SVE R350 Wheel kit

[50 Deep]

I'm also interested.

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[JR369]

I will DM you.

Let’s just say there are already 5 GT350R owners with sets on order. Just awaiting the sample wheel to be completed before I post pics publicly. I have a teaser though.

You Sir have DM.

 

[Tomster]

@Niz55 , don't you have the lmr sve R350 wheels? If so, are you able to measure caliper clearance?

 

[NTB]

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[Tomster]

To me the key is comparable weight to CF or you are going to feel the difference in car behavior. The P51 set I got for street on my GT350 is fine for what it is, they are very light and look ok. Caliper clearance is not great (is ok) but you get what you pay for. Once I get the R I will make a decision to keep them or upgrade to something that checks that last box (caliper clearance). I am not sure since the price difference to the next level of wheels is almost not worth it unless I want to track them extensively which I will not.

And that is the issue with me. I'm not wanting to build a cars and coffee showpiece that has to have the best CNC forged wheels available that are track worthy. The car came with probably the best wheels that money can buy. I'll use them at the track. I want a set of reasonably priced wheels that fit the part and don't chew up my calipers.

I cant see how LMR wheels are of a lesser quality than the 6GR wheels. My only bitch with the 6GR (aside from customer service) is the caliper clearance. If LMR has that aspect of it corrected, it sounds like a no brainer to me.

My budget is in the 2 grand (plus) area. I cant justify spending the forged price for a simple street wheel.

 

[dwalker]

@Tomster, you can also use coupon code "LMR6" to get an additional 6% off that price as well.

 

[Tomster]

@Tomster, you can also use coupon code "LMR6" to get an additional 6% off that price as well.

Thank you. I may do that. I was just informed by an LMR owner that the clearance is about 5.25mm. That's quite a bit and I feel more than adequate.

 

[dwalker]

No problem!

Or if you order by the end of the day on January 1st you can use code "NEW19" and get 7% off.

 

[fpa1974]

And that is the issue with me. I'm not wanting to build a cars and coffee showpiece that has to have the best CNC forged wheels available that are track worthy. The car came with probably the best wheels that money can buy. I'll use them at the track. I want a set of reasonably priced wheels that fit the part and don't chew up my calipers.

I cant see how LMR wheels are of a lesser quality than the 6GR wheels. My only bitch with the 6GR (aside from customer service) is the caliper clearance. If LMR has that aspect of it corrected, it sounds like a no brainer to me.

My budget is in the 2 grand (plus) area. I cant justify spending the forged price for a simple street wheel.

I totally get it. I had similar reqs. I chose what I did because they fit the budget, they are light (same as the signature ones in the 21lbs range) and look fine. The only compromise is the caliper clearance (I believe it is around 3.5mm or so).

To me the best solution might be to get a used set of fully forged ones (LMR ones are too heavy IMO) - that is the only thing that fits my budget and all other parameters.

 

[Niz55]

I am away right now from my car and can't measure the clearance. But I have never had a rock get trapped between the caliper and the wheels and I have taken off my wheels many times and not even a single rock chip on the caliper or the wheels. Plenty of clearance.

 

[50 Deep]

I totally get it. I had similar reqs. I chose what I did because they fit the budget, they are light (same as the signature ones in the 21lbs range) and look fine. The only compromise is the caliper clearance (I believe it is around 3.5mm or so).

To me the best solution might be to get a used set of fully forged ones (LMR ones are too heavy IMO) - that is the only thing that fits my budget and all other parameters.

Don't forget, they also have been known to crack. The issue with a spun forged wheel being so light, is that they do not have enough material to support the loads of the car

 

[fpa1974]

Don't forget, they also have been known to crack. The issue with a spun forged wheel being so light, is that they do not have enough material to support the loads of the car

They are definitely not as strong as fully forged ones and I would definitely not use them the same way. Yet I do not think they are a bad option if you understand what you get. And case in point I have been (re)searching failures for these and was not able to find much which tells me hey are not half bad

 

[50 Deep]

They are definitely not as strong as fully forged ones and I would definitely not use them the same way. Yet I do not think they are a bad option if you understand what you get. And case in point I have been (re)searching failures for these and was not able to find much which tells me hey are not half bad

Well, I hope this comes off as data sharing and nothing more. The only reason I bring this up is our Signature wheel was being compared to the offering from P51 in regard to weight. I am not an engineer, but this is what I’ve learned thus far.

