Simple math equation.... CAI + Tuner + CB = HP

[anotherneon]

My car makes 435 rwhp with just tuning & O/R H-pipe for power mods. Stock airbox, stock paper filter, etc. Traps 117+ mph in the 1/4 mile, despite a 3860 lb raceweight (with me in the car).

You're forgetting the driveshaft and it seems like your mods are for a 14. Are those std numbers?

Sponsored

 

[jayman33]

With just a Pro Dyno Dyno tune, JLT intake and full ARH system we pushed 467 STD and 457 SAE. Pretty robust numbers but again, those are merely numbers. With the weather we never had the opportunity to do baseline track data. We did get baseline numbers from Stock to now and its roughly a 70HP gain.

Headers help throughout the power curve and allow you to grow into them if you decide to add more power down the road. May seem like a big chunk at first but it will pay for itself down the road or, the first time you start your car

 

[BeauxXL1200]

Hmmm.

My Ruby Red is a GT Premium with PP.

Been trying to decide on a CAI but after reading ya'll's discussion above, I'm wondering if adding one would be worth it, aside from maybe a little better induction sound and aesthetics under the hood.

I doubt that I'm going to track or drag strip the car. I just love having a good looking, well handling, high performance car as my DD. She puts a smile on my face everytime I start her up.

In addition to a few aesthetic changes (e.g. window and lense tints, Plasti Dipped pony, letters, and numbers, and painted coil covers), I''m running Ford Racing 's touring cat backs and Bama's track tune. Also dropped in a K&N filter a while back.

I haven't had her dynoed, either before or after adding the cats and tune; but my butt and the smile on my face tell me she's pretty darn strong.

The CAI I'm considering is either a JLT or Steeda. If I can pick up even minimal HP a torque numbers (maybe 5 to 10 HP?) with a CAI and updating my Bama tune, I'll likely go for it.

Any thoughts from you experienced guys would be appreciated. Is it worth spending the $ or not. Thanks in advance.

 

[ShoNuff]

Where do you get 1200 from? Most of the catback are a few 100 cheaper than headers or close to the same price depending on the brand. I respect you on this forum, but please don't lump me into the majority on this forum as I am not!.... Very low blow my friend.

Crap! He is disagreeing with Anthony. Abandon thread! Abandon thread!

 

[beefcake]

Hmmm.

My Ruby Red is a GT Premium with PP.

Been trying to decide on a CAI but after reading ya'll's discussion above, I'm wondering if adding one would be worth it, aside from maybe a little better induction sound and aesthetics under the hood.

I doubt that I'm going to track or drag strip the car. I just love having a good looking, well handling, high performance car as my DD. She puts a smile on my face everytime I start her up.

In addition to a few aesthetic changes (e.g. window and lense tints, Plasti Dipped pony, letters, and numbers, and painted coil covers), I''m running Ford Racing 's touring cat backs and Bama's track tune. Also dropped in a K&N filter a while back.

I haven't had her dynoed, either before or after adding the cats and tune; but my butt and the smile on my face tell me she's pretty darn strong.

The CAI I'm considering is either a JLT or Steeda. If I can pick up even minimal HP a torque numbers (maybe 5 to 10 HP?) with a CAI and updating my Bama tune, I'll likely go for it.

Any thoughts from you experienced guys would be appreciated. Is it worth spending the $ or not. Thanks in advance.

def great for the track, stop and go traffic the stock box works well

 

[TwinTurboMustang.net]

And remember no one has a "true" cold air available. A intake that is sitting high up sucking in heat is not a cold air. It's a hot air intake. When the hood is shut, the IATs will be way way past ambient temps. In most cases it will perform way worse than the stock airbox. In fact the only cold air intake I've seen is from ProCharger. The temps are always ambient or 3 degrees above. That is a cold air. Also the intake is very close to the ground.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

You're forgetting the driveshaft and it seems like your mods are for a 14. Are those std numbers?

That 1-pc driveshaft only netted my .05 second improvement in 1/4 mile ET and absolutely zero trap speed, so basically no tangible improvement, IMHO.

Yes, my results are based on my '11 & '14 GT's, but the 5.0L V8 still responds the same in a '15, so the comparisons are useful.

 

[anotherneon]

That 1-pc driveshaft only netted my .05 second improvement in 1/4 mile ET and absolutely zero trap speed, so basically no tangible improvement, IMHO.

Yes, my results are based on my '11 & '14 GT's, but the 5.0L V8 still responds the same in a '15, so the comparisons are useful.

I was saying the driveshaft would make the dyno numbers higher

 

[Laztug]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but Coyote 5.0L's do not see any real gains from CAI's (the factory airbox is not a restriction) or from different axleback mufflers. Sure, those aftermarket CAI's look awesome when you pop the hood and those axlebacks sound great, but don't buy either expecting any power gains!

The magic is in the tuning. That's where all the power comes from when you buy a CAI/tuner combo, so save money and just get the tuner. Add an O/R mid-pipe if you want power gains from exhaust changes. Eliminating the factory cats allows for much more aggressive tuning, thus yielding better power gains.

Take it from a guy who has owned a couple of Coyotes, modded them, raced them, and documented power gains along the way.

This was true with the 11-14 5.0s, we are not sure if this will be the case with the 15. The 15s now have what seems to be a smaller air inlet box.
One thing is for sure, the mt-82 is still garbage.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

I was saying the driveshaft would make the dyno numbers higher

A dyno would only read higher if there was power freed up by the 1-pc driveshaft. Trap speed is the true barometer of horsepower as the physical measurement of horsepower is torque applied over a known distance in a know time. Basic physics. Since my car's trap speed did not change by switching to a 1-pc driveshaft, my car obviously didn't make any more power with the 1-pc driveshaft. And, most people agree that a big stall converter (like mine) will read lower on a dyno, so my car probably makes more than 435 rwhp.

Sponsored