Opinions on drive train slack

[HoosierDaddy]

I took the car to the dealer because of a clunk in the drive train as slack is taken in and out.

Dealer measured play at each point and says all are within spec. Members here say these cars do that, but that's just based on my written description. If its normal, I have no problem with it. But I don't want to let a real problem fester. So, I made this video showing the total amount of play and the sound I call a clunk.

Car has a Torsen 3.73 diff from the factory. Video is car on stands in first gear with the driver side rear tire immobilized by pressure from below with a floor jack, while trying to rotate the passenger rear wheel.

My two questions are: (1) is that much angular motion excessive, and (2) is the sound normal.

One reason I am asking is the dealer originally wanted me to remove my MGW shifter and re-install the factory one before they would even look at it. So I would like to confirm all okay before making other mods that could be incorrectly blamed for problems.

Free-play video:



To complicate things a bit, I found that the wheel bearing at that corner seems bad after making the above video of the free-play. Bearing on other side is fine.

Update: @NoVaGT says the below could be just the rotor wobbling and I should check again with the wheel back on.

POSSIBLE Bad bearing video:

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[jacknifetoaswan]

The videos aren't loading for me, but I can confirm that my 2016 GT/PP has a lot of driveline slack. If I slow down to approach a speed bump, then push in the clutch, go up the speed bump, and need to release the clutch to get a little momentum to crest it, the driveline is all clack clack clack. I took mine to the dealer after about 10k miles with a complaint about driveline noise, and they initially replaced the driveshaft, which did little to nothing. After that, they said everything was in spec, and there was nothing more that they were authorized to do.

I will say that I noticed a significant improvement after installing the Steeda IRS Subframe alignment and support kit. The whole rear of the car feels and sounds different.

JR

 

[Guarded15]

I get a thud when engaging first right after depressing the clutch (transmission is still spinning). I've heard it in other manual cars but this one is more pronounced. I'm not worried about it.

I would have some extremely harsh and impolite words for a dealer giving me grief over a shifter.

I think at the end of the day it's a Ford and it would be silly to expect them to hold the tolerances other manufactures do. They should at the price they are charging but they can't and wont.

 

[Burkey]

The amount of rotation shown in the first video is completely normal, possibly better than some in fact.
I’d disregard the second video entirely until that wheel is bolted back on. 100%

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Thanks to all for confirming!

 

[Coyote Red]

At 50,000 miles in my base 16 GT 6R80, is this just manual ponies? I did the cradle lockouts w/Steeda bushings and once I found a shop competent enough to understand the install the car is great except for lag in paddle shifting I compensated for with "shift to throttle timing thru practice.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

At 50,000 miles in my base 16 GT 6R80, is this just manual ponies? I did the cradle lockouts w/Steeda bushings and once I found a shop competent enough to understand the install the car is great except for lag in paddle shifting I compensated for with "shift to throttle timing thru practice.

Yes, it seems to be. The MT-82 is just a sloppy transmission, especially compared to the TR-3650 that it replaced (I'd kill for a TR-6060), and the Torsen has various noises and behavior associated with it. The driveshaft seems to have its own issues. Eventually, I'll replace my driveshaft with an aluminum one-piece unit, but the transmission and the Torsen will continue making noise.

JR

 

[BmacIL]

It has a lot, yes. I wish it didn't.

I'd have laughed in dealer service tech's face if he suggested to remove the shifter. Those things are completely unrelated.

 

[Coyote Red]

I too am about to purchase a 1 piece unit for my pony. Deciding on a Shaftmasters or DSS is the question. Any opinions are welcome, Thanks.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I did the cradle lockouts w/Steeda bushings

LoL. That's why my car was on the stands. I had just installed BMR CB005 (w/Steeda sleeves).

 

[Jetnoise]

Maybe video 1 shows the Torsen diff end play. Can't see if your drive shaft is moving...is it?
There are a number of potential joints from the trans tail shaft to the lug nuts
Let me see if I can count. 3 in the driveshaft and 4 in the axle shafts and then there is the Torsen run out as well. So 8 places to investigate?
Video 2 movement isn't in the same direction and I don't think it should be considered as part of the equation. Not saying there isn't or is a concern with it. Just not part of the axle turning run out.
Based on looking at the degree of movement in the lug nuts in video one ...and if the drive shaft is moving....or not....
The Torsen is a new animal to me. Maybe it's within spec ... or not ...or your half shafts joints are a little loosie...which seems to be a reported weak link
Been dropping the clutch at 6k?

 

[VinnAY]

Mine was a lot better as noted once above with Steeda parts installed...IRS supports, braces, diff bushings. But still was an intrusive noise that just sounds bad. Everyone is right, there has to be some lash there, but the tolerances are pretty broad and then you stack those tolerances from the Tranny, the driveshaft, the diff, and you get a pretty noisy driveline.

 

[69mach1-395]

Every gear pair will have backlash. OP might even see different amounts of play depending what gear the trans is in. Autos may be cushioned due to the tc and fluid involved. U-joints and shifter should not add much at all.

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