A spun or rotary forged/cast wheel simply does not have the same grain structure or material density as a fully forged aluminum wheel. The process in which it is produced and the metals used are not as strong. A 21lb wheel of that spun/rotary construction type is going to have inherent areas of weakness due to the lack of material. The wheel needs to be heavier in order to be strong. It is the same reason the OEM cast wheel on the GT350 weighs 33lbs. It had too have so much more material in order to handle the loads it would see from the Shelby. Contrarily, you can have thinner spokes on a forged aluminum wheel because the grain structure is stronger/stiffer and does not need more material.

On the same token, if had a 18lb fully forged aluminum wheel and compared it to the 18lb carbon fiber wheel it likely would not be as strong or stiff as the carbon fiber. You just can’t produce a strong/stiff enough forged aluminum wheel with that little material. The properties of the metal won’t allow it the way carbon fiber will. At least not without some other expensive process to increase density/hardness etc.

With that being said I have knowledge of at least 5 separate wheel failures on that wheel design through my travels. There are likely more. I won’t post pictures of them, although I have a couple.

Not looking to bash that wheel, but it’s important to give context to why a wheel that light, of that construction type, when compared to a fully forged wheel is not necessarily a good thing.

I encourage everyone to go and do their own research and be knowledgeable about what you get. Don’t just take it from me. Like you said, as long as you know what you are buying up front.

 

[fpa1974]

Well, I hope this comes off as data sharing and nothing more. The only reason I bring this up is our Signature wheel was being compared to the offering from P51 in regard to weight. I am not an engineer, but this is what I’ve learned thus far.

A spun or rotary forged/cast wheel simply does not have the same grain structure or material density as a fully forged aluminum wheel. The process in which it is produced and the metals used are not as strong. A 21lb wheel of that spun/rotary construction type is going to have inherent areas of weakness due to the lack of material. The wheel needs to be heavier in order to be strong. It is the same reason the OEM cast wheel on the GT350 weighs 33lbs. It had too have so much more material in order to handle the loads it would see from the Shelby. Contrarily, you can have thinner spokes on a forged aluminum wheel because the grain structure is stronger/stiffer and does not need more material.

On the same token, if had a 18lb fully forged aluminum wheel and compared it to the 18lb carbon fiber wheel it likely would not be as strong or stiff as the carbon fiber. You just can’t produce a strong/stiff enough forged aluminum wheel with that little material. The properties of the metal won’t allow it the way carbon fiber will. At least not without some other expensive process to increase density/hardness etc.

With that being said I have knowledge of at least 5 separate wheel failures on that wheel design through my travels. There are likely more. I won’t post pictures of them, although I have a couple.

Not looking to bash that wheel, but it’s important to give context to why a wheel that light, of that construction type, when compared to a fully forged wheel is not necessarily a good thing.

I encourage everyone to go and do their own research and be knowledgeable about what you get. Don’t just take it from me. Like you said, as long as you know what you are buying up front.

I am not sure I said anything differently than what you said (BTW, I never even attempted to compare them or say they are similar other than weight).. Except maybe the failures you mention about - I would love to see some pics (you can email me those if you do not want to post them up) - I see that as data gathering as well so people (including myself) can make better decisions going forward.

I would love a fully forged wheel but at this point I cannot justify the cost. And the way I use these I am pretty confident they will be fine.

 

[Tomster]

Well, I hope this comes off as data sharing and nothing more. The only reason I bring this up is our Signature wheel was being compared to the offering from P51 in regard to weight. I am not an engineer, but this is what I’ve learned thus far.

