Exactly. 1234x here on my gen2. Ran them with stock gt phasers and gt350 phasers to 9200, no issues. Get em from Beef!no need to do lock outs they are a drop in spring.
in stock
PAC Racing Springs RPM Series Drop In Ovate Wire Beehive (Gen 1 & 2 Ford Coyote) PAC-1234X-16
https://www.beefcakeracing.com/pac-1234x-16/
Stock gen 2/3 springs are all ya need.
They could be rebranded Ford springs. Who knows. Someone would need to measure the all dimensions and closed/open pressures compared to stock.Brenspeed was insisting the same for my build they put the gen 2 not the pacs. There’s no difference or what ?
The boss springs are the stock gen2 springs. Stock gen2 is 67lbs on the seat closed, pac1234x is 92lbs on the seat closed. That's both installed at 1.57in.They could be rebranded Ford springs. Who knows. Someone would need to measure the all dimensions and closed/open pressures compared to stock.
Good info. I was familiar with the Gen 2 and Boss using the same spring. I like the proven specs you have on the 1234x. However, I haven’t heard of springs actually NEEDED on a Gen2/3 blower car until upwards of 1200+whp/8500+rpm. Turbo setups most definitely though after 850whp/7000rpm.The boss springs are the stock gen2 springs. Stock gen2 is 67lbs on the seat closed, pac1234x is 92lbs on the seat closed. That's both installed at 1.57in.
I recommend the 1234x with 15psi from a blower if you plan to run any real rpm.
FR says that the gen2 spring is good to 8000rpm. Deduct seat pressure accordingly for manifold and exhaust pressure, and you have less valve control than 8000rpm.Good info. I was familiar with the Gen 2 and Boss using the same spring. I like the proven specs you have on the 1234x. However, I haven’t heard of springs actually NEEDED on a Gen2/3 blower car until upwards of 1200+whp/8500+rpm. Turbo setups most definitely though after 850whp/7000rpm.
Absolutely, but there’s a lot of parts thrown into these cars/hobby that are never actually needed and don’t do a damn thing.FR says that the gen2 spring is good to 8000rpm. Deduct seat pressure accordingly for manifold and exhaust pressure, and you have less valve control than 8000rpm.
You can make 1000hp on a completely stock motor, but there are tradeoffs. Get my drift?
Sure, but for the OPs application I don't think valvesprings are a part of that group.Absolutely, but there’s a lot of parts thrown into these cars/hobby that are never actually needed and don’t do a damn thing.
Idk. A 12-15psi 700-800whp setup isn’t anything out of the ordinary. Thousands out there like this and their OEM springs hold up just fine.Sure, but for the OPs application I don't think valvesprings are a part of that group.
Maybe the car would be quicker with a set of 1234x..... We have different approaches and that's what makes the world go round!Idk. A 12-15psi 700-800whp setup isn’t anything out of the ordinary. Thousands out there like this and their OEM springs hold up just fine.
My original OEM springs are probably 7.5 years old with 26K miles on them. Hitting 8000-8100rpm shifts over 4 years at 14-18psi with the data saying they are handling it perfectly.