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Trunk mounted ice tank vs. Killerchiller.

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Trying to decide on what route to go with. Pros and cons to both but trying to figure out if the coin is going to be heads or tails, lol.

My car is mostly a street car 2018 gt with stage 2 whipple and oversized heat exchanger. If im correct a larger coolant capacity would help slow heak soak when idling and doing a wot. at the track when people run ice what do you guys do? Drain the system and run straight water and ice???

For the killerchiller you run no heat exchanger but must run the a/c all the time right? So if my a/c system fails its pretty much unsafe to drive my car right???
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If the a/c goes out, the killer chiller is just allowing the coolant to pass through it. I’ve thought about running one if I don’t go with a centrifugal, running the supplied heat exchanger after the blower then going into the killer chiller and back to the blower. That way it’s getting cooled off some even without the a/c turned on. It won’t be sub-freezing temps like with the kc.
 
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If the a/c goes out, the killer chiller is just allowing the coolant to pass through it. I’ve thought about running one if I don’t go with a centrifugal, running the supplied heat exchanger after the blower then going into the killer chiller and back to the blower. That way it’s getting cooled off some even without the a/c turned on. It won’t be sub-freezing temps like with the kc.
I did here you can run the kc with the heat exchangers still but like you said the temps wont get as low. Supposedly the water passing through the heat exchanger will heat the water up as its still cooler than ambient. If i understand correctly. I have never ran a kc or ice tank. So im not up on how tobuse them properly. Hell, this is my first boosted car for that matter.
 

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There is an optional 3 way valve that can be installed which is meant to be used to bypass the heat exchanger or not. When you want full race mode, it bypasses the heat exchanger and gets you the coldest temperatures. When you don’t want the ac on or whatever reason, flip the bypass back and you be flowing through the heat exchanger now. They sell a manual or electronic valve which will do this. I went with a bigger heat exchanger but honestly thought about the killer chiller as well. Only thing is I don’t want to mess with the factory ac system.
 
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Messing with the a/c is my main hangup. Especially on a 18 up model that runs the new refrigerants and you have to cut and weld the hard line....
 

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Yup especially if you ever want to go back to stock. That’s why I left it alone.
 
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Well..... i guess in all reality to go back to stock all you would need is the line set and a recharge. Still that new refrigerant is to new to pick up at a auto department so i bet that part isnt cheap. I have a idea about that but it likely would be way to much BS and money to be honestly worth it.
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