Steeda ProAction Adjustable Shocks and Struts

[sixerstang]

I have done a few mods (OK a lot but my wife still thinks it's factory!) since we bought the 2015 s550 for my wife but the latest mod (Steeda minimum drop springs with Steeda Proaction Adjustable shocks and struts) has me searching forums and trying multiple rebound settings but the car is still bouncing like a bunny on the highway. I've tried the initial Steeda recommended 1 full turn from full soft which was a harsh ride so started from 1/4 turn from soft rear and 0 turns front and working up from there. So far, still bouncing down the highway. I've read more dampening in the rear than front and vice versa. Take a look at my mods as I'm open to any recommendations. I've done all the mods myself including pressing in the bushing and bearings.

Current bild as of May 2024 on 2015 Mustang from front to back:
- Airaid Cold Air Intake
- BBK Throttle Body
- BBK Ceramic Shorty Headers
- MPT Tune
- JMS Mustang PedalMax
- Mustang Ford Performance Strut Tower Brace
- Steeda Mustang Extreme G-Trac-K-Member Brace
- Steeda Mustang Front Camber Plates
- Steeda Mustang Front Adjustable Camber Bolts
- Steeda Mustang 1-3/8” Front Sway Bar with Billet Aluminum Bar Mount Kit
- Steeda Mustang Adjustable Front Sway Bar Links
- Steeda Mustang/Explorer 1” Hubcentric Aluminum Wheel Spacers (Front and Rear)
- Steeda Mustang Minimum Drop Lowering Springs -Linear (Front and Rear)
- Steeda Mustang Pro Action Adjustable Shocks & Struts
- The Driveshaft Shop Aluminum Driveshaft
- Steeda Mustang Coupe Rear IRS Subframe Support Braces
- Steeda Mustang Subframe Alignment and Support Kit
- Steeda Mustang Billet Rear Shock Mount - for 12mm Adjustable Pro Action Rear Shocks
- Steeda Mustang Billet Aluminum Vertical Links - Polyurethane Bushings
- Steeda Mustang Adjustable Rear Toe Links
- Steeda Mustang Rear Adjustable Camber Arms
- Ford Performance Mustang knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly
- Steeda Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing
- Steeda Mustang Adjustable 1” Rear Sway Bar with Billet Aluminum Bar Mount Kit
- Steeda Mustang Adjustable Swaybar Links
- Steeda Mustang Truck Prop Kit
- Borla ATAK Axle Back Exhaust

Installed and then removed:
- Steeda Mustang Adjustable Differential Bushing Insert System (Urethane) - too much NVH
- Steeda Mustang Rear Camber Adjustment Kit - Pain to adjust - went with camber arms
- Mustang Ultra Lite Chasis Jacking Rails - rusting - need a quick sand and paint and they'll go back on.

Purchased but haven’t installed:
- Steeda Hardcore S550 Mustang IRS Differential Support Brackets - worried about NVH but might try later

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[tj@steeda]

Sheldon - please call & ask for Jaime to discuss your set-up & settings. He is our lead tech & can help dial you in better.

You can call at 1800 950 0774.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[shogun32]

Bouncing how?
You know the adjuster is lefty tighty, yes?

 

[Fusion Training Systems]

How long ago did you add the springs?

 

[sixerstang]

Bouncing how?
You know the adjuster is lefty tighty, yes?

Bouncing front to back like a horse on a merry go round. Yep - aware of the reverse thread settings with the softest fully clockwise.

 

[sixerstang]

How long ago did you add the springs?

I bought the springs and shocks/struts at the same time. Replaced the isolators at the same time but only shaved the factory bump stops.

 

[sixerstang]

Sheldon - please call & ask for Jaime to discuss your set-up & settings. He is our lead tech & can help dial you in better.

You can call at 1800 950 0774.

Best Regards,

TJ

Will do - Thanks TJ

 

[shogun32]

Bouncing front to back like a horse on a merry go round.

OT, please rename your thread title. pro-ACTION are adjustable. pro-ACTIVE are not and a different animal. Yes, I agree LOUSY choice of product naming on Steeda's part.

Run the fronts 1/2 turn out from closed/hard. Rears at 1 turn out from closed/stiff.

Ed: you ALWAYS count turns from fully closed/hard. It is the only knowable state of the damping assembly.

Find a test circuit that allows you to do on+off-camber loops, frost heaves or significant road joints, as well as some climbing esses and hard braking. Do a few laps to establish baseline and write down your impressions.

