick and concentrated but does do what it says, "Incredible Suds". My other faves in my rotation are NV snow and Gyeon Bathe. I favor snow over bathe but I do like them both equally.

Another one I want to try when it is released here is S0.03. I have heard it is a foam and rinse sealant that applies like their Protector Wax. I like PW a lot, but if S0.03 is more Si02 based that would be a winner for me.
 
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Ah, thanks for the response. I missed AS in the disappointment thread, I was thinking it was a new product as I haven't seen it til recently.

I have only used GFX once so far but I like it, I mixed with Greenstar to make a foaming pre soak for my car to remove winter grime. It gave some suds and smells fantastic. I am anxious to try it for my "Christmas in July" wash this summer LOL.

I also want to try RS as well, I have heard it is way more potent than Descale. I bought a bottle but haven't had an occastion to use it yet. I like Descale a lot, may keep RS as a heavy hitter for when I really need it or dilute down appropriately..

As for GSF, I do like it, but it isn't my absolute top pick. Reset would get that honor. DIY Incredible suds is moving up the list really fast as well. It is extremely thick and concentrated but does do what it says, "Incredible Suds". My other faves in my rotation are NV snow and Gyeon Bathe. I favor snow over bathe but I do like them both equally.

Another one I want to try when it is released here is S0.03. I have heard it is a foam and rinse sealant that applies like their Protector Wax. I like PW a lot, but if S0.03 is more Si02 based that would be a winner for me.
Funny, I've been using GFX over summer! :wink:

Be careful with Reactivation shampoo, its pH 1.0, where Descale is around pH 3.7.................

IMG-4487.jpg


Incredible Suds is also moving up my list too, mainly because it rinses away so easily, which is super helpful on larger vehicles with lots of panels joins and grill openings.
 

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The Jaaaaaag's turn today!

The tyres were scrubbed with P&S Undressed, Wheels and paint cleaned with the delightful Shine Supply Shift.

Post wash drying via the new EGO stubby attachment...............

IMG-0906.jpg


IMG-0909.jpg


While the aftermarket has mostly catered to this need with various 3D printed options, this is EGO acknowledging that a market exists for their blowers being used for car detailing. Compared to the 3D printed option which I have been using, the EGO unit has an integrated rubber tip and quick release lever to easily remove it from the blower. The 3D printed- versions were basically locked onto the blower and needed a special touch to remove. Even though its not needed, I fitted the green silicone blower band to mine, it just looks better that way!

Drying Aid was via Obsessed Garage, which works really well with Gyeon Pure EVO. Invisible Glass took care of the interior and exterior glass, the rest of the interior treated to a new product...................

https://autobuff.com.au/products/ethos-interior-detailer

IMG-0916.jpg


Two things I immediately liked about this all-in-one interior detailer, the coconut scent and the natural/OEM finish it leaves behind. Considering the mild consistency of the product and its UV inhibitors, I expected this to be smeary on gloss trims and screens, but that didn't play out. So not only does it finish down so well, it can be used across multiple surfaces without issue. Win-Win.

Finally, the tyres were dressed using the brilliant Adam's Graphene. What stands out today was using the new Maxshine Curved Grip XL brush. There are two versions of this brush, both with interchangeable heads, one being the soft synthetic, and this mixed bristle version. Having used and been impressed with the synthetic version, it's best used on 40 and higher profile tyres. This mixed bristle version is better can accommodate lower profile sidewalls like the Jaguar's......................

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/maxshine-curved-grip-xl-detailing-brush-mixed-bristle-red

IMG_0878.jpg


Synthetic version.................

IMG_0888.jpg


Mixed version...................

IMG_0897.jpg


IMG-0917.jpg


IMG-0921.jpg


I can safely say this is one of THE BEST ways to apply tyre dressing. In fact, that statement applies to both of these brushes. In both cases, because of the density of bristles, the dressing is easily distributed across the sidewall and into all the groves, but those bristles also mean a follow up knock-down wipe is simply not required.

For the most part, I have been using brushes rather than foam applicators for tyre dressings for a while now, it negates the need to wear gloves and is overall less messy. The only drawback with the two brushes above is the $27 price compared to a $3.00 foam applicator. However, as many would know, foam starts to get pretty grotty in short order, these brushes will be far more durable and can actually be washed out if desired.

And finally, some more seat time in the XR8........................

IMG-0928.jpg


IMG-0936.jpg
 
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Every time I have leave, there is a list of things I HAVE to do and things I WANT to do. Well, today I ticked off everything on that list, the last two being in the HAVE to do camp, so even more satisfying. So, I'm now at the tinkering stage.

First of cab off the rank, a quick oil change and spark plug change on the Atom edger. I love this little Honda engine, its runs so nicely, uses very little fuel and burns no oil. The 12-month-old oil came out golden, the plug looked beautiful. I also find there is a higher level of precision with the way parts fit together compared to the Briggs and Krohler stuff.

IMG-3055.jpg


I also bit the bullet and decided to change the XR6's battery. The date scribe on the old battery was from 2013, it tested ok for voltage but was down on CCA. It was boarder line, so I just replaced it, ten years on a battery is good enough for me.

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The same guy who replaced the XR8's battery a few months ago worked on the XR6 today, he remembered me, or more to the point, remembered the spotless car..........."I don't want to touch it". That's the best compliment someone can give me, and it also generally means they know it's not just another Corolla or Thailux, that they will take extra care. Again, new battery was $200 cash, drive in, drive out.

