These bad boyz have arrived (lightweight rotors, raised lateral links): Will share impressions soon

[BmacIL]

I also recommend for those considering the lateral links to get the tension link with bearings as well. Or use the OEM tension links and get the bearing pressed in. Get rid of that horrid bushing that twists and binds. After both sets of arms steering is excellent, and I like how it rides better than before.

And the feel under braking is much improved because the geometric change is significantly reduced.

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[BmacIL]

bump steer, they said it would take a long time and recommended I adjust the spacers myself based off of driving experience.

I generally agree with this. Perfect is the enemy of very good in this case. If it's off by 1/16" it will be hardly noticeable.

 

[Ryan1112]

As for charging $750 for alignment and bump steer, they must have really dialed in your bump steer kit. You're thrilled with the car and that's what really matters. I just got my car aligned yesterday at a performance shop that specializes in suspension and when I had talked to the shop about dialing in the bump steer, they said it would take a long time and recommended I adjust the spacers myself based off of driving experience. I'm sure I could have pushed for it, but then I would have ended up paying for it big time, as this shop's hour rate isn't cheap.

So I had a bumpsteer kit on my 2005 Mustang. I installed the kit and took it to get it aligned and had it pretty close already by using Steeda's directions. I got to watch at the shop that set it up. They gave it an alignment and then used a wench to load the suspension about an inch so they could see if there was a toe change. They had to adjust the kit a few times to get it so there wasn't a change under load. The steering feel during hard cornering was incredible for a 2005 after it was done. If I remember correctly it was maybe an extra half hour to a hour of labor so it was more than a normal alignment but it wasn't any $750.

 

[2015Etrac]

555 4906, but I recommend you go for 555 4915 because it includes the bumpsteer kit.

Do they sell the 555 4915 kit with bearings instead of bushings? Or do you have to assemble the kit separately if you want to go this route, but with bearings?

 

[moffetts]

Do they sell the 555 4915 kit with bearings instead of bushings? Or do you have to assemble the kit separately if you want to go this route, but with bearings?

No, it’s the tension links that have the bearing/bushing option.

 

[Bluemustang]

I just installed the Steeda extended ball joint lateral links, tension links with bearings, and bumpsteer kit and agree with this. It's a very accurate way to describe the change. If you don't perform this upgrade, you won't notice what you're missing out on until you do upgrade. I've been lowered an inch for around 3 years and this is the first time I felt like I've gotten my front end to how it should be.

As for charging $750 for alignment and bump steer, they must have really dialed in your bump steer kit. You're thrilled with the car and that's what really matters. I just got my car aligned yesterday at a performance shop that specializes in suspension and when I had talked to the shop about dialing in the bump steer, they said it would take a long time and recommended I adjust the spacers myself based off of driving experience. I'm sure I could have pushed for it, but then I would have ended up paying for it big time, as this shop's hour rate isn't cheap.

Now to convince myself to get two piece rotors...

Exactly, you don't know what you're missing out on until you do it. I drove around lowered for about same amount of time as you and had the same experience. Well said.

When these arms were first released, I was skeptical. How could this make such a difference? Some posts by a member here convinced me. Once I understood what was happening everything clicked.

For anyone on the fence, read into the roll center and what role it plays in how the suspension operates. Look up what happens to the dynamic when you lower the ride height of the car. For all you out there with aftermarket lowering springs, your springs will work better with these control arms! The system will function more like it's intended. The suspension, the system, will function better when the geometry is correct.

 

[2015Etrac]

No, it’s the tension links that have the bearing/bushing option.

Thanks. I wonder when their next big sale is.

 

[Bluemustang]

No, it’s the tension links that have the bearing/bushing option.

I believe the PP lateral arm already comes with a bearing but could be mistaken. Non-PP cars like mine do not. The tension link/arm is the one with the commonly aftermarket bearing option.

 

[valentinoamoro]

I just installed the Steeda extended ball joint lateral links, tension links with bearings, and bumpsteer kit and agree with this. It's a very accurate way to describe the change. If you don't perform this upgrade, you won't notice what you're missing out on until you do upgrade. I've been lowered an inch for around 3 years and this is the first time I felt like I've gotten my front end to how it should be.

As for charging $750 for alignment and bump steer, they must have really dialed in your bump steer kit. You're thrilled with the car and that's what really matters. I just got my car aligned yesterday at a performance shop that specializes in suspension and when I had talked to the shop about dialing in the bump steer, they said it would take a long time and recommended I adjust the spacers myself based off of driving experience. I'm sure I could have pushed for it, but then I would have ended up paying for it big time, as this shop's hour rate isn't cheap.

Now to convince myself to get two piece rotors...

The lighter rotors effect is hard to notice in slow speeds - you need to drive fast due to the gyroscope effect. Having said that, 1) if you are bothered by the 54% front end weight bias (I was) 2) prioritize lowering rotating unsprung mass, which also is far off the steering axis (I was), our GT's have so much easy unsprung rotating weight to shed it's not even funny between the wheels, tires and rotors. Rotors obviously are closer to the hub so have less of an effect Vs wheels.

Ex: The GT350R has wheels slightly lighter than mine (but wider). I believe the Girodisc rotors on the GT350s dont shed any appreciable weight. On the GT, moving from 32/34 pound wheels to 20 pound wheels while going wider in the front is just nuts. So is shedding 9 pounds per rotor! 21 pounds per corner! With lighter tires (Michelin PSS is 3 or 4 pounds per tire lighter Vs Indy 500), you loose a total 24 or so pounds per front corner Vs OEM. It's a LOT. The rotors though are expensive and may not be worth it to most - esp since I found the stock brakes in the PP to be awesome.

All of these have more impact Vs aluminum knuckles and links.

 

[2015Etrac]

Speaking of weight savings, is anyone running an Antigravity battery? They save about 25lbs off the front end of the car. I know the battery on these cars isn't as far forward in the engine bay as they use to be, but 25lbs is still a pretty good amount of weight. I'm also planning to go with the 2 piece rotors and a carbon fiber driveshaft, eventually. With lighter wheels, rotors, and battery you're looking at about 65lbs off the front of the car.

 

[qtrracer]

FWIW, I bump steered my Fox chassis. Very involved, time consuming process. And I had to buy the tool to do it. On the fox I had to remove the C/O springs in order to get the suspesion in full droop, and meassuered along the entire range - both sides. Then put it all back together. After that expereince, it's surprising it only cost $750.

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