Service Advancetrac, lights and steering HELP

[bnightstar]

I have a 2019 Ford Mustang 2.3l eco sport convertible 2 door

Rear left wheel hub you buy new one replace the old one call it a day everything works. Written all over this forum.

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[BigR4444]

Had this pop up on me today. Not too happy about it. Code U0415.

Is it possible that I have a bad wheel hub/bearing after only 9k miles? (I did just get new wheels/tires, and changed all 4 rotors and pads)
Any way for me to detect specifically which wheel it is? My handheld tuner just gives the one code...

Edit*
Codes from Engineering mode
C14000
C15900
C41500

 

[bnightstar]

Had this pop up on me today. Not too happy about it. Code U0415.

Is it possible that I have a bad wheel hub/bearing after only 9k miles? (I did just get new wheels/tires, and changed all 4 rotors and pads)
Any way for me to detect specifically which wheel it is? My handheld tuner just gives the one code...

Something to note when changing tires is that you need to torque lug nuts up to spec 150 ft-lbs no one is doing this if you don't do it is a matter of very short time for your wheel hub to let go. With that in mind I think there is a very good chance your wheel hub on left rear to be gone.

 

[BigR4444]

I have a torque wrench.
OEM spec is 150 ft lbs; the Monster lugs that Project 6GR sent me say 85-95.

I met in the middle and torqued them to 125. Saw a few people around here say they did something similar and I don't think they had problems.

I suppose I should also mention that my town's roads aren't exactly silky smooth... lot of road work going on lately, and a lot of bad dips in the roads all over the place. Northeast weather, right on the ocean... its possible I hit a bad crater once or twice.
F* this town

Also, I looked into the C14000 code and it says FR, which I believe indicates front right. Hopefully wherever I bring it can diagnose it better.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I have a torque wrench.
OEM spec is 150 ft lbs; the Monster lugs that Project 6GR sent me say 85-95.

I met in the middle and torqued them to 125. Saw a few people around here say they did something similar and I don't think they had problems.

I suppose I should also mention that my town's roads aren't exactly silky smooth... lot of road work going on lately, and a lot of bad dips in the roads all over the place. Northeast weather, right on the ocean... its possible I hit a bad crater once or twice.
F* this town

Also, I looked into the C14000 code and it says FR, which I believe indicates front right. Hopefully wherever I bring it can diagnose it better.

Is it permanently off or did it just flash the code once?

As for toque values. 150 is the right number for the studs.

If the lug nuts you bought can’t handle 150 you didn’t get ones compatible with the car’s specs. Anyhoo the monsters will be fine at 150.

If your hub is out, you can diagnose that by noise or jacking up the car, getting a big bear hug on the wheel and trying to shift it around. If it feels solid and isn’t making noise, and the advancetrak warning was a one time thing, then probably the computer just freaked out over a off peice of pacement or a bump. It happens from time to time over bad pavement. I’ve had a few very rare instances in the 80k miles I have on the car

 

[BigR4444]

Is it permanently off or did it just flash the code once?

If your hub is out, you can diagnose that by noise or jacking up the car, getting a big bear hug on the wheel and trying to shift it around. If it feels solid and isn’t making noise, and the advancetrak warning was a one time thing, then probably the computer just freaked out over a off peice of pacement or a bump. It happens from time to time over bad pavement. I’ve had a few very rare instances in the 80k miles I have on the car

No, the problem didnt just pop up once, its persistent. Same thing the OP described; Advancetrac, no hill climb assist, TC, ABS light, and steering feels off... Lights come on when I fire the car up, go away when I start rolling, then come on and stay on after I go about 30 feet.
Jacked the car up and wiggled the wheels, no wiggle on any of them.

 

[silverbullet85]

I'm not seeing how wheels torqued to 95 makes the hub go bad and magically 150lflbs that doesn't happen. Probably just bad quality control or road conditions that some people live in. I've NEVER used a torque wrench on any wheel of any of my personal cars and never once had an issue. Had a 02 built ford lightning a 15 gt 17gt 19gt all have had multiple sets of wheels and tires and never one problem nor have I ever had a lug become loose on me. I always put my 16in 1/2 inch drive rachet on my lugs before any road trips and no issues ever.

 

[BigR4444]

bad quality control or road conditions that some people live in.

You have no idea. I know where all the bad spots are. And I do my best to avoid them; but to find em, ya gotta hit em once or twice.
The big issue has been my precious GT500 front bumper that I love so much, scraping... but it's polypropylene so it's shaking off the hits. Still, cant be good for the suspension or hubs.... this damn town...

I'm hoping if I can pinpoint the specific corner, maybe I can order the ABS sensor myself and replace it - see if that works.

It appears that C14000 is the front right, but I can't seem to find info of the other two codes
C15900, C41500

If they were to both say front right, then I'll feel confident enough to order the part and give it a whirl.

 

[BigR4444]

So, I'll post my "resolution" here for the next guy who has this problem, cuz Ive come across a dozen different things people did to get these codes to go away.

Took the leap and ordered a new ABS sensor for the front right from Rockauto; $42 with shipping; came in two days; didnt have the chance to do it until yesterday (Monday)

Cleaned the sensor off first, bolted it back in, lights still there. Pulled the sensor out, put the new one in, lights still there; drove the car around the block, used my SCT Rev-x handheld to clear the codes, didnt work, dashboard still lit up.
Hmm.... Maybe its a different wheel...

Read somewhere that Advance has legit OBDii scanners, and theyll check you for free; drove up there, plugged in, guy isnt getting any codes, and they think its because the software on their scanner is out of date, and it doesnt work on newer cars; whatev...

I decide Im just gunna buy one they got there, Ill take it home and do it myself; might need it in the future anyway. $99... not the end of the world.

So I fire the car up, leave the lot, waiting for the lights to come back on after 50ft cuz thats what they do....
Except they dont....
My steering is back to normal, no lights on the dash.... Car is back at 100% functionality apparently.

So I dont know if it was the scanner being plugged in or what...?

My guess is, the front right abs sensor WAS the problem, and I solved the problem Monday when I replaced it; but maybe I didnt drive far enough or fast enough for the computer to get a good enough reading to decide everything was good to go...??

So if your reading this in the future with the same problem, after any action you take, consider that the car just might need to be pushed a bit before the lights go away.

*Special thanks to the B**** who didnt let me in when the right lane was blocked off... I drove around her like a f***** angry maniac because she was stupid and not paying attention, and maybe breaking 50mph was just what the car needed....
*and special thanks to Eldeytahali for posting that video on page 3, as it was extremely helpful.

If my problem comes back (knock on wood) ill come back and chime in.

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