No audio after ACM swap

[rambunctious]

If I just feed power to that pin to tell the DSP to get moving, I also do feed power towards the ACM pin 7. Do you think it's likely I break or fry any circuits that way?
Also, would you just remove that #7 pin on c240A and relocate it to #18 on c240B hoping all is working thereafter or better put in an additional terminal at C240B #18 and connect it to the original circuit C240A #7? <-- to me, that would be the same as if I just put the power wire directly to the DSP.

Thanks for staying with me, I hope my text is not all too confusing.

actually your text is very clear and helpful for those of us familiar with the wiring.

Remember that the enable voltage is 6V, and not 12V. I might suggest jumping the #18 to #7. my question, is #18 no longer populated for the 2017?
Ramb

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[buzz-dee]

Well, yesterday I went to the local elctronics store and grabbed a constant voltage regulator. I soldered 3 wires to it and connected it to constant +12V and GND. It gave me an output of exactly +5V which I assumed would be sufficient for my testing.

I hooked up the output wire straight to the pin #1 of the brown connector (C2385C) going into the DSP/AMP.
A first quick test did not work and I had the feeling that the wires are not making solid contact to the terminals inside the connector. So I spent quite some time in the drivers footwell to work that out.

On my 2nd try, when I switched on the radio, the music started playing. All speakers were fully funcional.
All stations were playing, station names showing up, digitial radio was crispy clear!

I removed the voltage regulator again cuz I wouldn't wanna have those wires flying around by my feet, possibly making contact to any bar metal points down there.

Now I have to go back and rip out all the dash trim one more time to move that single yet important terminal from one connector over to the other.

I would like to ask for a little help one last time.
I tried do remove one terminal at the DSP connector yesterday without success. No matter what I tried, it din't move at all.
I know the terminals behind the ACM are slightly different. Can anybody tell a trick how to unlock those pins?
If I can't get it out I would have to buy new terminals and then cut/splice/solder wires behind the dash <--- if possible I'd love to get around that.

At this point big thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction.


[MENTION=16062]rambunctious[/MENTION] [MENTION=26415]solodogg[/MENTION] [MENTION=20499]mumbles[/MENTION] [MENTION=20467]jsn1[/MENTION]:
If anyone of you is coming to Germany at some point, drop me a line! I'd be more than glad to buy you some beers :cheers:

 

[rambunctious]

I would like to ask for a little help one last time.
I tried do remove one terminal at the DSP connector yesterday without success. No matter what I tried, it din't move at all.
I know the terminals behind the ACM are slightly different. Can anybody tell a trick how to unlock those pins?
If I can't get it out I would have to buy new terminals and then cut/splice/solder wires behind the dash <--- if possible I'd love to get around that.

At this point big thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction.


[MENTION=16062]rambunctious[/MENTION] [MENTION=26415]solodogg[/MENTION] [MENTION=20499]mumbles[/MENTION] [MENTION=20467]jsn1[/MENTION]:
If anyone of you is coming to Germany at some point, drop me a line! I'd be more than glad to buy you some beers :cheers:

i'll come to Germany if you take me for a a ride on the Ring!
there is a pin removal tool that slides over the wire/terminal at the DPS to remove them. you may look into this before taking the dash apart ( A pain, I know) or before having to cut wires and splice a new connector. I dont have the removal tool part number but if I find it, I will pass this on. others may have this on the forum.
-Ramb

 

[rambunctious]

here is an example, but they vary in size depending on socket/pin size. dont order this necessarily, but look into the correct size first.
-Ramb
https://www.alliedelec.com/jonard-a...MIwvPfs4KE1gIVxlcNCh0LJguXEAQYASABEgK2TPD_BwE

 

[djcwardog]

I hate to volunteer other members, but dcjwardog has a 17 model and swapped his 400a ACM for a 401a ACM. He might be able to tell you what pin the audio enable is, assuming it is different.

I didn't have to swap any pins over at all - truly a plug and play swap-out of the two head units for me. Also, my HD radio head unit - what I swapped in - came out of a 2016 car.

 

[buzz-dee]

I didn't have to swap any pins over at all - truly a plug and play swap-out of the two head units for me. Also, my HD radio head unit - what I swapped in - came out of a 2016 car.

That makes sense to me now.

You have a 2017 Mustang. Your harness has two independent "audio enable" wires running from the ACM towards the DSP, one on pin #18 in the c240b connector (that pin is empty in my 2015MY harness) and the other on pin #7 in the c240a (that's the one my car has too) connector.
Basically it doesn't matter what ACM you drop in. If it's from a MY2017 it will use the first circuit, 2016 or earlier ACM's will use the second one.

 

[solodogg]

I would like to ask for a little help one last time.
I tried do remove one terminal at the DSP connector yesterday without success. No matter what I tried, it din't move at all.
I know the terminals behind the ACM are slightly different. Can anybody tell a trick how to unlock those pins?
If I can't get it out I would have to buy new terminals and then cut/splice/solder wires behind the dash <--- if possible I'd love to get around that.

Small jewlers precision flat head screwdriver above the female end of the connector, there is a small plastic tab that locks these into place. Slide the screw driver between the connector and the metal terminal, wiggle the wire back and forth until it comes unlocked and slides out of the connector.

Glad you were able to figure out that it's just a simple terminal connection change that needs to be made

 

[buzz-dee]

Small jewlers precision flat head screwdriver above the female end of the connector, there is a small plastic tab that locks these into place. Slide the screw driver between the connector and the metal terminal, wiggle the wire back and forth until it comes unlocked and slides out of the connector.

Glad you were able to figure out that it's just a simple terminal connection change that needs to be made

I'll give it a try. Idk when I will have the time to look into that. It might take me a few days. If it doesn't work out for me, I might take the car to the local audio shop and seek some help there.
Certainly will keep you posted.


Thanks again for all your input.

 

[buzz-dee]

Two days ago, I dug into my dashboard again. I tried to release the terminal out of the connector really hard, to no avail!:frusty:
Better yet, I broke off the tip of my tool inside the connector while working in there:eyebulge:
It took me the better part of the afternoon to partly disassemble the connector and get the stuck piece out using a pair of very small needle nose pliers.

After that, I changed my plan and gave up on releasing the terminal. I taped into the existing circuit and ran a new wire with terminal over to the adjacent connector.
After plugging everything back together and putting all screws and trim panels in place again I fired it up.....and there is music now!
All the speakers are working, shaker is shaking and I'm a happy guy !

The only downside so far is:

All the sounds related to the rear park assist system as well as cross traffic alerts are nearly impossible to hear anymore. They seem to be coming from the two speakers right behind the rear seats only.
Any ideas on that?

Thanks a lot to all of you!

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