Then loosen fronts 1/4 turn. re-test. Like the optometrist asks: better or worse?
If better, go another 1/8 back. If worse, go tighter 1/8.

ps. 1/8 turn can be surprisingly dramatic on these.

write down your new settings.
Then for giggles back both ends off a half turn. Disaster? Or strangely enough loving it? If not a disaster, tighten by 1/4" and see how you feel about that.

Reaching the rear adjusters is nigh impossible so bring a jack with you to get enough room between the fender and tire for your arm to fit.

 

[NGOT8R]

Impressive list of mods there. I have the Steeda Hardcore Differential Bracket on my car, along with lots of other parts that one would think should cause a lot of NVH. My NVH is very low on the scale (about a 2 or 3 on a scale of 1-10.

Note: I ran into a small issue with fitment, in that the mounting holes on the bracket’s legs didn’t line up with one of the bolts. I had to enlarge both holes to get it to fit. I did speak with Steeda Tech on this, so I don’t know whether mine was an isolated incident or not.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I find it easier to think about these settings as 2.5 full turns from soft to stuff. Thats 10 quarter turns, so 0/10 1/10 2/10 to 10/10 etc.

Try like 6/10 front and 4/10 rear. If its bouncing the shocks are too soft.

 

[sixerstang]

OT, please rename your thread title. pro-ACTION are adjustable. pro-ACTIVE are not and a different animal. Yes, I agree LOUSY choice of product naming on Steeda's part.

Run the fronts 1/2 turn out from closed/hard. Rears at 1 turn out from closed/stiff.

Ed: you ALWAYS count turns from fully closed/hard. It is the only knowable state of the damping assembly.

Find a test circuit that allows you to do on+off-camber loops, frost heaves or significant road joints, as well as some climbing esses and hard braking. Do a few laps to establish baseline and write down your impressions.

Then loosen fronts 1/4 turn. re-test. Like the optometrist asks: better or worse?
If better, go another 1/8 back. If worse, go tighter 1/8.

ps. 1/8 turn can be surprisingly dramatic on these.

write down your new settings.
Then for giggles back both ends off a half turn. Disaster? Or strangely enough loving it? If not a disaster, tighten by 1/4" and see how you feel about that.

Reaching the rear adjusters is nigh impossible so bring a jack with you to get enough room between the fender and tire for your arm to fit.

Thanks for the suggestions on a start. You are one of the first I’ve read to have the rears softer than the front but the more I read the more I see this as the suggestion for highway driving so I’ll give it a shot.

 

[sixerstang]

I find it easier to think about these settings as 2.5 full turns from soft to stuff. Thats 10 quarter turns, so 0/10 1/10 2/10 to 10/10 etc.

Try like 6/10 front and 4/10 rear. If its bouncing the shocks are too soft.

Thanks another vote for the softer rear so I must have been on the wrong path for the type of driving I’m doing - typically street/highway.

 

[sixerstang]

Impressive list of mods there. I have the Steeda Hardcore Differential Bracket on my car, along with lots of other parts that one would think should cause a lot of NVH. My NVH is very low on the scale (about a 2 or 3 on a scale of 1-10.

Note: I ran into a small issue with fitment, in that the mounting holes on the bracket’s legs didn’t line up with one of the bolts. I had to enlarge both holes to get it to fit. I did speak with Steeda Tech on this, so I don’t know whether mine was an isolated incident or not.

Thanks for the comments. The only mod so far that I’ve noticed NVH was the urethane differential bushing inserts. Once I put them in the it whined like a pig when I would let off the accelerator but that was before I pushed in new bushing and bearings so I could have had a few other factors causing the increased NVH. I put the urethane differential bushings into my Explorer ST (vertical configuration though) without any noticeable NVH so maybe I’ll try them back in the mustang since I have now replaced some of the torn rubber bushings or it might be easier to bolt on the hardcore diff bracket and try that first as the front urethane bushing were a PITA to get in the first time even after lowering the diff as much as I could/wanted to.

 

[shogun32]

If you've got torn diff bushings it's probably time for cutting them out and going for poly replacements

 

[sixerstang]

If you've got torn diff bushings it's probably time for cutting them out and going for poly replacements

Sorry - I should have clarified the bushings were the LCA to spindle and LCA to body. I pressed in a spherical bearing for the LCA to body and a Ford Racing bushing for the LCA to spindle. I could have caused the problem by tightening up some of the mods with the suspension drooped. I’m more aware of the problem now and always set the car down on 4 ramps and then do the final tightening of any fixed bushing.

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