So, has everyone made peace with the 2K rattle?

Mad Horse

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I'll add this as a data point.............

My 2019 had the 2K rattle. It was a little louder when cold but was still audible when warmed up. Car started using a LOT of oil around 4K miles. Scored cylinders were the cause so short block and cylinder heads were replaced.

DI pump was reused along with timing chain set, cam shafts, injectors etc. I now have 1,200 miles on the new setup and the rattle is completely gone. For me, this takes the fuel system out of the equation since I have the same pump and injectors that were on the engine that rattled. I'm not saying I know what was causing the noise but I know what it wasn't.

The car is much more enjoyable to drive now.





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bootlegger

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So by comparison the BMW sucks mechanically, but at least it doesn't tick :crackup:
It's actually a brilliant piece of engineering, and mechanically logical as far as layout goes. Germans just often fail with endurance. Our Bimmer has like 41k miles, and it has had all injectors, coils, plugs, a charge pipe, and wheels replaced due to failure. If you aren't willing to turn a wrench regularly, you should never buy a German car out of warranty. The main parts like engine, trans, and body will last 300k miles, but everything around those parts will break.
 

bootlegger

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Maybe it's different now, because my 2016 M235 had to have fake engine noise to cover up for the meh sounding i6.
Yeah, we are on the N54 platform, which is arguably one of the best inline 6 engines BMW has made. They still have lots of BMW problems though. We have M-Sport exhaust, deleted secondary cats, and short ram intake to help the engine sing.
 

Sivi70980

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It's actually a brilliant piece of engineering, and mechanically logical as far as layout goes. Germans just often fail with endurance. Our Bimmer has like 41k miles, and it has had all injectors, coils, plugs, a charge pipe, and wheels replaced due to failure. If you aren't willing to turn a wrench regularly, you should never buy a German car out of warranty. The main parts like engine, trans, and body will last 300k miles, but everything around those parts will break.
2009 Mini Cooper JCW I sold to a buddy who knew exactly what he was getting into. just under 100k on the clock and falling apart. Just before I sold it I replaced the turbo. Since then he's had the entire top side of the engine rebuilt and the thing still has issues. Again, he wanted this but he's spent about what I have in car payments over the last year and a half. So to say the engine will last 300k miles....a bit of a stretch. That car engine is very noisy too and always was. Most fun I've had on 4 wheels though.
 

Mikthehun1

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It's actually a brilliant piece of engineering, and mechanically logical as far as layout goes. Germans just often fail with endurance. Our Bimmer has like 41k miles, and it has had all injectors, coils, plugs, a charge pipe, and wheels replaced due to failure. If you aren't willing to turn a wrench regularly, you should never buy a German car out of warranty. The main parts like engine, trans, and body will last 300k miles, but everything around those parts will break.
Brilliant engineering includes longevity and durability. Compromised engineering allows for supporting parts to fail. It's all planned obsolescence so BMW can sell you overpriced hoses and shit.
 

bootlegger

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2009 Mini Cooper JCW I sold to a buddy who knew exactly what he was getting into. just under 100k on the clock and falling apart. Just before I sold it I replaced the turbo. Since then he's had the entire top side of the engine rebuilt and the thing still has issues. Again, he wanted this but he's spent about what I have in car payments over the last year and a half. So to say the engine will last 300k miles....a bit of a stretch. That car engine is very noisy too and always was. Most fun I've had on 4 wheels though.
Well, I am talking specifically about our BMW, which comes with the N54. I can't speak to the long term reliability of other German built engines.
 

bootlegger

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Brilliant engineering includes longevity and durability. Compromised engineering allows for supporting parts to fail. It's all planned obsolescence so BMW can sell you overpriced hoses and shit.
Planning for quality issues, especially within the warranty duration, is not a profitable business model. BMW has failures because they develop engines using advanced technologies and designs that are often not proven enough. In our case, it was an early DI system.
Quality is just one aspect of engineering. You can still have brilliant engineering without it. The Wankel engine is a good example. Brilliant design, performance, and layout, but really poor longevity. Race car engines also come to mind. Many are designed to only last a few track days.
 

kodioneill

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I just get sick of hearing people complain about it. We just had a gen 3 single turbo go 7's on stock bottom end. Plenty of 8 and 9 second factory bottom end cars out there. Tons of cars making over 700whp without failure - lets just get over a little bit if rattle. For what its worth if this was a major mechanical defect the cars wouldn't be holding up like they do - PERIOD. I don't care if we had half a dozen guys say their engine was replaced, it was probably because they bitched night and day about it to the dealer and they replaced it. Judging by how many cars "rattle" its a normal thing, could be injector related, could be DI pump related all I know for a fact is it is not mechanical defect.

My old LS1 had piston slap, it was cammed, nitrous, and was beat on for over 175k miles. They were notorious for slaps and rattles and yet they were industry leading for over a decade in performance. Now its the Coyotes turn.

If you don't like the rattle SELL THE FUCKING CAR. If you can't bare it SELL THE FUCKING CAR. Jumping on to a forum where people have no idea on what's actually causing it is just annoying.
WOW you sound like a really nice fella!
 

Bmaughan

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I’ll add to this incredibly nebulous conversation/issue.
I’ve had three coyote mustangs over the last 7 years. All three ticked... I’ve read hundreds and hundreds of pages in forums searchIng for an answer... there are just about as many answers as there posts about this issue.

All I can say is this....
on my current car I had the tick very obviously for about 2 years until I switched to e85 and put in oil pump gears.
No idea what that would affect but all I know is that had the tick and now I don’t. Oh and just to be clear I don’t think there is any inherent issue with a part or anything but it’s clear that something got affected to where it’s totally gone now...
 

Bikeman315

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I’ll add to this incredibly nebulous conversation/issue.
I’ve had three coyote mustangs over the last 7 years. All three ticked... I’ve read hundreds and hundreds of pages in forums searchIng for an answer... there are just about as many answers as there posts about this issue.

All I can say is this....
on my current car I had the tick very obviously for about 2 years until I switched to e85 and put in oil pump gears.
No idea what that would affect but all I know is that had the tick and now I don’t. Oh and just to be clear I don’t think there is any inherent issue with a part or anything but it’s clear that something got affected to where it’s totally gone now...
But the question is, “do/did you have the 2k rattle?”
 

Elp_jc

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I had the tick very obviously for about 2 years until I switched to e85 and put in oil pump gears.
Are you talking about the tick, or the 2K rattle? Just to be sure, since the thread is about the 2K rattle. I'd associate oil pump gears with the 2K rattle, not the (typewriter) tick. Thank you.
 

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