Ridetech Level 2 Coilovers installed:

[MaverickGT]

It was hard to tell because it was 20 degrees hotter on my last test day. But I ran the same laptimes. I did notice braking was alot better. I need to check my zipties and measure how much the shock was moving. With the 750 I was getting some mid corner slide and was having to wait to long to get back on the throttle. I use my car for autox and track use, so I kinda shot for a all around combo. The s550 chassis is so good, the car always feels fast. My next set up change I'm gonig to try 600 rear springs and put the rear bar on full stiff.

For my driving style I found anything over 450lb in the front, the car was pushing to much. So I'm slowly backing down on front rate to see how it feels. The 375 springs felt good and I was getting 1.3 G's all around, so Ill leave the front for now, and try the above rear setting until I get understeer.

Sounds like you've done some thorough testing. Thanks for the info. That Arizona weather can get hot. Turning 1.3G's even with the RE71 in that heat is good.

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[plc268]

Just curious, has anyone installed the steeda billet sway bar mounts with the ridetech sway bar relocation bracket?

I'm just finishing up the install, and that's the only thing I have left to do, and I think I threw out the standard mount that comes with the sway bar.

I suppose I could put the stock sway bar on, but I'd rather not.

 

[gsxr1300]

I used the standard mounts. What springs did you go with?

 

[plc268]

I bought it from CJ Pony, and they specify 300lb front and 400lb rear.

Ran to the hardware store and picked up some more bolts... maybe I can make this work. The primary thing was that the bolts included are just too short since the billet mounts are much thicker.

Also, I'd just like to say this: I really wish ridetech would've used metric hardware. I know their primary customer base is old muscle and 100% SAE hardware, but it was really annoying switching back and forth all the time. There's a few other things I'd change, like using flanged nuts and bolts in place of washers everywhere. Would make it much easier to install.

 

[Super Werty]

I changed out the bolts washers and nuts on the top of the front struts to grade 8. The kit came with grade 5

 

[plc268]

So I ended up making the steeda billet mounts work. I had to get some longer 3/8 screws. I ended up getting 1" 3/8 hex cap screws, and it worked fine.

Also having an issue with ride height. I believe it was asked before, but I didn't see it answered: but does adding preload increase or decrease ride height? I tried to get the preloads all pretty equal on each axle, but I still had some inconsistency. I tried increasing preload, and it seemed to raise the corner, but not by much anyway.

I suppose I should wait a little bit for the springs to settle, but the initial ride height is higher than my steeda progressive springs, which doesn't seem right.

 

[NvrFinished]

Disconnect one end of a swaybar link on both front and back before you check ride height. I was getting swaybar bind and it was messing with my ride height adjustments big time. I ended up going with the adjustable links (which I knew I would need anyways) and it solved my problems. Adding preload will raise your ride height.

 

[plc268]

Ok. That sorta makes sense. One swaybar link on the rear was a little difficult to get in, so I can see how that can affect things. Adjustable links seems like an easy enough fix that I was probably going to do anyway.

And that's what I figured about the preload. In my mind, I had the opposite preconception (adding preload would lower the car) and my results were different.

So, I'll order some adjust endlinks and reset my preload to a little bit above 0, and my car should be at the lowest at that point? I'm not looking for super low, but my car on steeda progressives were lower than what the Ridetech coilovers sat at... and the Steeda Progressives advertise a roughly 1" drop, whereas the Ridetech's advertise something like a 2" drop and adjustable ride height. So that's where my confusion arises from.

So, I'll get the adjustable endlinks, and see where my suspension sits after that.

 

[5ABI VT]

Disconnect one end of a swaybar link on both front and back before you check ride height. I was getting swaybar bind and it was messing with my ride height adjustments big time. I ended up going with the adjustable links (which I knew I would need anyways) and it solved my problems. Adding preload will raise your ride height.

Curious which adjustable links you went with ?

 

[NvrFinished]

I went with Steeda since I am running their sway bars. BMR makes good ones as well.

 

[plc268]

I just picked up the steeda ones as well since they are on sale right now.

 

[5ABI VT]

I'm going to go with steeda ones as well. I just hope they're short enough so I can set my bar where I need at driving height. With the relocating mountnin the rear it already changes the angle of the bar so lowering much further just puts the bar at a bad angle to function. I'm hoping they are shorter than stock.

I'm having another issue as well in that I can't go lower on the drivers side. The dcollar to adjust ride height hits on the end link tab and I had to stop there :frusty: . I sent them an email
But no reply I may just angle grind a bit as I only need another 2 threads down.

If I may ask here anyone looking to sell or interested in selling me their stock front and rear links ? [email protected]

 

[5ABI VT]

Just an update . I didn't order the steeda adjustable end links because they never replied back on their adjustable length range. As I'd need longer than oem links up front I wanted to be sure they could be made longer.

I ground down the sway bar tab as best I could with an angle grinder and Dremel careful not to hit the shock body or threads . Bit of a pain but managed to get it down so I could drop the collar down which is pretty much on its last thread. This is where it hits on the drivers side:


But I am now wondering... if I use the lower assembly setup that was the original design that had the sway bar tabs mounted lower, I believe I could use the oem links with the original design to help get the sway bar where I'd like it. Or, the adjustable steeda links would work as the old tab location was lower (requiring a shorter end link). Sent Ridetech some emails hopefully they reply. Maybe Josh is not with them anymore not sure :shrug:

I'm in a bit of a bind though as I need to go about 1/4 lower to be where I want. When I originally contacted Ridetech in 2015 I had asked for shorter length dampers or assembled height setup because I knew how I had wanted to set the car up.. not it's kicking me in the butt for not getting it like that. :frusty:

Will be asking Ridetech if they will rebuild a damper with a shorter length shaft to get the damper where it can better perform at my ride height. I will say though for being maxed out like this the ride is fantastic. The car doesn't bounce and is still handling great. :cheers:

 

[NvrFinished]

What rate springs are you running up front? Also, is the top of the spring still in contact with the upper coil spring cap when the suspension is at full droop?

I'm running a 350lb spring up front versus their standard 300lb spring and my adjuster nut is a good 1.5" higher than where you are sitting now. If I were to lower mine another 1/2", the spring would not contact the upper coil spring cap at full droop. I'm wondering if my springs are shorter than yours due to the higher spring rate.

Also, I can tell you with certainty that the Steeda sway bar link bolt does not stick out as far as stock. It's about the length of the threaded portion of the stock bolt.

 

[gsxr1300]

NvrFinished What size front tire do you have?

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