Ramps for DIY Oil Change

[Ballistica]

I built chocks out of 2x4’s and use these whenever I’m under the car. I only use jack stands when I need the car lifted for jobs like bleeding the brakes, removing the front bumper, changing wheels/brake pads. I’ve seen too many bad things with people under the car and using jack stands.

One tip I got for oil changes that really helped me was to grab a piece of cardboard roughly the size of a 3x5 card. There is a wiring harness that hangs below the oil filter and it helps keep it dry when you take the filter off.

Oil changes can be intimidating but they’re very rewarding when you do it yourself. Just take your time!

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[MotoMike]

"....wiring harness that hangs right below the oil filter."

That is ridiculous! I'll have to look for that next time around. I'm sure a bunch of oil flowing over it isn't good for it. C'mon Ford!

 

[vinny89gt]

I built chocks out of 2x4’s and use these whenever I’m under the car. I only use jack stands when I need the car lifted for jobs like bleeding the brakes, removing the front bumper, changing wheels/brake pads. I’ve seen too many bad things with people under the car and using jack stands.

One tip I got for oil changes that really helped me was to grab a piece of cardboard roughly the size of a 3x5 card. There is a wiring harness that hangs below the oil filter and it helps keep it dry when you take the filter off.

Oil changes can be intimidating but they’re very rewarding when you do it yourself. Just take your time!

My fat ass would definitely need more 2x4s for taller cribs.

 

[The Insomnimaniac]

If you don't plan to mod your car underneath, then ramps are good for oil changes.

But if you think you will mod underneath then why not apply the ramps' money towards floor jack and stands? About $250 covers aluminum 2.5T jack plus four stands when they are on sale.

I don’t anticipate doing any mods underneath for the foreseeable future. Depending on what it is, I’d probably take it to a shop anyways. Since my s550 is my daily and only car, I can’t go tinkering around and breaking stuff

 

[The Insomnimaniac]

Also, don’t forget chocks for the wheels. Race ramps sells them as do most auto parts stores.

Definitely won’t forget those!

 

[The Insomnimaniac]

Hold up. I know you have a Viper, but you’re holding a Ferrari out on us??

Sorry for the slight de-rail OP

No worries…. I’m still trying to pick my jaw up off the floor too!

 

[The Insomnimaniac]

I've used Rhino Ramps for years. They fit under my stock ride height Mustang on 18" wheels.
My suggestion to the OP is to buy a pair of Rinos and try them. If they work, great. If not then he can return them and spend 6 times their price for Race Ramps.
We've got a guy who wants to start doing his own maintenance. Something he may, or may not, decide is for him. Is there really any need for him to spend $300+ on a set of ramps if a $50 set will work? Besides, he'll also need some basic hand tools- a wrench/socket set, oil filter wrench, funnel to do an oil change.
I'm sure the Race Ramps are fabulous for a low car but they seem like overkill for a first time oil change if an option at 1/6th the price will work.

If I could find something between Rhino and Race Ramps, that would be ideal. Cuz those race ramps are dang pricey!

 

[ORRadtech]

If I could find something between Rhino and Race Ramps, that would be ideal. Cuz those race ramps are dang pricey!

As I said previously, I've used the Rino ramps for years on pick-ups, cars and SUVs (front & rear wheel drive) with no problems. They fit under my Mustang just fine and it goes up them with no slipping on a slick concrete garage floor.
If your initial goal is only to do oil changes then get a pair and see if they fit, if yes you'll be good to go. If not return them and consider alternatives. If you think you may expand your scope of working on your car then a floor jack and stands may well be a better choice in that they will let you do more.
As you've read in this thread, there are a bunch of options, it's up to you to decide how much you want to do and how deep into your own maintenance you want to go.

 

[The Insomnimaniac]

I prefer jack stands, personally. First, less can go wrong getting car up in the air and I like to get the car high enough to fit a bucket under there to catch the oil. I use an old Fresh Step plastic cat litter pail that holds about 3 gallons. Here's way too much detail:

