Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

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Stymee

Stymee

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Just back from the dyno and happy with the results. Phase 1 670 kit on FRPP tune.
20191110_101424.jpg
Just remember that’s dynoed in standard correction, if it’s a 6sp your more like 580rw which is exactly what the kits rated

Excellent results
 
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brucelinc

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Dyno results are interesting but I prefer this test.
Screenshot_2019-04-04-20-34-15~2.png
 

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I'm with bruce :)
 

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Finally the stars aligned and Bradenton Motorsports Park had a track event last night during Florida’s first cold front of the season. 65 and dry for track conditions.

Well this commanded excellent performance from my car. Definitely the fastest I’ve ever felt the car run. I used ice to initially cool the IC water down, then used the chiller to maintain 32 to 35 degrees while the engine warmed up in the staging lanes. And for the guys that think I’m dropping water on the track I have a solenoid that shuts off the cabin evaporator.

First pass was a 11.05@130. Car was doing awesome but I was a little lazy in the launch.
Second and third passes were it. Ran a 10.995@132 and the last pass was a 10.876@133. This was the first time the car had ever made power in 4th gear. I think this is related to keeping the IAT2 temps below 120 degrees. The highest was 114 with the ambient sensor reading 71 degrees.

I just wished I could have 60 footed a bit better I know it has a 10.60 or 10.70 with some more driver modifications.
557BEB03-3F7F-47AA-B515-9E76975A3C8F.jpeg
Nice time mate, congrats.
 
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Stymee

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I’m now convinced if I were to do just the ice tank, in my area of the U.S. a Roush kit would run tens and w/ a Roush warranty can too.

Can’t wait to see the P2
 

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Finally the stars aligned and Bradenton Motorsports Park had a track event last night during Florida’s first cold front of the season. 65 and dry for track conditions.

Well this commanded excellent performance from my car. Definitely the fastest I’ve ever felt the car run. I used ice to initially cool the IC water down, then used the chiller to maintain 32 to 35 degrees while the engine warmed up in the staging lanes. And for the guys that think I’m dropping water on the track I have a solenoid that shuts off the cabin evaporator.

First pass was a 11.05@130. Car was doing awesome but I was a little lazy in the launch.
Second and third passes were it. Ran a 10.995@132 and the last pass was a 10.876@133. This was the first time the car had ever made power in 4th gear. I think this is related to keeping the IAT2 temps below 120 degrees. The highest was 114 with the ambient sensor reading 71 degrees.

I just wished I could have 60 footed a bit better I know it has a 10.60 or 10.70 with some more driver modifications.
557BEB03-3F7F-47AA-B515-9E76975A3C8F.jpeg
I think you might be the first 18+ to run 10’s with A manual on the Roush tune.

btw, Roush’s 10.86 was run in Michigan last year in Nov. probably in the 40’s or 50’s (edit:it was nov. 7th 40 degree with a da of -612 according to dragt8me da calculator) So good time. Probably takes an ice tank to replicate Michigan in November.
 
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Just remember that’s dynoed in standard correction, if it’s a 6sp your more like 580rw which is exactly what the kits rated

Excellent results
Yeah, still happy with it for now... once the warranty runs out I'll turn it up
 
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I think you might be the first 18+ to run 10’s with A manual on the Roush tune.

btw, Roush’s 10.86 was run in Michigan last year in Nov. probably in the 40’s or 50’s (edit:it was nov. 7th 40 degree with a da of -612 according to dragt8me da calculator) So good time. Probably takes an ice tank to replicate Michigan in November.
He also has a killer chiller that he made himself, pretty smart guy
 

Toydoctor

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did he keep the heat exchanger with the chiller?

I dropped the roush h/e. I was going to experiment with valving to attempt at retaining it, but I decided it was too complicated. I just run the a/c all the time unless I race. The car should shut the compressor under wot, but I haven’t verified this.

When I’m cruising around town or on the highway the water temp will stay at 55 degrees. This is well below ambient Florida weather so the h/e would actually warm the water back up if still a part of the system.

My car is not my daily, it’s just weekend, cruising car. With this in mind I still wouldn’t recommend a chiller. I don’t think ford installed a high enough volume compressor or a large enough condenser in a mustang. A high volume compressor is a must if you plan to run essentially a dual a/c system like a large SUVs have. As result my cabin a/c suffers on a 95 degree day in stop and go traffic. I don’t care what killer chiller claims, this will happen!

I still think the best and only mod you need is some sort of ice tank to take control of I/C water temps. VMP or someone else needs to build a bolt in plug and play tank for a s550 chassis other than the spare tire tanks.
Overkill in my opinion.
 
 
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