rocks chips

[A Polite Canadian]

Curious. In problem areas prone to chips, has anyone tried clear Plasti Dip? I just saw at the store today and the idea dawned on me.

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[SDEcoBoost]

I bought a front end cover (Bra) which I use as needed, mostly trips or long drives, Easy on, easy off, and it has the mesh over the grills to catch rocks and bugs. Only downside, there is not cut out for the front plate, so I picked up a Craigs Custom Bracket and it fits with the bra perfectly. I have been using these since 1979, and they have on numerous occasions sacrificed themselves to protect the car. One was torn through to the soft liner, but No paint damage.
Purchased from: www.hillbankmotorsports.com

Here is a photo:

 

[foghat]

I had my bumper, hood, front fenders, A-pillars, mirrors and 8 inch strip above windshield done in xpel ultimate before the car left the dealer. So far so good.

There is no way I am avoiding rocks - my old car had literally hundreds of small pits and more more than a few bigger chips. It drove me nuts. Never again.

I know it was an old post, but to the guy saying just spend a thousand and get it repainted - well, even if you could get the bumper and hood done well for $1000 (and you can't), what are you going to do when on your way home from the paint shop you pick up another chip? Repainting as a chip protection strategy is nuts.

 

[foghat]

Curious. In problem areas prone to chips, has anyone tried clear Plasti Dip? I just saw at the store today and the idea dawned on me.

I'm sure it would work. Problem is, pretty much the entire front of the car is a 'problem area'.

 

[Blk2015GT]

:shrug: I don't know where you got this stuff, almost none of that is true on modern ppf's.

• Films don't yellow anymore, for 5-10 years at least.
• All good installers cover peeling/bubbling.. proper installation is their entire job! If you feel you can DIY you can buy the kit yourself (https://www.xpel.com/products/paint.asp) for half the cost.
• Nano-fusion on the entire hood, entire front bumper, both front fenders, and both mirrors was $995 in Houston, TX at Invisishield by Steve Perez's team (took 1st in the PPF category of the 2014 Window Film Professionals Conference)
• Respraying your hood, bumper, and fenders AND getting the paint to match on a multi-layer metallic paint... wayyyy more than $1k, but good luck with that.
• Modern films are self-healing. One rock chip will not ruin the entire thing
• You can wash and wax over the film just like the rest of the car. Its just another clear coat.
• Modern films do not make the paint fade any faster or slower
• If you don't like lines on your hood.. you shouldn't have bought a 2015 mustang bc its got plenty haha
• If you live on a dirt/rock/debris free island, then sure, there's no point. Save you some money. Me, it's not if I get a rock chip, its when.
• Of course insurance doesn't cover modifications. It won't cover your intake, exhaust, or new wheels either.

This is some serious fear mongering man. Have you ever even seen these films in person?

Anyone interested, read up at tintdude.com. Specifically: http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index...-durability-of-ppf-3m-avery-kpmf-orafol-xpel/ if you want to look at the best films out there today.

Xpel Ultimate, Nano Fusion, maybe SunTek are your best bet.
Xpel: https://www.xpel.com/products/xpel_ultimate_paint_protection_film.asp
(clearly says "self-healing" on the top of the page AND 10 year warranty against discoloration or peeling, etc.)

NanoFusion: http://nano-fusionppf.com/
(Lifetime warranty)

I don't get how people think this stuff is some forcefield. Go to the junkyard and get a junk painted car panel, cover it in film and pitch a rock at it at about 80mph. Whether it mars the film or not is irrelevant, the surface under it is soft and not titanium. It can divot and leave a mark still. With a divot the paint can still chip in that divot and will still leave marks no matter what you do.

Maybe its a bit less damage to the paint itself then without, but it won't be perfect like the day you bought the car 5 years later. People have this huge misconception about protection films and what they can do and buy into the hype at a high cost.

Also like your sofa a 2015 Mustang is not a collector item. It will not appreciate one bit. It won't lose $2,000 of value for some rock chips (expected on a used car traded in) It's a consumer car (not an exotic) meant to be driven and enjoyed not covered in plastic and kept in a garage.

That price doesn't include the detail either, or done yourself which 99%+ of people don't own a DA. Because if you clear bra a car without correcting the paint (clay & polish at a minimum) you did it wrong to begin with and locked in the crud and scratches.

Prices vary by location not skill of the installer necessarily. Just like housing, just because you pay x in Texas doesn't mean it's x in California. I've seen up to $1,500 for a full front end regularly.

If you're paying more than $1,000 to get a bumper or hood repainted you're getting ripped off to begin with (and a reason I bought black so it's not metallic paint costing more).

Get in a accident or even slight rub against another car? That film on the front is goner and your $750-1000 to redo it (except the hood maybe depending) as your insurance isn't going to replace your film with the bumper/parts.

Not fear mongering, my opinion, which you seem to have a problem with me expressing for some personal reason; likely because you must defend your purchase.

 

[JimmyTwoTimes]

What about a leather bra?

