Steering wheel options; I can't decide

[sam97mt]

Some information regarding option #3. I emailed craftcustoms.com. They specialize in automotive interior refurbishment.
This is the response:

The cost to reupholster your 2017 Ford steering wheel to new leather specifications with Baseball stitching is $299 plus shipping, and takes 6-12 man-hours of labor. We use only Top of the Line Imported Automotive Leather that exceeds industry standards. Simply send in your steering wheel and we'll take care of the rest. Turnaround is about eight days.


All of our work, quality and materials are guaranteed, and meet or exceed manufacturer's specifications. Simply send your part(s) in to the address below, along with a copy of this email, your address, phone number, and a brief description of what you want done.

I could pickup a used wheel for $145 + 300 and for 450 and some shipping you got another viable option.

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[sam97mt]

Here is another, more fancy, option. I think some of you may prefer this.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/283446960790

 

[RadRubyRed]

here’s mine from https://scgarageworks.com/product/2005-2017-mustang-fully-custom-steering-wheel-built-your-way/

 

[Blk2015GT]

Not an Alcantara fan, it gets all the gunk and oils from your hands matted into it like a towel would.

The Beith stuff is nice, but not for $700-900. To rich for my blood when my car is 5 years old already and who knows how long before I upgrade it.

The CJs leather honeslty looks nice to me, very GT350-like but all leather. The ebay one may be cheaper (the red stiching at least, the black like the CJs is also $250) but if there is some defect my guess dealing with CJs is a lot easier than some ebay company.

The CJs carbon is only $398, but I question how comfortable that would be to grip say on a long drive, or slippery when its hot and sweaty out.

 

[sam97mt]

@DRKHORS @Dweisman429

Hey. I got the wheel and its a nice wheel all around. The material is some kind of leather(it doesnt smell like it). However, it feels very nice. Very grippy compared to the factory wheel. Its also smooth, in the non-perf areas, unlike the factory wheel which has a stamped grain all around. The stitching is symmetrical, taught all around and the entire skin appears centered on the wheel. The wheel is thicker than the factory wheel, but is hard. It has zero give except for how much you can compress the material and hard rubber structure underneath. Lifting the corners I see no foam at all. The material is glued directly to the rubber.

The overall shape is nice to hold. Its fits the thumbs nicely at 9 & 3 and easy to hug with your palm despite being flattened. Its nice to grab at 10 & 2 even with the larger thumb rests (though not sure why thumbs go there). I even like it at 5 & 7 for more relax driving. I was thinking the contouring would be uncomfortable to grab but its not bad. But basically, I assume, the wheel is designed to be held at 9 & 3. The lower half of the shape is intended to avoid getting in the way of legs. Which I hope is the case, I have a problem with hitting the wheel with my left knee now.

The casting is clean, looks and feels like aluminum and the holes for the switches are all pre-threaded.

Out of all the options, its hard to say no to a $200 steering wheel like this. But, I have seen some of the pictures of the re-upholstered GT350 wheels using craft customs and for $300 (if you already got the wheel) I feel it would be a much better end result with the internal padding and simpler look. But if you have to buy the wheel, then its a toss up if twice the price is worth it.

I will keep the wheel and install it, but I do have concerns over vibration transmitted through the wheel since it lacks the padding. Looking at @DRKHORS for input on this one.

 

[DRKHORS]

Your wheel is ever so slightly different than mine from CJPP. Primarily the stitching and the contouring at 10 and 2. Looks good tho! They share many of the same design features, including a lack of padding under the leather. The firmer feel has grown on me and I haven't noticed any significant, if any at all, additional vibrations transferred through the wheel.

Hope you enjoy!

 

[myboostedgst]

Just wash your hands and buy a GT350 wheel. I come from the import world and most of those cheap wheels look like someone threw up carbon fiber all over them. To each their own, but they really cheapen the look of the interior.

 

[sam97mt]

Just wash your hands and buy a GT350 wheel. I come from the import world and most of those cheap wheels look like someone threw up carbon fiber all over them. To each their own, but they really cheapen the look of the interior.

I am not a fan of carbon fiber, IMHO, its cold and uninviting. GT350R wheel with red stitching and red stripe is nice, but I dont want to be washing my wheel to maintain it. Too many people complain they go bad and all at different rates. My guess is body chemistry has a lot to do with the impact on the material. Some people sweat more, others have more oils in their skin.

The best and highest quality options IMHO,is to get a used GT350 and to have it professionally re-upholstered in leather. But thats 400 at the minimum unless you already have the wheel. You may be right though, I will probably kick myself later for cheapening out.

 

[sam97mt]

 

[myboostedgst]

Looks good!

 

[Juantrickpony]

Anyone try JATO Performance wheels? A little steep at $700 but they look pretty nice.

 

[DRKHORS]

Wheel looks good!

 

[Bikeman315]

Anyone try JATO Performance wheels? A little steep at $700 but they look pretty nice.

If I were considering spending that kind of cash I’d get a wheel by Beith. My buddy has one and it is incredible. Big bucks, but great wheel.

 

[sam97mt]

So some initial thoughts.

1. The factory wheel also does not have any padding underneath. It too is skin glued\stitched directly to the wheel. The difference is the rubber of the factory wheel is substantially more playable.
2. The contouring of this aftermarket wheel is something to get used to. It has sharp angle at 9\3, depending on how you hold it this isnt the most pleasant sensation on the palm.
3. The stitching is nice to look at, but it is course. IMHO, depending on how you hold the wheel, its not the most pleasant sensation for the finger tips.
4. The perforated leather sections are nice and grippy, but im not sure if my hands are just dry today or what, but it gives this feeling of fine needle in the palm of your hand.
5. Holding at 10/2 is nice with the extra meat.
6. Allowing the wheel to slip through your hand after a turn as it straighens is a strange experience because the shape on the face of the rim is not uniform.
7. Separating the rear plastic cowling from the switches at the top has to be done very carefully because they lock into one another with very long tabs. Thats why I included pictures of the bottom piece but the top is identical and meshes similarly. The easiest way I found to separate them is using a small allen key fished up between the two pieces. It will push away the tab on the switches and release the plastic. Thats why I posted a side shot of the tab. Pulling it apart or twisting is not recommend, it will break. This is something the CJPony video does not show how to separate.
8. I'm going give the wheel a chance before rendering a final verdict. But right now, I think a thicker re-skinned GT350 wheel with no perforated leather sections would be ideal but at 2.5 times the price.

 

[sam97mt]

Well, I regret to say but this wheel is not for me. I spend to much time driving in the city and and the shape of the wheel, especially the flat parts are not very conducive to one handed steering.

If anyone is interested, i'd love to sell it to you. - SOLD

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