Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

[Jmtoast]

If we go custom tuning, we won't need new injectors. I will only do a bap if the logs show that I need it and VMP recommends it. They may not run the car as rich as Roush does.

Aren't Toyo r888r tires more of a road racing tire? For straight line traction, a drag radial is much better due to the sidewall construction. My new Nittos stick like Velcro.

I agree that the hotter the ambient temp, the smaller the spread is between ambient and iat2....up to a point.

As for drag mode with the cal I have, it is no more aggressive than just sport+. In stock form, drag was so brutal that it slammed my head against the headrest on each shift.

20" sticky track tire that has great straight line traction. Go check out the runs gt500's are making. Most of them are running low to mid 10's with toyo's (swap out the factory tire). A lot of high end sports cars run them for their all around performance. Same tire that the poster ran his 10.7 with on Phase 2. 195MPH speed rating also.

 

[brucelinc]

20" sticky track tire that has great straight line traction. Go check out the runs gt500's are making. Most of them are running low to mid 10's with toyo's (swap out the factory tire). A lot of high end sports cars run them for their all around performance. Same tire that the poster ran his 10.7 with on Phase 2. 195MPH speed rating also.

Maybe I misread your post. I thought you said you had wheel hop and traction issues from a 50 MPH roll and it felt unsafe.

I don't know what effect your coilovers have or maybe your car makes a helluva lot more power than mine. I can't break my DRs loose from a roll...even in first gear. By contrast, my BFG comp 2 tires would spin and hop like a bitch even in 3rd gear.

 

[Stymee]

U won’t need injectors but imho it would be silly not to add a bap if your gonna custom tune the car, just for safety

Funny my car will break the Nitto loose under 45, above 50 it dead hooks

 

[Jmtoast]

Maybe I misread your post. I thought you said you had wheel hop and traction issues from a 50 MPH roll and it felt unsafe.

I don't know what effect your coilovers have or maybe your car makes a helluva lot more power than mine. I can't break my DRs loose from a roll...even in first gear. By contrast, my BFG comp 2 tires would spin and hop like a bitch even in 3rd gear.

This is with traction control and Advance trac off in drag mode (this is the important part). I can't break them lose with the nannies on unless it's cold. The hopping is subtle, more like a little bouncing movement but I can't see what's happening back there. We do have different calibrations or at least mine has some later tweaks to the same calibration so I don't know about the power. It's just not a problem I haven't had before.

 

[Stymee]

Funny I have zero wheel hop now?
Min drop springs, irs braces (better kit)
That’s it

 

[Jmtoast]

Funny I have zero wheel hop now?
Min drop springs, irs braces (better kit)
That’s it

I need IRS braces I think. Looking at the stop the hop enthusiast kit. I'm more concerned with the sideways movement since the hopping was a one time thing on a country road but still a concern.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

If we go custom tuning, we won't need new injectors. I will only do a bap if the logs show that I need it and VMP recommends it. They may not run the car as rich as Roush does.

Aren't Toyo r888r tires more of a road racing tire? For straight line traction, a drag radial is much better due to the sidewall construction. My new Nittos stick like Velcro.

I agree that the hotter the ambient temp, the smaller the spread is between ambient and iat2....up to a point.

As for drag mode with the cal I have, it is no more aggressive than just sport+. In stock form, drag was so brutal that it slammed my head against the headrest on each shift.

That's really good to hear, when I put my 19s back on I REALLY want to be in position to move the NT05 ( non R) from back to front and buy new 305 35 19 Nitto 555Rii's for rear....

Yea my drag mode even with the EB tune on would be NUTS seemed to raise shift points a hair too ....

Btw I'm thinking hard on a deal I got going, IF it seems like I'm trolling where I don't belong, I sincerely want to learn how everyone is liking their phase 2....

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

bahahaha... Best I could do on a 2 lane country road was 123mph because my calibration wouldn't shift but holy shit was it scary. Deer, cows, cows shit, racoons, tractors, hawks..... Yeah my coil overs are very stiff and my tires where sticky enough to deal, so I was smashing whenever I wanted, but this calibration is much more stout. The IRS is a huge problem now.

Dude first time a road grater had pulled up to watch and thought I wasn't coming back....when I passed him perpendicular, I was 140 plus....( doing 1/4 mile on dragy ) he had eased his bucket out to see around tall grass to see if i was coming....I quite literally think I had a light heart attack....
The problem is, don't know if you guys have tk do this with roush, but I have to pull the "dyno plug" to make a hit loosing ALL safety because the pcm thinks its spinning at 112mph ( to be fair it IS via the log but it over reacts ) and instead of pulling timing or shutting off throttle.....it thinks ita a good idea to lean itself out to stoich at full boost/load( 1.86) as a means of traction control. ..
I'm reading the log and im log is good .....log is good.....log is good no knock with temp rise.....OMG 1.01 lambda for oh 3-4 seconds multiple hits...its not out fuel it commanded itself to do this.....lol tha hell thought that was a good idea? Haha

 

[Jmtoast]

Dude first time a road grater had pulled up to watch and thought I wasn't coming back....when I passed him perpendicular, I was 140 plus....( doing 1/4 mile on dragy ) he had eased his bucket out to see around tall grass to see if i was coming....I quite literally think I had a light heart attack....
The problem is, don't know if you guys have tk do this with roush, but I have to pull the "dyno plug" to make a hit loosing ALL safety because the pcm thinks its spinning at 112mph ( to be fair it IS via the log but it over reacts ) and instead of pulling timing or shutting off throttle.....it thinks ita a good idea to lean itself out to stoich at full boost/load( 1.86) as a means of traction control. ..
I'm reading the log and im log is good .....log is good.....log is good no knock with temp rise.....OMG 1.01 lambda for oh 3-4 seconds multiple hits...its not out fuel it commanded itself to do this.....lol tha hell thought that was a good idea? Haha

With holding up the TC switch until advanced trac and etc is off I usually don't have the nannies kick back in. I can do burnout. But It has has happened before for sure.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

20" sticky track tire that has great straight line traction. Go check out the runs gt500's are making. Most of them are running low to mid 10's with toyo's (swap out the factory tire). A lot of high end sports cars run them for their all around performance. Same tire that the poster ran his 10.7 with on Phase 2. 195MPH speed rating also.

