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Recall and Immediate Stop Sale on 8,026 GT350 and GT350R Models: Engine Oil Cooler

nastang87xx

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Under certain conditions, manufacturers are required to provide reimbursement for certain costs incurred by owners to remedy safety defect conditions prior to a recall. Not after. In my own case, for example, I'm not asking for reimbursement. And under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, it is illegal for manufacturers or dealers to void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work.
Which a lot of people don't understand from the beginning too. I have a buddy who just started to mod his '15 GT and he was worried about voiding the warranty by doing a catback and I asked him "void what...? If your power seats fail, you really think that Ford is going to deny service because you touched a system that has zero bearing on the incident system? Dude..."


You are correct regarding improper installation of said parts, or in this case, the hose assembly. If there was an engine problem (catastrophic failure, for example) according to the FTC, the manufacturer or dealer must be able to demonstrate that it was the improper installation that caused the issue. Back to my point about doing this myself. If asked why, I've given a couple of examples that I would suggest. But that doesn't dictate how MM would be applied were the failure to be unrelated to the installation of the supplied by Ford (and paid for without reimbursement), recalled hose assembly.
How would that process actually work? An adjuster/technical underwriter?
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Zitrosounds

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As I stated up above...





Ford is not supplying the recalled parts at no cost to anyone other than their dealer service network. That's fine, I'm not looking to take advantage of the "free" portion of the recall. The approved part is available at cost through Ford's own dealer parts network and as I mentioned earlier, Magnuson-Moss isn't somehow superseded here.


Regarding any "check off" I mentioned that about OASIS in my initial post. I'll also be notifying Ford as well as the Recall Management Division (RMD) at the NHTSA (they maintain the administrative records for all safety recalls, and monitors these recalls to ensure that the scope is appropriate, and that the recall completion rate and remedy are adequate). I consider that due diligence on my end.
I will be honest and speak from experience. The level of investigation required to find evidence that the part was replaced and led to a failure of some sort is rather extensive and not normal practice for dealership maintenance. I say this from experience with modifications in previous cars (although mild) and drive train component failures. I just think it is ludicrous to pay for the part!!!! And on that merit I will have my dealer do it with the same tech that replaced my engine who I have much trust on confidence in a technically proficient line replacement.
 

petstang

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This is insane. I suspect either they found a way (not per protocol) to swap the lines from under the hood, or you have an ACTIVE LEAK. Check your oil immediately and make sure it is in the hash marks. There is no way there should be that much oil on the splitter/belly pan if they took it off the car to do the line swap.
I agree and that was exactly my argument I used yesterday whilst talking to the Dealership Service Manager and requesting the car to be cleaned and checked again.
How is it possible to spill all that oil on the bottom of the car whilst the recall instructions clearly indicated that the bottom has to come off ? I think I know ( I assume) what happened ? When I brought in the car, I requested an oil change rather then topping off with the 1 qrt of supplied oil. So most probably the technician took off the filter first before removing the splitter and bottom side, which caused the oil spill ?
I did check the oil level and that seems to be ok so I don't think it is a leak. Having said that, the spots of oil that I had on my garage floor looked like "clear, fresh" oil and not oil that has been in the engine for about 2500 miles ?
The other thing that I forgot to mention is that the connection with the oil cooler ( driver side) has like a "white paper" tape around it - it looks like painters tape ? Can't see or feel any leaks though. Is this normal ? Thanks
 

