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Suspension Thoughts after 2000 Kilometer Alpine Tour + 10 hrs of intense twisties

Roadway 5.0

Strassejager
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My Alpine Tour is complete, and the 2,000 kilometer adventure is sadly over. With that said, I have some feedback to my current suspension setup following the high-distance road trip that included over 30 hours of driving, 10 of which were intense, full-throttled, corner carving:

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The Good:

Sharp! steering response, transitioning from left to right and right to left is insanely awesome, ride quality surprisingly good on backroads (even the choppy Hahntennjoch Pass in Austria), full-stiff sway bar allowed perfect balance (for me) of under vs oversteer. Chassis bracing shone the largest, with the new IRS braces really showing how well they stabilize the rear end even on rougher roads. The car was never unpredictable, never lost traction (also surprising considering the way I was driving), and I experienced zero wheel hop.

The new Steeda splitter was exceptional at highway speeds and provided a heavier steering wheel feel throughout my Tour; the weather-stripping I added to the top of my headlights worked perfectly in nearly eliminating all of the hood flutter I once experienced at speed. My upholstered steering wheel was a pleasure to handle throughout the drive and its enlarged thumb grips really helped control the twisties.

The FRPP/Borla Touring exhaust's gorgeous noise ignited my loins and even drew the attention (and a revving competition) with a Ferrari in a Swiss tunnel (epic).

Needs Improvement:

Long sweeping turns at speed (60mph or higher) is the Achilles heel of my setup. There are no issues concerning traction and I never lost control (or even close), but the LACK of roll and/or feel of transition in my setup actually gives me an uneasiness when steering the way. Yes, this is probably odd to hear if you are a seasoned racer, but I was actually yearning for a bit of roll/feel of transition to ease into these long sweepers. RECOMMENDED FIX: I am strongly considering the Steeda progressive or dual rate springs for next year's Tour (probably Romania). (Edit: it has been recommended by many to soften my adjustable rear sway bar to improve rotation, so I will certainly try this.)

180 degree elevated hairpins caused a touch of chirping with the inside rear tire; my aggressive rear camber or the extra stiff rear sway bar is probably the root cause. Either way, I drive these types of turns often in the mountains so I'll have to dial-in a fix. RECOMMENDED FIX: drop the rear sway bar one notch; if that doesn't work then dial back the rear camber a half-degree from -2.0 to -1.5 or so.

2nd gear pulls are weak: my car is untuned, in fact it has zero engine modifications. The lack of low-end grunt in the factory tune is VERY apparent when at 6000-7000 feet and pulling a 180 degree elevated turn at 20mph. Damn this car is heavy. Anyway, 20mph is a touch too fast for 1st gear, and bogs in 2nd. RECOMMENDED FIX: I'll be considering a 93 octane tune in the future to give some pizzazz into the low end.

Well known fact, but I'll reiterate, the factory wheels are far too heavy. I need to lighten these up to allow the suspension to react even faster and to make rotation a touch easier on the engine.

My "change oil soon" light came on only 3 mountain passes in. Yes, I drove the absolute **** out of my car prior, but it seems I need a tougher oil for deliberate thrashing Tours like this. I'm open for recommendations on weight and brand.

Interesting Findings

The stock Pirellis felt very good at 29psi cold and ~32/33 hot. I've previously mentioned that starting at 32psi was solid, but I think this is only true for casual daily driving.

I found "Normal" steering mode provided the best feedback, and that "Normal" mode also felt the most like my hands were attached to the front tires of the car. "Sport" was just to on/off switchy and caused uneasiness in long sweepers or at Autobahn speeds. The same relates to the throttle response; "Normal" had a touch of finesse where the sport and track was very abrupt in engagement, though this is a big give and take considering the programming changes.

The Italians were MUCH more up front on liking the Mustang and the decals...I heard "bella" often and received waves and honks throughout my time going to and on the Stelvio Pass.
___________________________________________________

That's all I have for now. If you're interested in seeing me tear-up 5 of the best Alpine mountain passes, then check out my YouTube link below. Episode 3 will release on 15 September. If you have any ideas on how to further improve/expand on my setup I'm open for suggestions. Have a good one,

- Mike

www.youtube.com/c/roadway50

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NightmareMoon

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Sounds like a dream of a trip!

Have you tried both swaybars on Medium?

Aftermarket lightweight 19x10" wheels are a huge win, compared to the heavy factory wheels.

I wouldnt worry about some inside wheel chirping in tight low speed corners. Sounds like a tire grip and/or differential issue and not something to chase. The tire is just talking to you. The inside tire has very little load so its not much of an issue. A stickier tire might not make any fuss at all.
 

BmacIL

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Given what you're feeling, I would drastically soften your rear swaybar (possibly even go to the PP rear bar). Everything you're describing in the first two paragraphs of "Needs Improvement" screams needing that. There are a couple in between options from your current one and the PP rear bar (GT350R and Strano bars come to mind). Some more front camber with the softer bar (and possibly the roll center correcting front control arms) would bring your balance back to how you like it and make the car easier and more feelsome to drive. Just a suggestion.

That sounds like it was a blast. I wish we had roads like that here.
 
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Roadway 5.0

Roadway 5.0

Strassejager
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Great feedback guys, thanks. I’ll dial-back the rear sway bar and see how it feels. Lightweight 19x10s with sticky tires are for sure the next mod!

