"Performance" Coolant NeedeD?

[Geotoxic]

I was at Fontana Autoclub Speedway this past Saturday. It was 102 F. My car overheated and cylinder head temps hit 270+ every time I hit 135 mph.

Upper Radiator hose broke off (buying Mishimoto one) and my car puked coolant all over.

Do you guys run the standard ford orange coolant or do you guys run something like the Mishimoto Performance full synthetic coolant?

I'm using the standard Procharger tune @ 8 psi. No other engine mods.

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[sigintel]

245 is time to end the session.
250 is bad.
270+ sounds like head gaskets weeping, bad water pump, intercooler issue, tune, coolant leak. Hoping you are ok, but thats up there.
PP/GT350 rad + Reische 170 tstat is minimum you need to road course in 90F ambient.

Uhhh “...everytime”? How many times did this happen?

Keep in mind the cylinder temps are 1300+ peak and briefly cooled by 100F intake air.
Oil is sprayed on underside of pistons (250-300F?).
Oil is smoking/degrading rapidly 260-270.
Oil at 300 is burnt/trashed.

If your heads really hit 270+, change your oil and send a sample off. Look for a greyish hue to the oil almost like liquid aluminum.

Edit: you need to change the water pump in case impeller separated from shaft.
Check intercooler for blockage/ leaks.
Change tstat in case bad.
I tracked a Whippled 2015 for 2 seasons, you need to make cooling mods to track in 90F weather at nearly 2x HP (2x waste heat) vs stock design.

 

[Kona 18]

VP Racing has 2 racing coolants you can look into, one has no glycol so it will have zero freeze protection, the other does have it, so it will have some freeze protection(70/30 mix).

It's called VP Stay Frosty

 

[sigintel]

Strongly recommend addressing air flow across radiator instead of changing coolant. I ran *55/45 DI(deionized water)/motorcraft orange.
Roughly *245-250 ( boil protection before pressure correction). Max 235-242 on track with all cooling mods.
*edits: checked old notes

You MUST check the coolant temperature/pressure tables to be sure you understand the risk of higher water content:
Generally you will DOUBLE the coolant system operating pressure going to straight DI. The cooling system including head gasket, pressure release, hoses, fittings, etc must be made capable. Your max allowable head temp straight water will be 215-230 instead of 260.
The lower temperature flash point (coolant flashing to steam and thus having lower density for removing heat) is critical.

If you are FI, turbo/SC, you dont need anymore pressure lifting the heads up then you already have.

If you understand that stock 50/50 Orange is flashing at 265, and you say you saw 270... this would mean you effectively vapor locked the cooling system in the heads and they likely rapidly exceeded 300++. 350++ if you stayed WOT another 20 sec like that.
So if you open the oil fill cap on the head and see burnt coked oil, you likely were well above 300.
Greyish hue in oil would be cylinder wall and bearing margin.

If you blew up the stock rad hose from over pressure, you can guess over 50psi and look up the temperature to figure out generally how hot the heads got. Youll prolly find way past 270....

 

[Jay-rod427]

270+ has more than likely damaged something internal... At those temps the cylinder head deck likely warped, blew out gasket, cracked valves, etc. Like sigintel said something is not working right and different coolant is not the answer.

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Strongly recommend addressing air flow across radiator instead of changing coolant. I ran 60/40 DI(deionized water)/motorcraft orange.
Roughly 255-260 boil protection before pressure correction. Max 235-242 on track with all cooling mods.
You MUST check the coolant temperature/pressure tables to be sure you understand the risk of higher water content:
Generally you will DOUBLE the coolant system operating pressure going to straight DI. The cooling system including head gasket, pressure release, hoses, fittings, etc must be made capable. Your max allowable head temp straight water will be 215-230 instead of 260.
The lower temperature flash point (coolant flashing to steam and thus having lower density for removing heat) is critical.

If you are FI, turbo/SC, you dont need anymore pressure lifting the heads up then you already have.

If you understand that stock 50/50 Orange is flashing at 265, and you say you saw 270... this would mean you effectively vapor locked the cooling system in the heads and they likely rapidly exceeded 300++. 350++ if you stayed WOT another 20 sec like that.
So if you open the oil fill cap on the head and see burnt coked oil, you likely were well above 300.
Greyish hue in oil would be cylinder wall and bearing margin.

If you blew up the stock rad hose from over pressure, you can guess over 50psi and look up the temperature to figure out generally how hot the heads got. Youll prolly find way past 270....

What are nominal radiator hose pressures?

Edit: Also to OP, you have some serious nads staying on the track after your CHTs are over 250 lol
Edit 2: Hell, even over 235 is nuts to me...something is definitely not working cooling wise like the two before me said.

 

[Geotoxic]

I guess non PP GT with FI can't handle the heat at the track. I was only on WOT for seconds when it hit 270 and engine cut power. I pulled off the track and shut off the car.


Waited a few min and turned it on to move off the track and saw cht rise at idle so I out it in neutral, turned it off and pushed it off the track (no tow hook).

Can the non PP GT with no FI handle heat issues and the track ? It seems whenever I go 60-80% I am well under 200 CHT. It wasn't until I went WOT did CHT go crazy.

 

[Jay-rod427]

100 degrees here. Im making twice the boost you are. Idles all day with ac on at 190-200 chat. Blast it to 140+ and cht might hit 215. Something is wrong with your car and needs attention.

 

[sigintel]

Can the non PP GT with no FI handle heat issues and the track ?

No. My 2015 WAS BRIEFLY non PP and both brakes and rad were insufficient w Whipple in West Texas touring. No way continuous track use.

Stock tstat w PP/GT350 rad was insufficient above 60 F ambient w Whipple on track.
You MUST have Reische 170 + PP/GT350 rad as a minimum to road course.
Next, you MUST drop boost to let ECU advance timing to max advance. This increases efficiency and decreases waste heat (which is your limitation on HP output).
I substantially modded my entire front body and rear hood venting over 2 seasons of testing limits.
Also ran GT350 oil pump and pan.

What are nominal radiator hose pressures?

Radiator cap or owners manual for max pressure info.
Check coolant temperature/pressure tables.
https://www.google.com/search?q=coo...able&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

Check motorcraft orange chemistry base EG or PG. ( other differences such as anti corrosion system/additives have little effect on temp/pressure data).

This tells you max allowable hot spot in the head

 

[SAY WHAT]

I don't mean to high jack this thread but a few of you here seem to be really knowledgeable in this area. I Plan on going to a track event in a week. The event is set up so that every one takes turns and does one lap and there is a cool down period for the car for about 10-15 mins before its my turn again.
The last time I was at this event i was tuned with no cooling mods in 50F.
My car is now tuned with a 18 manifold not much else done.
The only cooling mods done are a 170 T stat and is currently on 100% water with vp racing cool down additive.
Currently in daily driving I see my coolant temps hover around 180-185 and CHT around 187-193. This is in 98F+ weather.
My concern is if i start pushing the car very hard I could blow past the water boiling point. Not sure what the boiling point is because I do not know what pressure the coolant is under.

So the TLDR is should I add some antifreeze to increase boiling point and during my cool down period should i have the hood open with the car on or off so it can cycle the coolant?

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