The R888R has been a good tire with the caveat of noise and price...the new nitto NT555Rii should surpass it in straight line now...it was made to do that....no noise and cost 100-150 less each depending on size.
They also provided us sizes we actually want that 27-28 range...heck I can even get a 305 45 17 555RII and just buy 2 pairs of rears....or all the way up to 22s.... Nitto seems to have listened and provided us with a good treadwear 100 tire with a straight line grip sidewall they even make the claim its superior to its predecessor and nto5r in 60ft ..
My cousin uses the R888Rs on his car and they ARE great but his faded quick, DID make discernable noise and cost like 460 each hehe...

The GT500s doing 10.7s ect have a better traction control than our A10s....I noticed Stangmode ( like him or hate him he is a good driver ) couldn't get what i can out of his 0-60 dragy with his R888R on the street not even close really.......

The new Nitto may not prove to be the better tire but it was made for this, cost way less and comes in sizes I need....im willing to give them a shot....

 

[Jmtoast]

The R888R has been a good tire with the caveat of noise and price...the new nitto NT555Rii should surpass it in straight line now...it was made to do that....no noise and cost 100-150 less each depending on size.
They also provided us sizes we actually want that 27-28 range...heck I can even get a 305 45 17 555RII and just buy 2 pairs of rears....or all the way up to 22s.... Nitto seems to have listened and provided us with a good treadwear 100 tire with a straight line grip sidewall they even make the claim its superior to its predecessor and nto5r in 60ft ..
My cousin uses the R888Rs on his car and they ARE great but his faded quick, DID make discernable noise and cost like 460 each hehe...

The GT500s doing 10.7s ect have a better traction control than our A10s....I noticed Stangmode ( like him or hate him he is a good driver ) couldn't get what i can out of his 0-60 dragy with his R888R on the street not even close really.......

The new Nitto may not prove to be the better tire but it was made for this, cost way less and comes in sizes I need....im willing to give them a shot....

Yeah mine are a year old and I've beat the shit out of them so that might be it. They aren't supposed to last very long. What supercharger do you have?

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

With holding up the TC switch until advanced trac and etc is off I usually don't have the nannies kick back in. I can do burnout. But It has has happened before for sure.

Yea that's what I thought too I had advance trac off....its hard to reach with the stage 2 airbox and I broke the unobtainium plug had to solder wires back ect epoxy ...im going to buy one of those sunglasses N20 switch panels...read the "resistor" and make a toggle for it so that I can turn it on and off on a whim....my daughter drives the car a lot...one time I got in trouble a blue c6 which at least had a cam rolled up on me and I gave him the beans....( not something I often do but it worked out) same thing and that was interstate, it absolutely didn't spin but thought it did.....sad thing is it's really hard to tell if its done it ( unless it short shifts or pulls timing or throttle angle ect you feel that).
Daughter drives my car more than I do I want her to have all the nannies so I don't want to just leave the plug out ( you also lose line lock and performance pages ) right now im forced for safety of US vs safety for engine...i don't like that choice......
If I do the sunglass cubby switch panel I could turn other things on later like a rear mount tank or over ride to cool down....don't know about yall but even the EB will heat soak if you get it fully hot and shut it off for say 5 mins while you run in autozone for instance.....

Good luck to all

 

[Br1and2]

Y’all really think your roush calibrations are brutal in drag mode? I was very unimpressed. Maybe it was hot and I was pulling timing: I don’t know. But I can barely get mine to break the tires loose and it sure never gets out from under me, and I’m still on the stock wheels and tires. I sure joe phase 2 changes my car lol!


Side note; do these roush tunes have a break in period? My car has less than 3k miles on it so maybe it’s not fully woken. Lol

 

[brucelinc]

The Nitto NT555Rii is a helluva tire. Nitto claims that they hook better than an NT05R. They are probably not quite as good as a Mickey Thompson ET street R for the strip but those Mickeys are not streetable in my opinion. I am sure the Toyo r888r is a much better all around handling tire than either of them.

Ideally, for drag racing, you want a fairly soft sidewall and NOT a low profile. The best setup with our kind of power is probably 305/45r17. My Nittos are 305/35R19 and I am very happy with them.....street at around 29 PSI and strip...TBD.

Speaking of power, I sometimes think that the cal in my car holds power back in 1st and 2nd gears...and maybe part of 3rd. Not just the torque management at the shifts but overall. It shifts to 4th at around 75 and that is when I really feel pushed back in the seat.....like every horse is alive, well and hungry. Just for kicks, I unplugged the traction control plug by the airbox. Other than having warning lights, that made no difference at all in the shifts or power in the lower gears.

 

[Br1and2]

Also, I’m new to the a10, is it normal for this thing to jump between so many gears all the time?