Skinning a Horse - (PP-Gauge Upgrade)

[Condor1970]

Well, I really wanted to install a set of PP Gauges on my 2018 GT base model, but of course I'm pretty cheap, and don't want to spend a ton of money just for the dash trim. To be honest, I thought about just finding a regular PP gauge trim set, but I really am not all that fond of the gray'ish hydro dipped like finish. I really wanted carbon fiber.

Of course, to get carbon fiber, the trim is $1,000.00. Good luck trying to find that cheaper.

So, having a little experience working with fiberglass and carbon fiber myself when building RC Airplanes for years, I decided to convert the existing dash trim, and skin this baby with carbon fiber.Not only did it save me $1,000 for the Tru-fiber dash, but also $300+ for buying the regular PP-gauge trim on Ebay. Heck, it only cost me $25 off Ebay for some carbon fiber and $2 for a PVC pipe fitting to make gauge inserts. I figure, since I already had the epoxy and all my tools from other past projects, let's make this a new project!

So, here we go!!!

First remove the trim, and belt sand off all that slippery hydro-dipped surface down to bare metal.

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[Condor1970]

Next, remove all the plastic framework inside the trim around the center vent hole to create a nice flat surface to fill the hole and reinforce with cf.

Then, use some PVC pipe to create the angled gauge inserts.

 

[Condor1970]

Next step, you need to fill the old vent hole with pre-cut pieces of carbon to create a smooth surface to skin the outside of the trim, and cut new holes for the new gauge inserts. I lined the outside of the trim with some thin cardboard (from a file folder), and lined with wax paper to prevent it from sticking the cf/epoxy to the folder. Then, fill the hole with round pieces first (about 4-6 pieces layered), and then lay a larger piece over all of it to reinforce the whole area.

 

[Condor1970]

After it's set for a day, you can remove the cardboard backing, and belt sand the surface smooth to remove any wax or remnants.

 

[Condor1970]

Now JB Weld the gauge inserts into place using the gauges themselves to make sure they are centered and lined up as needed. I wrapped masking tape around the gauges to fill in the gauge to insert gap to keep them perfectly snug, so they don't drift, and also to keep the gauges from getting JB Weld on them. After it slightly sets, remove the gauges, and set a small weight on top to hold them down and in place so they don't shift while curing. When they are almost completely set, I removed the little can I used for a weight, and double checked the alignment with the gauges again. This can be kind of tricky, so patience is a virtue here. You really only get one shot at this, or you have to Dremel out the whole thing and start over.

After it's all cured, I made some basswood blocks for my gauge mounts, and JB welded those in place as well with the gauges installed to make sure they are also aligned properly.

 

[Condor1970]

After that is cured, the next day you can cut out the holes for the gauges and sand out the inside for a perfect fit. Also, paint a layer of black epoxy all over the inside to seal and strengthen the wood blocks to prevent any future rot. Also put some epoxy inside the screw holes, and drive the gauge mount screws in an out to force epoxy into the holes and strengthen the threads. Just don't leave the screw in the hole while it cures, or you will be hitting yourself for being a total dumbsh!t.

 

[Condor1970]

Now comes the skinning. Paint a good 1-2 coats of black epoxy all over the surface of the parts. When it is cured up to being very tacky to the touch, but not gooey and coming off on your fingers, then skin the part carefully. This is a very difficult piece to skin, because there are quite a few odd curves, and 4 inside holes you need to make relief cuts for, and proper skin the insides. In fact the far end of the main dash piece got some of the carbon weave a little squiggly, because as I worked it into the inside bottom curve, and around the outside edges, it shifted. It's smooth, but the weave got a bit squiggly. You don't really notice it, unless you really look at it. The best way to prevent it, is really using a professional mold which holds everything in place while it cures to prevent any improper shifting of the cloth. For more info on carbon fiber skinning, there are loads of videos on YouTube to watch. A little practice, and it can look really good.

 

[Condor1970]

Before installation, I made a small cap for the center vent hole inside the dash, and sealed it with silicon sealant. I also Dremeled out all the center framework to allow the new gauges to fit. I forgot to take a pic of that part, but there are lots of guys who have done this in the DIY PP-Gauge install Recap thread that shows what needs to be removed.

 

[Condor1970]

After several coats of epoxy, and block sanding to make it smooth without a wavy surface, I then gave it 4 coats of crystal clear top coat. And finally, 2,000 grit wet sanded the orange peel smooth and polished to a shiny finish.

Project Complete!!!

 

[Condor1970]

If you'll notice carefully, the distance between the gauge and the outer vents is fairly small, and not much surface material in between. That's because the PP-Gauge trim has the outer vent holes mounted further apart by about 1/4". This means that the ventilation ducting inside the dashboard is molded differently for the PerfPack than it is for the base models. If you use the PerPack dash trim, then the vents may not be perfectly centered in the original vent ducts to provide a good seal around the edges of the foam. Is it a big deal? Probably not. However, you are probably losing a little air inside your dash as a result.

 

[AlphaCoyote]

Wow! Great work

 

[ShriverS550]

Impressive work right there. You saved yourself at least a grand in the long-haul and will probably inspire others to do something similar. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Condor1970]

Impressive work right there. You saved yourself at least a grand in the long-haul and will probably inspire others to do something similar. Thanks for sharing!

For those interested in doing this, I do recommend you practice skinning easier pieces first. You don't want to royally hose this up, and end up hating yourself.

Another option after filling in the center hole, is to simply sand the whole surface smooth and paint on several coats of black epoxy, and go with a gloss black piano finish to match the outside trim on the car. Or, you could spray it with auto paint for whatever color you want. I chose carbon, because I like the look, and the extra layer on the surface reinforces that filled in hole.

 

[Condor1970]

Btw, I went to the Tru-Fiber website, and they now want $1,400.00 for the Performance Pack gauge dash trim.

I'm sorry, but that's ridiculous.

 

[GuntherRedox]

Incredible work ! I'm envious

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