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Garfy

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I know that the acceleration tests in TrackApps would show ET for the 0-60mph trial. My question is if you select the 1/4 mile test, does it display both ET and speed the car hit at 1/4 mile? Just curious because the manual doesn't have details about it and I'm still breaking in the engine (only 900 miles) so haven't tried it yet. Thanks!
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GeorgeC

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I know that the acceleration tests in TrackApps would show ET for the 0-60mph trial. My question is if you select the 1/4 mile test, does it display both ET and speed the car hit at 1/4 mile? Just curious because the manual doesn't have details about it and I'm still breaking in the engine (only 900 miles) so haven't tried it yet. Thanks!
Yes it give both et and mph put a few more miles on it before you do that though.. It also gives you 60 ft time, 0-30, 0-60 I think it give you some other info I'm not sure of what that was but after you do it you can look that up. Don't be upset if the numbers you get seem disapointing because they will improve over time.
 
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Garfy

Garfy

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Yes it give both et and mph put a few more miles on it before you do that though.. It also gives you 60 ft time, 0-30, 0-60 I think it give you some other info I'm not sure of what that was but after you do it you can look that up. Don't be upset if the numbers you get seem disapointing because they will improve over time.
Thanks George; I just tried the 0-60 since it's not a long acceleration test and it only clocked 6.1 seconds, but I expected that because I had my wife with me, I have the full spare & jack option, have jacking rails installed (all extra weight plus I had the A/C on, not sure if the PCM will disengage the clutch if you are WOT) and I'm running regular 87 octane instead of the 92+ that the car is optimized for. I figure that by the time I'm at 3000 miles and flush out the tank so I have nothing but premium unleaded in it, I expect a much better time. I won't do the 1/4 mile until I've got 3000 miles on it for sure.
 

FruityJudy

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Thanks George; I just tried the 0-60 since it's not a long acceleration test and it only clocked 6.1 seconds, but I expected that because I had my wife with me, I have the full spare & jack option, have jacking rails installed (all extra weight plus I had the A/C on, not sure if the PCM will disengage the clutch if you are WOT) and I'm running regular 87 octane instead of the 92+ that the car is optimized for. I figure that by the time I'm at 3000 miles and flush out the tank so I have nothing but premium unleaded in it, I expect a much better time. I won't do the 1/4 mile until I've got 3000 miles on it for sure.
You should have 10 quarter mile runs before 1000 miles or you aint breaking it in right and your car will develop a tick...
 

gismo4

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Thanks George; I just tried the 0-60 since it's not a long acceleration test and it only clocked 6.1 seconds, but I expected that because I had my wife with me, I have the full spare & jack option, have jacking rails installed (all extra weight plus I had the A/C on, not sure if the PCM will disengage the clutch if you are WOT) and I'm running regular 87 octane instead of the 92+ that the car is optimized for. I figure that by the time I'm at 3000 miles and flush out the tank so I have nothing but premium unleaded in it, I expect a much better time. I won't do the 1/4 mile until I've got 3000 miles on it for sure.
Did you just call your wife fat? 😁
 

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I Bleed Ford Blue

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No, he didn't, but his wife will read it that way. He better hope she never sees this thread.
 
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Zathras

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Anyone have any idea how accurate the Track Apps results are, compared to the ET/MPH results you'd get at a real 1/4 or 1/8 mile track with timing equipment?
 

Kleiss1

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My 2018 base GT track apps stopped working all together.
After posting here and checking manual to no avail I went to a dealer near by and discovered that only one key fob activates the apps. Service guy called it the teenager app elimination fob so if your kid barrows the car no line lock burnouts.
 
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Garfy

Garfy

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My 2018 base GT track apps stopped working all together.
After posting here and checking manual to no avail I went to a dealer near by and discovered that only one key fob activates the apps. Service guy called it the teenager app elimination fob so if your kid barrows the car no line lock burnouts.
I believe that's configurable. I think it was called MyKey? The manual said I could designate one of my key fobs with restrictions on it so certain things can't be changed (like activating TrackApps). I know on mine, I had to disable Adaptive Cruise and I think the Precollision system so that TrackApps was not "grayed out" and I could actually use it.
 
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Garfy

Garfy

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You should have 10 quarter mile runs before 1000 miles or you aint breaking it in right and your car will develop a tick...
I don't know about that. I know metallurgy and such has improved a lot since the 70's but I still think you shouldn't drive it harshly in the early going in order to allow everything to "wear in" properly. That's probably a reason why dealerships use synthetic blends instead of full synthetic because they do want some friction to remain in order for stuff to mesh in nicely. I've been an automotive tech for over 44 years (retired now but still working on them) and despite being unemployed still renewed my ASE Master w/L1 in late 2019. Have to keep up with stuff.

Interestingly, despite obvious metallurgical improvements, back in the 70's when I tore down my 71 Mustang's 302 to overhaul the engine after street-strip racing for a few years, I found that there was no ridge at the top of the cylinders and after removing the pistons, I noticed a very faint cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. Despite not having full synthetics back then, it's obvious the pattern was leftover from when the factory bored the cylinders and honed it to form the cross-hatch in order for the rings to wear in properly. Such a difference from engines in the mid-50's that did have a ridge that required a ridge cutter in order to remove the pistons.
 

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GeorgeC

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Thanks George; I just tried the 0-60 since it's not a long acceleration test and it only clocked 6.1 seconds, but I expected that because I had my wife with me, I have the full spare & jack option, have jacking rails installed (all extra weight plus I had the A/C on, not sure if the PCM will disengage the clutch if you are WOT) and I'm running regular 87 octane instead of the 92+ that the car is optimized for. I figure that by the time I'm at 3000 miles and flush out the tank so I have nothing but premium unleaded in it, I expect a much better time. I won't do the 1/4 mile until I've got 3000 miles on it for sure.
Woah get some premium in that car. My first 0-60 was about 5.8 which really upset me because my 2016 v6 did it in 5.4. But after learning to launch it and putting better tires on it I'm doing consistent 4.6 0-60. I'm still doing that now in the cold weather which amazes me cause I'm still running my summer tires. I expect when the weather warms up I should be able to get it to between 4.2 to 4.4 0-60 time. My biggest problem is my 60 foot time is 2.3 in my v6 it was 2.0 flat. Once the 60 foot time comes down the 0-60 time will come down also. Enjoy your new car..
 
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Garfy

Garfy

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Woah get some premium in that car. My first 0-60 was about 5.8 which really upset me because my 2016 v6 did it in 5.4. But after learning to launch it and putting better tires on it I'm doing consistent 4.6 0-60. I'm still doing that now in the cold weather which amazes me cause I'm still running my summer tires. I expect when the weather warms up I should be able to get it to between 4.2 to 4.4 0-60 time. My biggest problem is my 60 foot time is 2.3 in my v6 it was 2.0 flat. Once the 60 foot time comes down the 0-60 time will come down also. Enjoy your new car..
Thanks George. I'll eventually get premium in the tank once I get it broken in. Since the manual said that it only requires 87 octane, I'll run that until it's broken in (about 3,000 miles according to the manual; assumed that in the oil consumption will level off at that mileage). Gas prices in Hawaii are pretty high so it makes a difference. Once it's broken in, it'll get a steady diet of premium. I don't drive it hard during break-in so figure it's ok (although frankly I'm still amazed an engine w/12:1 compression can run regular unleaded; that's the difference between "old school" engines of the 70's vs. today's computer controlled ignition, fuel and variable cam timing).
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