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Ques. on mods

Gearhead11

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Hi, I'm new here, but have been a 1/4 mile racer since 1966. It has been suggested to me that I should get long tube headers, cold air induction by Steeda, a super computer tune-up, & I'd like to get a bolt on set of "whisper quiet" see through stainless muffs. that will work with my stock pipes. This is an investment grade car and CANNOT be chopped or butchered or it bring high money by the big buyers @ Mecum when the time comes.

This car someday will be auctioned off by Mecum Muscle Car Auctions after I die. I also do NOT want to void my 3 yr. fac. war. I have been told that if the cats are tuned out it voids the war. Can you help me understand this. My last car ran 11.90's @ 119 MPH through QUIET see through muffs. and I only had to add racing fuel & put on the slicks.

Can someone shed some light on HOW & when to set the line lock when you're @ the track to coincide with the track tree. I live 20 minutes from Palm Bch. Intl. Raceway in W. Palm Bch.

All comments are welcome along with any other info about my new toy.

One question: I had a 1988 Mustang 5.0 LX for a while. However, I never see any of those Stangs. Is there a particular reason for not including them?

Thanks all.;)
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Voodooo

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Hi, I'm new here, but have been a 1/4 mile racer since 1966. It has been suggested to me that I should get long tube headers, cold air induction by Steeda, a super computer tune-up, & I'd like to get a bolt on set of "whisper quiet" see through stainless muffs. that will work with my stock pipes. This is an investment grade car and CANNOT be chopped or butchered or it bring high money by the big buyers @ Mecum when the time comes.

This car someday will be auctioned off by Mecum Muscle Car Auctions after I die. I also do NOT want to void my 3 yr. fac. war. I have been told that if the cats are tuned out it voids the war. Can you help me understand this. My last car ran 11.90's @ 119 MPH through QUIET see through muffs. and I only had to add racing fuel & put on the slicks.

Can someone shed some light on HOW & when to set the line lock when you're @ the track to coincide with the track tree. I live 20 minutes from Palm Bch. Intl. Raceway in W. Palm Bch.

All comments are welcome along with any other info about my new toy.

One question: I had a 1988 Mustang 5.0 LX for a while. However, I never see any of those Stangs. Is there a particular reason for not including them?

Thanks all.;)
Pretty much doing anything will void the warranty. These cars are built pretty good and honestly so many of them are out there that they won't hold a lot of value. I have a 2016 GT350 and I'm going to mod it and I'm not concerned about the warranty but that's just me. If your car was mine, I'd do the long tubes and exhaust, cold air intake, a tune and stop there unless you have the need for speed. If you want more power id add a Whipple supercharger. If you plan to drag race it id do some rear suspension upgrades such as steeda or BMR toe links, maybe even vertical links, rear lower control arm bearings and IRS cradle bushings or lock out kit along with the differential bushings. I wouldn't do the aluminum bushings but the urethane or delron would be perfect for a street strip or road track car. I also didn't notice your trans, but. Mgw shifter if you have a 6 speed and I'd also remove the assist clutch spring under the dash. I'm not familiar with the mufflers you mentioned. As far as the fox body mustangs. I have a 1992 LX that I bought new and it now has a 401 svo 4 bolt main block bored to 4.125 with a billet Bryant crank 3.75 stroke and Oliver rods and Ross 13.5:1 Pistons. Running Yates heads. My best times are 8.37 in 1/4 mile running a Jericho DR4 4 speed and 4.56 gear. I love the old fox body's light and fast. Also concerning the resale value, just as the fox body mustangs are now, I think the late model mustangs will be the same. No much value. Unless it's a limited production like the Cobras, boss, shelby, etc. I'd say do your mods and live happy.
Also. Doing what you mentioned will not cut the car up. And as long as you keep the original parts you can also put it back to original.
 

beefcake

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you don't really "void" a warranty, you can have a covered repair denied if they fell a modification you did the vehicle caused the issue.

that said, if your really worried about it, you have some alternatives, cat back, non tuned cai, pedal max

things that don't change any ecm parameters.

that said, getting the most out of any car, headers, tune, etc.. will really get you the most

as far as the line lock, the line lock is used in the burnout box with sticky tires

if your on stock tires

DRIVE AROUND THE WATER, YOU DON'T NEED A BURNOUT

biggest mistake guys make, drive around the water, and just hit the throttle good once to clean off the tires.

oem tires do not hold heat like a slick does, driving through the water will just drag more water down the track

let me know if we can help with anything
 

krahooligan

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I think your thinking of launch control maybe?
line lock is useless as beef stated.
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