Sensor failings. You could have one too!

[Deleted member]

I ordered a new sensor from ebay, but until it reaches 30 days, that’s not enough or I can drive a sensor that I have from the factory. Here at idle photo, today.

Just keep an eye on your fuel pressure actual vs desired. If the actual is constantly way lower than the desired especially under power, then park it.

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[jbailer]

Thanks Blyman93 for sharing this. I just replaced mine, very easy. BTW, if you don't have a 24mm deep socket, check if you have a 15/16", that fits perfect and worked for me along with the 12mm wrench to hold the line. Mine cracked loose pretty easy after 5 years and about 50k miles. After breaking loose it was immediately finger loose. Replacement part came with the o-ring. The only place I've ever had a problem is, there's a left turn I make that I have to almost stop for and it's going slightly up hill in the turn, then flat. Almost every time I take that turn, the car stutters and lurches. I'll watch to see if this makes a difference there but my idle was already smooth. My engine is an early 15 Spain engine.

 

[FreePenguin]

The sensor at the bottom (BA) is the factory sensor:

The blue O-ring didn't come on the new sensor so I had to move it over, you can definitely tell some exterior design changes.

Here is the picture of the sensor itself:

You can see the vent hole that's mentioned before, and you can see the discoloration from the fuel vapor. I have only used 93 Octane, Top Tier fuel from Costco in this vehicle, it's never seen a lower octane rating.

There was an immediate difference in idle quality, when looking at the factory Air/Fuel gauge on the center of the dash the needle and readings definitely doesn't bounce between the 13.8 and 14.2 and holds steady between 14 and 14.1.

I haven't hooked up my scanner/scope to it yet to see if the factory reading is as accurate as the sensor from the OBD2 system. But I have a feeling it will be pretty close.

Plugs looked good and gapped accordingly (still), they were purchased and installed less than 2500 miles ago.

I just ordered this due to your post

minedoes the 13.8-14.2 bounce back fourth, wondering if the swap for me may rectify it

 

[RollOver360]

2019 Ecoboost, just started throwing a few CEL’s P018B, P018C, P0420 so I did a search and came across this thread. I was surprised to find a “old” low pressure fuel sensor installed. Just ordered the new replacement sensor which hopefully clears these codes.
Mod’s Cobb intake, 3” catless exhaust, MBRP street exhaust, Cobb OTS stage 1 tune.

 

[TorqueMan]

I was surprised to find a “old” low pressure fuel sensor installed.

Should be no surprise. To date no one has posted any data showing the stock sensor to be more prone to failure than the Motorcraft equivalent--which is likely why Ford continues to install them in in ALL of its cars equipped with the 2.3L EcoBoost, not just Mustangs. Nor has anyone posted any data showing how the Motorcraft equivalent part is superior. Is it different? Yes, to the naked eye, but as far as anyone has been able to determine it is neither more reliable nor more accurate than the stock part.

Ford has clearly staked its future on the EcoBoost platform, and the 2.3L version is a star player. It's used in a variety of models including the new Bronco, and it's the ONLY engine option available for the Ranger, which is becoming one of Ford's best-sellers. And Ford installs these sensors in ALL OF THE 2.3L ENGINES IT PRODUCES.

If you read about these sensors on Mustang enthusiast forums you'll see claims (but no data) that the stock sensors are inferior, can cause catastrophic engine failure (in TUNED engines--I've seen nothing about them causing failures of stock engines), and are easily replaced with a relatively cheap part. If it's such an easy decision for us owners then shouldn't it be a no-brainer for Ford? No one has ever answered why Ford--a company that has clearly gone all-in on the 2.3L EcoBoost engine--would continue to install a part in all of the engines it produces that can cause catastrophic engine failures AND which has a readily available (and purportedly more accurate/reliable/whatever) replacement.

There are literally MILLIONS of these engines operating world-wide. If there is a problem with these sensors why don't we hear about them anywhere besides Mustang enthusiast forums?

 

[RollOver360]

Interesting. Thanks for the knowledge bomb. Since flashing back to the stock tune I’ve had no CEL with the OEM sensor installed. Also forgot how the top end dies off at the higher rpm’s. lol

 

[TorqueMan]

Interesting. Thanks for the knowledge bomb. Since flashing back to the stock tune I’ve had no CEL with the OEM sensor installed. Also forgot how the top end dies off at the higher rpm’s. lol

Something to keep in mind that I've mentioned in the past about these sensors and tunes. Every production part has a failure/defect rate. In other words, a certain number of parts come off the production line, make it through QA testing, and get sold that will fail and/or have defects right out of the box. Now add the fact that all of the catastrophic engine failures I've read about associated with this sensor involve a tune. My hypothesis is that the stock software is more fault tolerant than modified software in that the stock software will better protect the engine in the event of bad sensor readings. If I'm right, then those running a tune who replace a sensor that's currently working with one that has a manufacturing defect may be creating the very situation they are trying to avoid.

My advice to those who buy into the "cheap insurance" argument and can't resist the urge to replace their sensor: revert back to the stock software first. Run the new sensor for a few weeks on the stock software to make sure it's good before switching back to your tune. That way if the new sensor is indeed bad you won't find out by blowing up your engine.

 

[RollOver360]

Well I replaced the sensor this morning and drop about 50 miles and the following codes popped up
P018b, p018c, p0420, p05a1.
Mod’s Cobb intake, 3” catless exhaust, MBRP street exhaust, stock tune.

 

[steve0s550]

Well I replaced the sensor this morning and drop about 50 miles and the following codes popped up
P018b, p018c, p0420, p05a1.
Mod’s Cobb intake, 3” catless exhaust, MBRP street exhaust, stock tune.

Do you run a defouler on your DP? Did you disconnect the battery power before you swapped the sensor?

 

[RollOver360]

Do you run a defouler on your DP? Did you disconnect the battery power before you swapped the sensor?

Down to 2 codes now, p0420 And P05A1 after disconnecting the battery and doing some driving.I looked into a 90 degree defouler but haven’t purchased it. Any suggestions on brand for the defouler? Thanks

 

[steve0s550]

This is the one I used

https://www.ebay.com/itm/J-Style-O2...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[RollOver360]

This is the one I used

https://www.ebay.com/itm/J-Style-O2...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Appreciate it. Got one coming!
Also this is the cheapest I found the replacement sensor, was $37 but has now gone up to $42 but still cheaper than $75 on most sites. Motorcraft CM5250 Acceleration Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHL47P...abc_TB29JC51FQ48MWG6WMXR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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