Fyi, I’ll be back in the states in 2020 and will be doing a “Rocky Mountain Tour.” Open invite to anyone who wants to cook thier tires and oil with me on some great twisties :D
 
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Bahndvr

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Your pinion seal held up?
 

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BmacIL

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Bahndvr

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TheLion

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The more and more I see critiques on suspension, the more and more I am thinking GT350R front and rear bars with FP Track trampers and most likely BMR springs. But the jury is still out on the rear bar because the BMR springs are a bit stiffer than standard GT350R rear springs (914 vs 980), so I'm thinking a PP rear bar would give it nearly the same balance when pairing with BMR springs.

However, I do believe GT350R front and rear bars will pair better with SP080 springs, as the rear spring rates are a little softer relative to the fronts with SP080's over the 83's. And the stock PP GT under steers a little too much but you don't want to go too stiff on the front bar, so I think the front to rear balance of the GT350R bars might work very well. It think one OP with SP080's tried them with excellent results.

Would regular GT350R springs fit on FP dampers? It is my understanding the R does not have magnetic suspension, isn't that an added option for the base GT350 to give it a better "street / track" dynamic balance? The R is very track focused and stripped down to the bare essentials, but it does ride more harshly and lacks some of the creature comforts most people prefer to have for street use / grand touring.
 
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BmacIL

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The more and more I see critiques on suspension, the more and more I am thinking GT350R front and rear bars with FP Track trampers and most likely BMR springs. But the jury is still out on the rear bar because the BMR springs are a bit stiffer. Would regular GT350R springs fit on FP dampers? It is my understanding the R does not have magnetic suspension, isn't that an added option for the base GT350?
All GT350s from '17MY come with the Track Package from the '15/16MYs as standard. That includes magneride.

GT350R springs work great too. The front is nearly identical in rate and drop to the BMR handling. The GT350R rear is softer and dual rate. I'd strongly recommend what you have in bold, though possibly just the front bar. The rear is very easy to change if you decide you want to later.
 

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TheLion

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That's what I'm thinking of doing in a year or two. For now I want to use up the stock PP dampers instead of just tossing them. So far at 20k miles they are still performing as expected with SP080 springs. However I think a little more bar might help provide more feedback. Given how cheap they are, I may order the front and rear GT350R bars with fittings / bushings. It's what, under $200? Then I have options. PP Front and Rear, GT350R front and rear so I can tune to my hearts content.

Tires have a huge play in it, 80% of suspension is tires. I know the Pirellies suck, there's no doubt about that, I prefer my Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ all seasons over the Pirellies which are very numb in my opinion, smooth, but numb. Maybe some of that has to due with stock PP wheels, which are heavy and lack feed back due to the scrub, they could use a little bit more scrub radius. I love the feedback given on my RTR Tech 7's, but the offset is pretty aggressive at +33mm, it does tram-line in normal driving on some roads, that's my only gripe, but I can't get around the stability and feedback gained with a larger scrub.

Hopefully my hybrid alignment settings (tweaked from BMR's recomendations for SP080's) will help tone it down (tramlinign with Tech 7's), but I don't think you can get around tram-lining to some small degree if you want feedback from your suspension as that's the source of feedback.

Also, anyone else get a "PP wheel vibration" at 115~120 mph? My RTR's don't do that. The PP wheels are factory balanced an still have plenty of tread, rears are band new so I'm a bit baffled that 115~120 is a resonant frequency.
 

Bahndvr

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Also, anyone else get a "PP wheel vibration" at 115~120 mph? My RTR's don't do that. The PP wheels are factory balanced an still have plenty of tread, rears are band new so I'm a bit baffled that 115~120 is a resonant frequency.
No vibration, even up to 150 mph
 
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Roadway 5.0

Roadway 5.0

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@TheLion

I got a vibration with the PP wheels at those speeds only after installing wheel spacers (good ones too). It wasn’t alarming, but it was noticable. About every 3 seconds the vibration would quickly come and go.

Another reason new wheels are in my future.
 

TheLion

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Maybe it's just the balance. I don't recall ever getting any vibration from my RTR 4 square setup at similar speeds. Maybe once I get new tires on the stock pp wheels which I"m relegating to cold weather use (winter) I'll see if that helps. Could be slightly out of balance maybe? Just surprises me that I don't get anything noticeable at 60-80 mph but I do at 115~120. It's nothing drastic where it's shaking the car apart, but it's absolutely there and very noticeable. I'm not running wheel spacers however on my PP wheels.
 
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Roadway 5.0

Roadway 5.0

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Maybe it's just the balance. I don't recall ever getting any vibration from my RTR 4 square setup at similar speeds. Maybe once I get new tires on the stock pp wheels which I"m relegating to cold weather use (winter) I'll see if that helps. Could be slightly out of balance maybe? Just surprises me that I don't get anything noticeable at 60-80 mph but I do at 115~120. It's nothing drastic where it's shaking the car apart, but it's absolutely there and very noticeable. I'm not running wheel spacers however on my PP wheels.
It must be a small balancing issue, as my PP wheels are perfect (with no spacers) at much higher speeds.

You can also loosen, then equally re-torque all of your lug nuts to spec, ensuring you do so in the “star-shape” order.
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