1. Warm up the car and then let it sit for about 5-10 minutes before draining. This thins the oil and provides a more complete drain.
2. If the car isn't level, it should be sloped towards the drain plug. (Another benefit of getting the front end of the car up in the air on jack stands.)
3. Put a large piece of cardboard under the car to catch drips and have an old towel or a few rags handy. (Oil stains concrete and dissolves blacktop/tarmac).
4. Take the fill cap off before draining. (Optional.)
5. Position the bucket rearward of the drain plug, loosen the plug carefully and slowly pull it out of its seat while controlling the oil flow and adjusting the bucket position to catch it. Once the plug is completely out, I typically drop it right into the bucket and fish it out later. (These plastic plugs make it hard to use a magnet to retrieve them....)
6. Allow it to drip for 5-10 minutes, slide the bucket out, retrieve and re-install the plug. Mop up any drips or spills.
7. Transfer the waste oil to a container for recycling. (You will need the empty bucket to replace the oil filter.)
8. Locate the oil filter and grab your choice of filter wrenches.
9. Prepare for a controlled spill when removing the filter -it's full of oil and will spill. I remove the plastic underbelly piece thats below the filter to get additional clearance. You can fashion a piece of cardboard as a drain to try to channel the oil to your bucket (or purchase a moldable piece on Amazon). You've got to shove this tightly under the filter all the way to the engine block cause leakage starts at the seal. You will still get oil on your hand and arm and wherever else it decides to flow. I like to loosen the filter a few turns until oil starts to drain, let it drain for a while, then spin the filter off quickly while keeping it upright like a cup full of coffee. Then pour the oil from the filter into the bucket. I usually just drop the whole filter into the bucket while I get the oil cleaned up.
10. Take some time to wipe up spilled oil from wherever it ends up, including you, the floor and all areas up in the engine bay.
11. Prepare a new filter by slightly lubricating it's o-ring. This keeps the seal from binding while tightening.
12. Wipe the filter sealing surface on the engine to get it good and clean, then spin the filter on as tight as you can get it by hand. Then use your filter wrench to tighten it about 1/4 to 1/3 spin more. Do not over-tighten.
13. Drop the car from it's ramp/stands and fill the engine to the fill mark with fresh oil. Keep in mind that the new filter is empty at this point. Start the car and allow it to run for a few minutes to fill the filter and otherwise circulate the oil.
14. Allow the car to sit for 5 minutes, check the fill level and top it off as needed.
15. Reset the oil life display in the car.

Done!

This has to be the most detailed set of instructions for an oil change I’ve ever seen. Thanks!

 

[CrazyHippie]

This has to be the most detailed set of instructions for an oil change I’ve ever seen. Thanks!

Hope it's helpful. I have a tendency to dive into squirrel holes sometimes. ;)

 

[CrazyHippie]

This is a good explanation; however, I recommend filling the oil filter about 1/2 full will oil to help prevent oil starvation on the first startup. Mark the filter with a piece of tape or chalk and tighten it 3/4 turn past where it touches the base when twisting it on. there is wiring directly under the filter. To prevent oil getting all over the wiring, simply form a piece of aluminum foil over the wire area. Good luck!

Good tip! Yeah, I found that wire underneath on my first change. Thought that I'd disconnect it from the module (on the bottom of the 10R80, IIRC?) to tuck it out of the way. I didn't know the process to release the connector and ended up breaking it. I plugged it back in and it seems to be staying put without a positive click anymore. What is that module anyway? Lol

 

[Kabayo]

Good tip! Yeah, I found that wire underneath on my first change. Thought that I'd disconnect it from the module (on the bottom of the 10R80, IIRC?) to tuck it out of the way. I didn't know the process to release the connector and ended up breaking it. I plugged it back in and it seems to be staying put without a positive click anymore. What is that module anyway? Lol

Not sure either, but laying the aluminum foil (not wrapping the wires, just laying the foil on top of the wires keeps them dry. I don’t know where Ford is hiring all these rocket scientists who put wires directly under the filter or have a dip stick directly under the strut tower brace or design a plastic oil pan with a plastic drain plug…go figure, hehe

 

[Bassackwards]

I have rhino ramps. A 2x6 18” long on each side is plenty to lift the front high enough to clear.

 

[Skye]

For those with race ramps, do you need to put any adhesives pads under them to prevent them from sliding around on smooth concrete?

With the textured surface of the ramp and the weight of the car, I haven't witnessed any movement at all. My earlier post gives steps on how I use them. Once in-place, I simply give the car a bit of gas and drive right up.

 

[Angrey]

Someone at Raceramps needs to take a college course in business. Revenue = sales x margin. If you're going to only sell a few, you have to make a large margin (i.e. like yacht sales). Or if you're going to make a low margin, you'd better move a million of them.

I'd love to have a set. But I'm not paying ridiculous prices for what amounts to be molded poly. They can kiss my ass. They'd probably triple their earnings if they simply brought the product down in price and made much less money on a set but 10 times as many people bought them.

Till that happens, or a competitor offers a comparable product, I'll stick with jacking rails, a floor jack and jack stands.

If one of the manufacturers that offers the Wal Mart cheap ramps ever figured out that there's a considerable market for low angle multi piece ramps, race ramps is doomed.

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