T stat change-drain rad or just tank

[Robottrainer]

What exactly are you trying to gain from putting in a lower thermostat? How is the car being used?

As other have said, and I’ve posted the same in quite a few other threads on here, the hype behind dropping in a lower t-stat in a computer controlled car is a total waste of time for ANY vehicle just used on the street - it’s a myth that has a following…and is only making the vendors and aftermarket companies $$$. In the 1930’s up to about 1985ish, yes, totally removing the T-stat or putting in a lower one did make some difference but only because the car was NOT being controlled by a computer - it was still a raw engine with absolutely NO link backs or tie in to ANY computerized box with engineered programming.

Most of those YT vids are popped out there just for the owner to get YT bucks, that’s it. They can tell you they’ll gain 50hp from just opening their car door and 100 heeple will believe it….

Listen to those who are telling you it’s not only a waste of $$$ but a waste of time/energy playing with the thermostat.

If you’re having operational cooling issues, then you need to investigate what’s causing those cooling issues. For a street S550, be it a “tuned Roush”, a GT350/350R, GT500, Mach 1, etc - they’re all engineered to run without any cooling issues for everyday use for almost any climate and any driving condition. These cars go through rigorous testing and extreme cold/heat cycling for years before being let loose for public consumption.

IF the car is going to be used extensively for extreme track use and is an extreme high HP S550 with forced induction - then sure other parameters should be and must be changed to meet that high HP application and/or extreme use.

Street driving - no, there’s absolutely no need to tamper with the thermostats.

You want better cooling?
- Go bigger radiator

- Go high flow water pump

- Put a smaller water pump pulley on to spin the pump faster (if a smaller pulley exists). Ford did this with the 93 Cobra and I’m sure they have done the same with other vehicles in later years.

- if you’re in an environment where temps do not go below 60*, change your coolant mix to be more along the lines of 70/30, where 70 is more water. The only purpose of coolant is to offer lubrication, corrosion protection, AND to prevent freezing…. A 70/30 mix is more then good for most applications where the glycol properties are still effective.

- Rad fluid “coolers”, such as Redline’s Water Wetter is a race proven fluid additive that offers cooling properties to the existing coolant. Watch out for other Snake Oil products that claim the same but don’t do anything at all.

- Fan control (as mentioned) - change existing programmed fan on/off temps OR bypass the PCM and add in your own controller to the existing fans that will do the same. The same applies here though, you don’t want the fans coming in too early or staying on too long because that will affect CHT’s and engine operation in a negative manner too.

- Factury electric fan CFM’s not enough? Upgrade to an aftermarket electric fan system where the CFM’s are greater than stock.

- Dispose of the factory hood liner

- Vent the hood; many M6G members have either purchased an aftermarket vented hood or have modified their existing with GT500-like venting systems.

That very good info. With the 13 Shelby I had, I did the 170 thermostat and changed the fan parameter. I found that this kept the engine temps around 180 degrees on the highway and 185 in city traffic. I also found the IAT2 a stayed in the 130 range at idle and about 10 degrees hotter than ambient when driving

My current GT with a Roush stage 2 kit runs anywhere from 195 Ect to 200Ect in traffic and 190 on the highway. The CHT is around 10 degrees higher. I find the IAT2 a bit higher on this even when moving. Obviously this isn't the same as the Shelby set up but my I figured if I can get 10 degrees out of a stat and and fan parameter change, it couldn't hurt.

I agree with non computer controlled cars, the big rad, big fan lower stat is essentially, but even with a computer, it will still react by closing down the throttle and or removing timing, which, even on the street, will effect performance.

Having said that, is it worth the trouble? Probably not.

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[Rolls]

Can it read directly from the PCM? I know in my case, their is no file that you can read since Roush does everything through the internet.

Yes you simply read the tune out of the vehicle with our software. That simple.