And am I concerned about having a GM battery in my Ford? No, because it means I have finally gotten rid of that pink eyesore the old battery presented. Why they chose that colour is beyond me...................

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Great battery though, it went near 11 years, and probably would have went further if I didn't jump early.

Last little task, cleaning up the old brake dust shields I removed back in October from the XR6. I sand, clean and ready for a coat of paint. This is before painting, the flat black is not to my liking, so the second coat I will go to satin black.

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Will they go back on the car? Who knows, I'll wrap them up and store them away, ready to refit in another 15 years.
 
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DFB5.0

DFB5.0

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Spent more than hour messing around with this Diva today. Actually, I've spent more than a few hours messing about with this Diva over the last week.....................

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When I bought this mower (second hand), it was a strong runner and would rev up quite nicely under load like the VSX/VEX versions of this engine do. Except, for some reason not long after, it had fallen back to about 2800 rpm. Not enough to cause it struggle through taller grass, but with no load, these should be running at about 3300 rpm at full throttle and then spur up to about 4000 rpm when loaded. This week, I finally looked into it further.

First step, I started trying different weight and length carburetor springs. Actually, there are two springs within these G4 carbs, a short and long version, the former is what controls the governed engine speed. Over time, these can lose tension, so sometimes a replacement can sure over or under revving.

https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-carburetor-spring-long-type/

This can be accessed two ways, either remove the side cover, or remove via the spring access cap (figure 3 below), which is the easier way to do it as you generally don't have to remove the impulse line. After trying a few different springs with no improvement, I even tried putting a spacer washer between the cap and spring, which lifted the revs but made it erratic and surgy.

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I also checked and tried the different settings of the poppet valve (figure 2 above). This was Victa's way of adjusting the carb for different applications, this engine was used on mowers, edgers, slashers, yard vacuums, even as an outboard boat motor. Again, no effect.

I then removed the blade carrier to access the exhaust outlet, thinking it could have been choked up. But it was mostly clear.

I then ordered a used replacement carb, throttle and intake snorkel tube assembly. I have no use for the carb.......... actually, I'm going to teach myself how to rebuild these things with it. What I needed was the replacement hose and larger air filter inlet adaptor unique to the VSX/VEX engine as the original was cracked. The idea being it was leaking and preventing it from running properly.

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Typically, to replace the throttle cable and intake snorkel, you need to disassemble the carb to unhook the cable from the carburetor throttle cam, this allows you to remove the tubing from the cable that runs through it. But I didn't want to pull the carb to bits, so I did it the "hard" way by taking the throttle and air cleaner assembly off, unhooked the cable from the lever (which required the removal of the orange plastic t-handle), unhooked the tube from the carb and fed the cable out. I then put replacement back on in reverse order.

I started it up and now we were dealing with about 3100 rpm. I then got cocky and decided to try a different spring to bring it up to the magic 3300 rpm number. In the process, I accidentally removed the white carb cap, no big deal, I cleaned it and easily snapped it back into place. I stared it up and whaaaaaaam! The thing shot to over 4200 rpm..........to much!! I then cycled through the springs and still, it was running too hard.

From here, I also trialed dialing the poppit valve to the slower A position, but it still wanted to take off. Earlier in the piece, I had also checked and blew out the impulse line to no effect, which is another governing element to the carb. So now I'm contending with a leak somewhere, be that the crankcase/starter o-ring or the intake manifold/carb o-ring. Or maybe a stuck decompressor.

I suspect that all along, the white cap was not seated properly and was causing it to under rev. Now I have an over revving engine that just wont settle down. I can run it part throttle no worries and have it sitting nicely at about 3000 to 3200 rpm, but beyond that, I'm frightened it'll throw a rod. I was actually getting this mower fixed up to take to work so we can start scalping a particular section of lawn. But I can't hand this machine over to that particular employee, he'll blow the thing up in no time.

While I love these engines, I have always said they can be Diva's. And so this one has proved. These are incredibly strong and long-lasting engines, the block and cylinder made from cast-iron, but they need all the ducks lined up to run correctly. They also drink lots of fuel and make a lot of noise. But nothing will stop them when the going gets tough.

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Here's one that is actually running properly..........................



On the plus side, I did fix the Rover Combat this afternoon, adjusting the throttle cable to properly engage the choke for cold starts. You win some, you lose some................
 
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Car wise, it was take two at getting the XR6 back into to storage for a few weeks.

The wheels were given a quick wash with soapy water (3D Pink), then a rinse-less wash using Absolute and "Clean Maker" for the drying aid.

This is why I love Sensation, in the sun it glows!

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After a trip to the dreaded green shed for a can of satin black paint, I applied the second coat on the old dust shields. The flat paint actually looked quite nice after drying.

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After the second coat has cured, I'll wrap and store them in bubble wrap.
 

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@DFB5.0 , I am really considering doing a proper ceramic coat on my daily driver this spring. I have Can coat on it now which is great, but longevity leaves some to be desired on a car that drives the mileage I do and sits outside 24/7. I am thinking of staying with the Gyeon line. Either Pure or MOHS. But, I have been looking and really like the look of NV Evo. I love all the NV products I currently have (Purge, Purify, Boost V2, Snow, Snow+). Was wondering if you have any additional insight on these coatings. I know Sandro with Car craft loves the NV coating, I have heard wonderful things about Gyeon as well. Another option is DIY detail coating, probably the 3 year Graphene version...
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