Sponsored

What’s the proper way to ground this?

AnthonyA1234

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Threads
67
Messages
380
Reaction score
99
Location
Florida
First Name
Anthony
Vehicle(s)
2019 Bullitt, 1992 Mustang GT
Doing a wire tuck on my fox body mustang. I relocated the starter solenoid and now I have to make new holes for the screws that mount it which are also where it grounds. The problem is that people told me just putting self tapping screws in there will not be enough. I was told I should grind the metal down to bare metal. Where I’m confused is how should I treat the bare metal after so that it doesn’t rust? It’s not like I can just spray paint over it, since there will be parts under the solenoid that the paint won’t reach. Lmk how you guys think I could handle this

IMG_7330.jpeg

as you can see the solenoid has mounting holes on the top and bottom. This is where I would grind down to bare metal under . But how would I treat that after so that it doesn’t rust??
Sponsored

 

Inthehighdesert

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Threads
45
Messages
3,489
Reaction score
3,879
Location
NM
First Name
Charlie
Vehicle(s)
2020 HE GT350R, 2022 HE Gt500 Cftp
I would make that ground longer and connect it to the main chassis ground. I would not just expose bare metal and bolt it down. If I remember correctly on the old fox bodys there was main ground behind the block on the drivers side. The engine was grounded from there to the fire wall as well. You could also pick a good spot and basically stud the chassis and ground it that way as well.
 
OP
OP
AnthonyA1234

AnthonyA1234

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Threads
67
Messages
380
Reaction score
99
Location
Florida
First Name
Anthony
Vehicle(s)
2019 Bullitt, 1992 Mustang GT
I would make that ground longer and connect it to the main chassis ground. I would not just expose bare metal and bolt it down. If I remember correctly on the old fox bodys there was main ground behind the block on the drivers side. The engine was grounded from there to the fire wall as well. You could also pick a good spot and basically stud the chassis and ground it that way as well.
I think you misunderstood, I’m talking about the screws that mount the starter solenoid itself, as those ground the solenoid. From the factory, they are just screwed into the fender apron inside the engine bay
 

Rapid Red

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2019
Threads
45
Messages
5,078
Reaction score
4,099
Location
Woodstock GA
First Name
Greg
Vehicle(s)
GT PP2 RaceRed Roush> Steeda> preformance
Vehicle Showcase
2
The wire laying on the fender well, see the teeth, looks like a star washer? Those will penetrate paint, just fine.

Remove one of the solenoid mounting screws. Sandwich the wire terminal between the back of the solenoid & the brace you have your hand on.

"screwed into the fender apron inside the engine bay" reliable & work long time.

" grind the metal down to bare metal" > some sand paper 180 sand a spot the size of a dime - nickel.

" Parts under the solenoid" that plate has a rustproof coating.
Painting once you have the ground secured, spot some bare metal.
A few quick passes with some paint using a brush will fix that right up.
 

Ruiner46

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2016
Threads
15
Messages
447
Reaction score
261
Location
Colorado
Vehicle(s)
2016 CO GT PP
I wouldn't overthink it. That ground isn't there for the starter, it's just there for the trigger wire that goes hot when you turn the key to start. It's not high current. Hell you could probably use an equal gauge or slightly larger wire as the small red wire and route it to some other ground and connect to the solenoid mounting screw. If it were me, I'd just use the self tapping screws and test it.
 

Sponsored

OP
OP
AnthonyA1234

AnthonyA1234

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Threads
67
Messages
380
Reaction score
99
Location
Florida
First Name
Anthony
Vehicle(s)
2019 Bullitt, 1992 Mustang GT
The wire laying on the fender well, see the teeth, looks like a star washer? Those will penetrate paint, just fine.

Remove one of the solenoid mounting screws. Sandwich the wire terminal between the back of the solenoid & the brace you have your hand on.

"screwed into the fender apron inside the engine bay" reliable & work long time.

" grind the metal down to bare metal" > some sand paper 180 sand a spot the size of a dime - nickel.

" Parts under the solenoid" that plate has a rustproof coating.
Painting once you have the ground secured, spot some bare metal.
A few quick passes with some paint using a brush will fix that right up.
So just making sure I understand correctly…
1. Sand down around the spots the solenoid screws will be going
2. Mount the solenoid
3. Put the other wire terminal ground on the same screw that mounts the solenoid sandwiched between the car and solenoid
4. Touch up with paint any bare metal that’s sticking out
 

Rapid Red

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2019
Threads
45
Messages
5,078
Reaction score
4,099
Location
Woodstock GA
First Name
Greg
Vehicle(s)
GT PP2 RaceRed Roush> Steeda> preformance
Vehicle Showcase
2
That will work fine,

The fact that the mounting brace having 2 holes drilled. The inside of the holes are clean metal & you can by-pass the sanding and paint touch up, & have a solid ground.

I just want to mention this, the whole car & its parts have a common ground. Achieved via the fasteners & bolts, the only places that do not are plastic parts & parts that have a rubber vibration cancelation mount.. think radiator.
 
OP
OP
AnthonyA1234

AnthonyA1234

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Threads
67
Messages
380
Reaction score
99
Location
Florida
First Name
Anthony
Vehicle(s)
2019 Bullitt, 1992 Mustang GT
Thanks guys!
Sponsored

 
 




Top