A spun or rotary forged/cast wheel simply does not have the same grain structure or material density as a fully forged aluminum wheel. The process in which it is produced and the metals used are not as strong. A 21lb wheel of that spun/rotary construction type is going to have inherent areas of weakness due to the lack of material. The wheel needs to be heavier in order to be strong. It is the same reason the OEM cast wheel on the GT350 weighs 33lbs. It had too have so much more material in order to handle the loads it would see from the Shelby. Contrarily, you can have thinner spokes on a forged aluminum wheel because the grain structure is stronger/stiffer and does not need more material.

On the same token, if had a 18lb fully forged aluminum wheel and compared it to the 18lb carbon fiber wheel it likely would not be as strong or stiff as the carbon fiber. You just can’t produce a strong/stiff enough forged aluminum wheel with that little material. The properties of the metal won’t allow it the way carbon fiber will. At least not without some other expensive process to increase density/hardness etc.

With that being said I have knowledge of at least 5 separate wheel failures on that wheel design through my travels. There are likely more. I won’t post pictures of them, although I have a couple.

Not looking to bash that wheel, but it’s important to give context to why a wheel that light, of that construction type, when compared to a fully forged wheel is not necessarily a good thing.

I encourage everyone to go and do their own research and be knowledgeable about what you get. Don’t just take it from me. Like you said, as long as you know what you are buying up front.

T,

I absolutely agree with you that the spun forged wheel is of a lesser quality. I certainly think that the folks at LMR or 6GR didn't design their wheels to be track wheels. I once used 6GR's on the track and in afterthought, I swore I would never use a wheel like this again on the track for the very reasons that you stated above. However, if you never planned to use a spun forged wheel on the track, the risk of a wheel failure is significantly reduced. It really is all about what the wheel was designed for and how it winds up being used. I can't think of anyone who would rather have a spun forged wheel instead of a CNC machined wheel from a solid billet of aluminum. The quality is night and day difference, but with that significant difference is a very large price tag.

Things have come a long way since the 6GR wheels were first introduced. The 6GR wheel has functional as well as aesthetic problems. Everyone knows about the "chariot" lug nut effect on the R due to the longer stud lengths as well as the extremely minimal caliper clearance. Honestly, the only thing that bothers me about the 6GR wheel is the caliper clearance. The lug issue, IMHO, isn't that big of a deal with the solution that I use. Now back to caliper clearance..... The LMR R replica wheels have about 5.5mm of clearance. That is significant. I thought that in your original wheels of fortune thread you measured and published the caliper clearance, but after reading it again, I don't see it. The LMR R replicas were measured by another member and that number was about 5.5mm of clearance. Compared to the 6GR, that is huge. What are your intended design clearances on the new wheel?

Another concern comparing the two possible directions to go from here is initial cost and potential costs incurred should you curb a wheel and damage it beyond repair. With HR871, I did get the road hazard insurance and I was assured that in the event of a wheel issue, my dealership would work with me to get a replacement wheel if needed. Others have trashed their CF wheels and with the Ford insurance, were able to get replacement wheels. Now, trash a signature wheel and there is no insurance. A very rough guestimation makes me think that to get a replacement wheel, you would be looking at close to a grand by the time it was all said and done (not to mention lead time and if the wheel is still in production). On the other side of the coin, trash a R replica wheel, and you are looking at about $250ish? And then there is the factor that despite the fact that your wheels are about half the cost (give or take) of CF, they are still quite expensive (however very reasonably priced in comparison to other forged wheels). For that reason, you are sill going to worry about messing the signature wheels up, where the R replica wheels I probably wouldn't even give them a second thought.

T, you sell the best quality CNC forged wheels at a very good value. That is undisputed. Anyone who is in the market for a set of quality forged wheels needs to talk to Terrence. He is reputable and I absolutely would have no concerns about the business he is part of or the wheels he sells. For me, it comes down to intended use and cost of the wheel. I track my CF wheels. I would never track my street wheels. The caliper clearance on the LMR wheel is very good. I don't know if I can justify a (admittedly) far superior wheel at a particular price point.

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