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Second time at the track and at my whits end.

BlackGT

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Here is a pic of my BEST runs. For the life of me, I don't know how to lower my 60 foot. The slip with the number 54 at the top was on a set of 245-40-17 road course slicks that a guy let me borrow and the other two runs are on a set of slightly used 275 40 17 M/T street ETs that I picked up in hopes of doing better.

The car was set in the track mode with the advance traction off. I would heat the tires up and at the light would power brake it to load the drive train. The tires would still spin off the line and when changing into second.

If I could get a better 60 foot and traction down the track, I think I could break out of the 7s. Any advise? by the way, these two trips to the track are the only two times I have ever been on a drag strip. I know practice will help but like I said at the beginning, these times are my best, the worst were not worth mentioning.



the weather was mid 90s with equal humidity and this is an 1/8th mile track.
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LETHAL

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Longer burnout/more heat?

Air pressure settings?

As you stated "More practice"

These cars are tricky to launch, much less a s/c one.

Beyond all that, this weather is TERRIBLE for DA and racing. The DA the other night at Bristol was above 5700 and nobody was running worth a shit. Check the DA for the track you were at for the day you were there.
 

bluebeastsrt

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Start at 18psi and drop a pound of air til your sixty stops improving. a 3-5 second burn out is plenty. Keep practing. If it was easy everyone would be good at it.
 

Five Oh Brian

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Stall converter and M&H Racemaster D/R's FTW!
 

Poppacapp

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If the car is not spinning on launch, there is most likely nothing you can do for a better 60ft other than a stall converter. My best runs came from footbraking to 1800-2000rpm, and having the throttle wide open on launch before my foot even comes off the brake pedal.
 

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BlackGT

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I didn't go any lower than 18 psi because I was afraid to break the bead from the rim. I'm not sure how far I can go.

the DA was 3080 and the relative density was 91.29. That's all greek to me but there it is.

I am wanting to avoid a stall converter because I don't plan on drag racing the car on a regular basis and would rather keep the driving as close to stock characteristics as possible because my wife drives the car from time to time.

My whole objective in taking it to the track was to see just how well I could get it to run. I had it dynoed to see what the hp was but I have always heard the track is where the truth will be told.
 

Poppacapp

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I didn't go any lower than 18 psi because I was afraid to break the bead from the rim. I'm not sure how far I can go.

the DA was 3080 and the relative density was 91.29. That's all greek to me but there it is.

I am wanting to avoid a stall converter because I don't plan on drag racing the car on a regular basis and would rather keep the driving as close to stock characteristics as possible because my wife drives the car from time to time.

My whole objective in taking it to the track was to see just how well I could get it to run. I had it dynoed to see what the hp was but I have always heard the track is where the truth will be told.

Bottom line on getting personal bests is to only change ONE thing at a time for each run. You need to run as much air in your tires as you can without spinning. More air is less rolling resistance. Also if you are running your full size tires up front, pump them up to about 50psi(dont go over max rating on tire sidewall). I take a portable air pump with me to the track so I can pump my rears back up when done and add to fronts.

If you find your air pressure where you dont spin. Then you try launching a little higher in rpm each run until you either get no more gains, or the tires break loose. In that case, you lower pressure a couple psi, and try that same exact rpm launch again. You have to pay attention to the details when trying for PBs... run with similar IAT/CHT temps etc etc etc.. Keep as many variables the same as you can. Also, make notes on each slip of launch rpm, DA, tire pressure etc.
 

JmalB

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Don't use the road course slicks again. The sidewall design is too stiff. Stick with street ETs. I'd say start at 15psi, but working your way down from 18psi is good too. And of course: practice, practice, practice.
 

Mikeiscoo2

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Here is a pic of my BEST runs. For the life of me, I don't know how to lower my 60 foot. The slip with the number 54 at the top was on a set of 245-40-17 road course slicks that a guy let me borrow and the other two runs are on a set of slightly used 275 40 17 M/T street ETs that I picked up in hopes of doing better.

The car was set in the track mode with the advance traction off. I would heat the tires up and at the light would power brake it to load the drive train. The tires would still spin off the line and when changing into second.

If I could get a better 60 foot and traction down the track, I think I could break out of the 7s. Any advise? by the way, these two trips to the track are the only two times I have ever been on a drag strip. I know practice will help but like I said at the beginning, these times are my best, the worst were not worth mentioning.



the weather was mid 90s with equal humidity and this is an 1/8th mile track.
I run that NA idk why your MPH is so slow.
 

Tommy V

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Yea i agree somethings not right,thats not a great 60ft but not terrible.Mph is low for a fi car.
 

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BlackGT

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its an 1/8th mile track. I haven't been back to the track in a while. I have been replacing the deck on the house. I do want to try again but it may be a few weeks.
 

Excelerater

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18PSI is find for a drag radial and I assure you a stock GT wont spin them on the rim
but if your worried buy some Moroso rim screws,easy to install with a drill bit and screw gun.

If the track is not prepped for a radial tire no one will hook on it .
Most tracks wont glue on basic test and tune days and worse than that most
tracks prep for slick cars,not radials.......Huge difference . Try making a pass
when they have a 275 radial race(reading the time slip ad at the top)
,bet your car dead hooks then

I recommend you film your passes,camera on drivers side behind rear bumper
it will tell the whole story
 

kcc0521

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I think the MPH is OK considering it is a convertible, with a bad 60ft and high DA. How much boost are you running?
 

Dntalman

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the DA was 3080 and the relative density was 91.29. That's all greek to me but there it is.

My whole objective in taking it to the track was to see just how well I could get it to run. I had it dynoed to see what the hp was but I have always heard the track is where the truth will be told.
What track d you run at?
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