 

[MrPotato]

Don't the leather bras scratch and swirl the piss out of the car?

 

[foghat]

I don't get how people think this stuff is some forcefield. Go to the junkyard and get a junk painted car panel, cover it in film and pitch a rock at it at about 80mph. Whether it mars the film or not is irrelevant, the surface under it is soft and not titanium. It can divot and leave a mark still. With a divot the paint can still chip in that divot and will still leave marks no matter what you do.

Maybe its a bit less damage to the paint itself then without, but it won't be perfect like the day you bought the car 5 years later. People have this huge misconception about protection films and what they can do and buy into the hype at a high cost.

Also like your sofa a 2015 Mustang is not a collector item. It will not appreciate one bit. It won't lose $2,000 of value for some rock chips (expected on a used car traded in) It's a consumer car (not an exotic) meant to be driven and enjoyed not covered in plastic and kept in a garage.

That price doesn't include the detail either, or done yourself which 99%+ of people don't own a DA. Because if you clear bra a car without correcting the paint (clay & polish at a minimum) you did it wrong to begin with and locked in the crud and scratches.

Prices vary by location not skill of the installer necessarily. Just like housing, just because you pay x in Texas doesn't mean it's x in California. I've seen up to $1,500 for a full front end regularly.

If you're paying more than $1,000 to get a bumper or hood repainted you're getting ripped off to begin with (and a reason I bought black so it's not metallic paint costing more).

Get in a accident or even slight rub against another car? That film on the front is goner and your $750-1000 to redo it (except the hood maybe depending) as your insurance isn't going to replace your film with the bumper/parts.

Not fear mongering, my opinion, which you seem to have a problem with me expressing for some personal reason; likely because you must defend your purchase.

Of course it is not a force field. The right size pebble at the right speed will do some damage (I've got pics of what the 'damage' will look like if you want) - but it will be less than without the film. btw, any decent installer will properly prep the surface and include that in the install price. At least in my neck of the woods.

Bigger chips aside, it protects from smaller collisions fine. The front bumper and hood on my last car almost looked like it had been sandblasted. After going through a winter with the xpel ultimate on my mustang, everything still looks really good. But, yes, you are right there are a couple spots where there is 'damage' - looks more like a scuff vs chip though.

If you get into an minor accident, you are not paying to get everything redone. Just the panel (bumper or hood or fender) to be redone. Honestly, I am not sure if insurance would cover this or not. I guess no, but couldn't say for certain.

I am not doing this for resale (I personally just cannot stand all the chips), but to suggest paint damage won't affect resale is disingenuous. When I sold my 135i, I had two people flat out tell me all the chips and pits were the reason they'd look else where.

Of course a lot depends on the buyer and your mileage may vary.

Obviously, if you rather save the money and repaint, that is your choice, but, assuming you do actually repaint due to chips, I bet you come out behind in the long run.

Especially if you are talking painting hood AND bumper (and how many times are you going to do this?). Let's not even talk about taking care of the few chips you will get on the roof or fenders.

A bit of anecdotal evidence. My friend put just the plain jane 3m ppf on his bumper and the first 16 inches or so of his hood. About 8 months later, the bumper and first 16 inches of hood still looks almost new, the rest of the hood, while not a disaster, has multiple chips in it.

Same with my old mazdaspeed 3. I only had 16 inches of the hood done. After 2 years the bumper and non-covered portion of hood were quite pitted. Covered portion was still relatively fine.

To each their own. Is ppf the end all and be all? Probably not. But let's not pretend it doesn't provide decent protection.

 

[valentinoamoro]

Of course it is not a force field. The right size pebble at the right speed will do some damage (I've got pics of what the 'damage' will look like if you want) - but it will be less than without the film. btw, any decent installer will properly prep the surface and include that in the install price. At least in my neck of the woods.

Bigger chips aside, it protects from smaller collisions fine. The front bumper and hood on my last car almost looked like it had been sandblasted. After going through a winter with the xpel ultimate on my mustang, everything still looks really good. But, yes, you are right there are a couple spots where there is 'damage' - looks more like a scuff vs chip though.

If you get into an minor accident, you are not paying to get everything redone. Just the panel (bumper or hood or fender) to be redone. Honestly, I am not sure if insurance would cover this or not. I guess no, but couldn't say for certain.

I am not doing this for resale (I personally just cannot stand all the chips), but to suggest paint damage won't affect resale is disingenuous. When I sold my 135i, I had two people flat out tell me all the chips and pits were the reason they'd look else where.

Of course a lot depends on the buyer and your mileage may vary.

Obviously, if you rather save the money and repaint, that is your choice, but, assuming you do actually repaint due to chips, I bet you come out behind in the long run.

Especially if you are talking painting hood AND bumper (and how many times are you going to do this?). Let's not even talk about taking care of the few chips you will get on the roof or fenders.

A bit of anecdotal evidence. My friend put just the plain jane 3m ppf on his bumper and the first 16 inches or so of his hood. About 8 months later, the bumper and first 16 inches of hood still looks almost new, the rest of the hood, while not a disaster, has multiple chips in it.

