UPR DVCC - Not a drop (RESOLVED)

[17Stallion]

I have a ball valve on mine. Easy peezy.

Fumoto valve on mine. Drain it every couple of weeks and a get little less than an ounce. Get about the same before as well as after tuning. Haven't noticed a difference from the tune. Spirited driving does seem to put more oil in the can. LOL

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[RubyRed15]

UPDATE: The can was deemed defective (air leak) and replaced under warranty by UPR. I will be reinstalling this weekend or next, and I will update in a month.

Fumoto valve on mine.

I have a ball valve on mine. Easy peezy.

Link to these valves? I love this idea.

 

[17Stallion]

UPDATE: The can was deemed defective (air leak) and replaced under warranty by UPR. I will be reinstalling this weekend or next, and I will update in a month.

Link to these valves? I love this idea.

Benefit of working with a quality company - they take care of you.

You'll need the Fumoto valve F-107 and the Fumoto adapter ADP-710.

I put a Fumoto valve on my Dad's $140K RV. These things work great. Especially when the engine holds more than the drain pan can handle. LOL.

Or in the case of the catch can - in an awkward place. Only down side is they don't sell a valve that directly fits the catch can. You need the adapter

Check them out.

http://fumotousa.com/

 

[Marvinmadman]

1/8" NPT ball valve at any hardware store.

 

[17Stallion]

Pic of Fumoto valve on CC

Ball valve will be less expensive, but I prefer the Fumoto

 

[RubyRed15]

Thanks for the tips, guys.

 

[RubyRed15]

UPDATE

After getting the can replaced, I realized that I had a faulty check valve in the line that connects to the intake, allowing the can to be pressurized, and now that the can wasn't leaking, it was causing P04DB codes. UPR sent me a pair of replacement check valves that are cap-and-spring-based (instead of floating ball). After confirming they would hold at least 30psi, I replaced the bad check valve (which was a bitch, let me tell you), and then I noticed that the horrible oil stink was coming back, and realized that it was fuel/oil vapor permeating the Continental hoses. I did not even bother involving UPR, and found this Gates Barricade fuel line that is designed for low permeability, and replaced the hoses (and the second check valve). So far, no smell, but I'll wait a while yet before I declare full victory on the stink.

Thanks to 17Stallion and Marvinmadman, I also found this $6 air compressor tank drain at Lowe's that fits and works perfectly. You can see the 90 degree lever at the bottom of the can in the attachment. This should come standard, it's so simply perfect, and makes the job of draining so vastly easier (like 15 seconds in total). I highly recommend all CC owners make this upgrade!

The DVCC is finally working - I just drained a tablespoon of thin, reeking gunk out of it, after four weeks of light driving (probably more like two, because I've had pretty heavy travel since I set the reminder).

 

[Marvinmadman]

Glad you figured it out.

 

[Marvinmadman]

Side note, just changed my plugs and drained the DVCC. 4oz in 1,100 miles.

 

[stangs-R-me]

For my UPR DVCC drain, I used:
1/4 NPT x 3/8 NPT Brass Hex Nipple
3/8" Brass Ball Valve
3/8" NPT to 3/8" Hose Nipple
21.5" long length of 3/8" fuel line

Then zip-tie the end of the hose to the lower frame rail.

Stick a container under the end of the hose and open the ball valve. Leave it sit over night, then close BV.

Since the pics, I've since started jacking up the right front corner a bit and insert a piece of 4x4 cut to the perfect length under frame so my catch container will just slip under hose end without having to tip it as seen in picture.

Doug

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