Zitrosounds

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I agree and that was exactly my argument I used yesterday whilst talking to the Dealership Service Manager and requesting the car to be cleaned and checked again.
How is it possible to spill all that oil on the bottom of the car whilst the recall instructions clearly indicated that the bottom has to come off ? I think I know ( I assume) what happened ? When I brought in the car, I requested an oil change rather then topping off with the 1 qrt of supplied oil. So most probably the technician took off the filter first before removing the splitter and bottom side, which caused the oil spill ?
I did check the oil level and that seems to be ok so I don't think it is a leak. Having said that, the spots of oil that I had on my garage floor looked like "clear, fresh" oil and not oil that has been in the engine for about 2500 miles ?
The other thing that I forgot to mention is that the connection with the oil cooler ( driver side) has like a "white paper" tape around it - it looks like painters tape ? Can't see or feel any leaks though. Is this normal ? Thanks
The tape is masking tape and it is normal used at factory during installation. Reading your post I am most certain the oil you see is just messy work from the tech. It doesn't take much oil to make that kind of mess. When the oil gets hot it thins out and spreads like crazy during drives.
 

Offboost

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Took my splitter off today and also lower belly pan very easy, the oil line replacement looks like it should take about 10 minutes. Not sure how so many dealerships are screwing this up! I trust my dealership but at the same time I will inspect everything after the install then change my oil and reinstall the splitter and belly pan.

Note 7500+ miles of hard driving and the lines are bone dry and the fittings look perfect on the original lines I know this recall is not needed on my car but at least it will be done and I wont need to worry any more.
 

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04Terminator

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Let's try this again. I have an appointment for Tuesday. I asked about rivets and of course they had no idea what I was talking about so I asked if they could order some, just in case the ones on the car were destroyed (and I looked underneath the splitter and saw the rivet heads were scratched up in the front). She said there are only four in the center section of the splitter. Does this sound right? It looked like more than that. In either case I asked her to order 8. She seemed unwilling until I said I'd pay for them...at $1.50 each.
 

THX 138

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Thank you for posting this pic of the replacement lines. I had the recall done last Friday, and when I checked the lines afterwards, I noticed the metal zip tie and the black vinyl tape near the center bracket. I figured the local service tech had added those items on his own for whatever reason, and I was starting to second-guess whether he should have added them, and why. Good to see they're part of the OEM replacement lines... I feel a little better now! :thumbsup:
 

THX 138

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Let's try this again. I have an appointment for Tuesday. I asked about rivets and of course they had no idea what I was talking about so I asked if they could order some, just in case the ones on the car were destroyed (and I looked underneath the splitter and saw the rivet heads were scratched up in the front). She said there are only four in the center section of the splitter. Does this sound right? It looked like more than that. In either case I asked her to order 8. She seemed unwilling until I said I'd pay for them...at $1.50 each.
There are 22 rivets in all. I seem to recall there are 16 in the center splitter, and three on each side splitter. I could be off on the distribution though. Here's a thread on it: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74841
 

rb92gt

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Let's try this again. I have an appointment for Tuesday. I asked about rivets and of course they had no idea what I was talking about so I asked if they could order some, just in case the ones on the car were destroyed (and I looked underneath the splitter and saw the rivet heads were scratched up in the front). She said there are only four in the center section of the splitter. Does this sound right? It looked like more than that. In either case I asked her to order 8. She seemed unwilling until I said I'd pay for them...at $1.50 each.
No rivets need to be removed to remove the splitter, they help keep your splitter from scraping the ground. Not sure why you want to replace them if they are only scratched, that is what they are suppose to do.
 

04Terminator

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No rivets need to be removed to remove the splitter, they help keep your splitter from scraping the ground. Not sure why you want to replace them if they are only scratched, that is what they are suppose to do.
That's all they're there for...to be scratched?
 

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rb92gt

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Offboost

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Took my car in at 7am this morning for my appointment i already removed the splitter and belly pan on my own. Met with the wdvisor and tech spotted each a 20 and my car was done 45 minutes later no screw ups everything went perfect.

Went to my job raisec it on the lift changed the oil and filter torqued filter too 18lbs reinstalled the belly pan and spitter filled with oil and everything is good now.

Very happy all wemnt well and tech did a good job of installing the lines did not make a mess of anthing.

While we should not neec to tip I think it sometimes is money well spent and makes the service guys feel good!
 

04Terminator

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84venom

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