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Sway Bars & Supporting Mods

Geotoxic

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So I'm looking into some suspension upgrades and I've been told time and time again sway bars are the way to go.

Are all the aftermarket sway bars pretty much the same?

I'm leaning towards BMR since it already includes new bushings. Do I need aftermarket bushings?

Also, what else is required with sway bars? I know for my last car (RSX) the endlinks were prone to snapping with stiffer aftermarket bars.

Every mod I look into seems cheap at first but then it snowballs into something pricy :/
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Niz55

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I have the Steeda bars and bmr EndLinks. I actually bend one of my sway bar links so that is why I upgraded to bmr.

Pm me if you need work done on your ride. I am in Irvine.
 

Joshg120

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I don't know if there's much in terms of comparison between the bars that are available. I know the whiteline swaybars just came out and include a set of new endlinks for < $600 so that may be worth looking into.
 

tj@steeda

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Our bards include the bushings:

The Steeda sway bars have machined steel billet sway bar ends, whereas others on the market have coined ends. What does this mean? Our sway bar ends are machined out of billet steel round stock, in-house, on our multi-axis CNC lathes and go through hundreds of computer simulations to ensure the ultimate in strength and performance - this provides greater resistance to bending stresses, and has three major advantages:

These parts are less prone to cracking/fatigue failure on the ends themselves.
It also reduces unwanted deflection in the sway bar end. Excess deflection creates unwanted geometry changes, which physically changes your sway bar stiffness to a non-ideal rate.

With less unwanted deflection, our bars will 'wear out’ slower - any spring will eventually become softer over time as it is cycled through its life, our bars will maintain their designed rate for longer with less unwanted deflection.



Front Sway Bar diameter 1-3/8"
Rear Sway Bar diameter 1-1/8"
Improved handling, more stable cornering
Reduced body roll
Designed and manufactured in-house in the USA by Steeda
Competition and street-proven
Includes sway bar bushings
- See more at: http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-front-and-rear-sway-bar-kit-2015-555-1017/#sthash.6SzXJeRJ.dpuf

CAR SHOULD DRIVE LIKE THIS OUT OF THE FACTORY!
I spend Sunday installing Steeda's front and rear sway bars (with billet aluminum sway bar bushings) on my 2015 GT PP. This is in addition to the progressive springs and sub frame bushing supports that are already installed. The installation of the rear parts were easy while the front was more tedious but not impossible for the average mechanically inclined person. I opted for maximum stiffness on the sway bars for the best handling performance. visibly there is a huge difference in the side and quality of the sway bars. Steeda's are much more stout and the bushing are significantly stiffer, the mounts are lighter (based on the standard mounts that come with the sway bars) but a much better design.

The sub frame braces look like the perfect way to tie the IRS sub frame into the vehicle and "tighten things up". The brace connects near the jack points on each side to two points on the sub frame and one point in between creating a triangle for some serious stability. This is a tight fit so make sure you follow the instructions from Steeda and keep the bolts loose until things are set.

I haven't had the car on the track yet, but there is a huge difference in just daily driving. I've hit a couple of curves hard and the car seems to dive into them and there is much more confidence in the car. I hit a pretty sharp curve the last 2 days on my way to work and I don't feel any understeer at all (at least I can't tell) I was doing between 60-70 mph through the turn it just felt nice! All in all I made a great choice. Steeda should have sold these to ford during manufacturing and the car should drive like this out of the factory!
Best Regards,

TJ
 

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wildcatgoal

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Whiteline bars are solid bar and they will be stiffer as a result. Personally I don't see why Whiteline did that (but that's what their product description says).

I have Steeda bars. 4 adjustments in the front, 3 in the back. Most other's I've seen only have 3 adjustments in the front. Whether or not you'll actually every use the added adjustment capability of the Steeda bar is another thing... but... you got it.

In the end, you'll be happy with whatever swaybar setup you get excepting some eBay garbage you may happen to find somewhere.
 

NightmareMoon

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Swaybars are the poor man's springs.

If you're interesting in suspension mods, what are your goals?

Tires are absolutely the main factor for physical grip. Shocks have probably the largest impact after that. Beyond that, its shocks and springs.

IMHO, swaybars are the last thing to tune, after you've settled on your choice of shocks and springs. Swaybars do let you tune understeer/oversteer balance, and they can speed up transitions (which can both get you into trouble faster, and help you get out of trouble faster).

IMHO, Most aftermarket swaybars are really too stiff for factory Springs and shocks (BMR and Steeda I'm looking at you). They're fun because the car seems to transition faster, but you're actually sacrificing raw grip to get that responsiveness. If you're unwililng to lower the car on stiffer springs, sways can be a good compromise.

so back to the original question - what are your goals?
 
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Geotoxic

Geotoxic

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Swaybars are the poor man's springs.

If you're interesting in suspension mods, what are your goals?

Tires are absolutely the main factor for physical grip. Shocks have probably the largest impact after that. Beyond that, its shocks and springs.

IMHO, swaybars are the last thing to tune, after you've settled on your choice of shocks and springs. Swaybars do let you tune understeer/oversteer balance, and they can speed up transitions (which can both get you into trouble faster, and help you get out of trouble faster).

IMHO, Most aftermarket swaybars are really too stiff for factory Springs and shocks (BMR and Steeda I'm looking at you). They're fun because the car seems to transition faster, but you're actually sacrificing raw grip to get that responsiveness. If you're unwililng to lower the car on stiffer springs, sways can be a good compromise.

so back to the original question - what are your goals?
Main goals are spirited canyon runs and occasional track time.

I currently have mrr350 wheels with Michelin super sport and eibach springs. I'll upgrade shocks once the stock ones wear out.

My mods are all in my sig
 

NightmareMoon

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Main goals are spirited canyon runs and occasional track time.

I currently have mrr350 wheels with Michelin super sport and eibach springs. I'll upgrade shocks once the stock ones wear out.

My mods are all in my sig
If you've already got springs, then I could see some swaybars in your future, but the best advice I could give would be to go ahead and get the car to the track.

Do a two day HPDE event with instruction and then decide what mods will help the most based on your experiences at the track.

I would think camber plates would be next to get more front camber (so your tires won't roast the outside shoulders at the track). You're probably under-shocked at the moment with those springs. Hell, the factory car is under-shocked in my opinion.
 

402

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Whiteline is going on my car. They are on all our cars.
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