Same with my old mazdaspeed 3. I only had 16 inches of the hood done. After 2 years the bumper and non-covered portion of hood were quite pitted. Covered portion was still relatively fine.

To each their own. Is ppf the end all and be all? Probably not. But let's not pretend it doesn't provide decent protection.

Guys, I've had cars w/o clear bra, partial clear-bra and full jobs. Additionally, I've had these cars over the last 14 years so can add some opinions:

1) Clear bras dont yellow anymore. This occurred in the first gen 3M Scotch Guard and Venture Shield.
2) Most of the new clear bars (Suntek, XPel, Scotguard Pro) self heal. Older clear bra's could have scratches, scuffs polished off. Now many of them heal in the heat (and still can have those polished off)
3) Most clear-bra's dont have the orange peel look
4) Most clear-bra's from reputable installers come with lifetime warranties for the original owner against peeling/installation issues.
5) They are transparent to UV, meaning, no differential fading when you remove it
6) Full custom kits provide the best protection and the only one worth it. A half hood or bumper only job will create rock chipping in the part not covered, making it look strange, defeating the purpose of doing this in the first place. Lastly, the edges can catch wax if you have a bad detailer.
7) Clear bra's are invisible
8) The economics of a full kit are questionable. A job is $1000-$1500, which may be equal to the cost of a re-spray or the premium you will lose if you have chips (unless you have an exotic car where its worth it). A respray is something I would rather avoid if possible due to color matching and my preference for the factory job. Also, buyers may not believe you when you say you resprayed the car for chips - instead thinking you got in an accident.
9) You do this because you care about your car looking like new - and you usually drive it a lot. Its a psychological thing - like why you wash your car or put stripes. I cant count the number of times dump trucks threw gravel all over the freeway and my clear-bra gave me the peace of mind I needed.
10) It does keep your car looking like new.
11) Lastly, it provides protection against bird crap, eggs (LOL, I heard some people egg cars) and tree sap and love bugs etc. On a hot day, birds can etch your paint in minutes.
12) It will protect against small stones upto 65mph. Higher velocity and/or larger mass will still cause damage - but less than w/o.
13) Insurance has always paid me back for the clear-bra reinstall in cases of accidents.
14) I've had cars without them. They look like crap after 4 years, def after 6 years (if you drive it 8000 miles a year with freeway). Also, not an issue with the Stang with alum hood I'm guessing but some cars developed rust spots where I left the chips unattended.
15) Touching up chips properly is a PITA. I've done it, to do it right, you need to build up the paint over hours (or it will be obviously flatter than the factory job or just come off), then flatten it. Sometimes, depending on the gash put primer to protect the metal. Leveling it requires sanding/polishing or use of foul smelling chemicals (like Lanka bob protector). It takes a whole afternoon for one chip done right. My time is not worth that.

I dont sell clear-bra's or work for any detail firm. lol. I'm a computer engineer, its a passionate endorsement of something that gives me a lot of peace of mind! (and happiness when not only limited to cars)

 

[Jeeden]

I had a piece of blue chip stone the size of a ping pong ball go through a hella off road light on one of my older explorers one day while on I-81. There is just about nothing that is going to protect from some of these things other than not driving it.

With all the rock strikes I have had on my cars and windshields over the years, I am still shocked when I go to a state with no helmet laws and see people driving motorcycles without full face helmets.

Hope everyone with the cracked windshields has comprehensive glass protection. Mine is free for a fix or $100 for a replacement and worth every dime.

 

[MagneticA]

6) Full custom kits provide the best protection and the only one worth it. A half hood or bumper only job will create rock chipping in the part not covered, making it look strange, defeating the purpose of doing this in the first place. Lastly, the edges can catch wax if you have a bad detailer.

If you're going to do it... do it right.

 

[valentinoamoro]

If you're going to do it... do it right.

Thanks Mag. I also added a few more points on the alternatives (like touching up etc) that some people seems to endorse.

 

[Danger]

Yes one day of driving to cars and coffee gave me at least 6 new tiny dents in the front bumper.

 

[valentinoamoro]

I bought a front end cover (Bra) which I use as needed, mostly trips or long drives, Easy on, easy off, and it has the mesh over the grills to catch rocks and bugs. Only downside, there is not cut out for the front plate, so I picked up a Craigs Custom Bracket and it fits with the bra perfectly. I have been using these since 1979, and they have on numerous occasions sacrificed themselves to protect the car. One was torn through to the soft liner, but No paint damage.
Purchased from: www.hillbankmotorsports.com

Here is a photo:

Thats like a sexy girl with the nastiest braces on both sets of teeth.
Additionally, those burn the paint and cause terrible differential fading.
Lastly, they just protect a small area.

 

[Yamaha811]

Anyone else having issues with rocks kicking up and hitting front bumper and chipping the paint?

Yup seems to draw them in have my bumper with Knicks one on the hood and my headlight has a nasty rock nip in it

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