New clutch, do I need new throwout bearing?

Bbarfoot14

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I’m getting a Mccloud rst twin disk with aluminum flywheel as my stock clutch went out on me. Do I need to order the Mccloud throw out bearing or a new ford one to replace as I do the clutch? I’m just not sure if it’s an item you’d want to replace or if you can use the current one.

 

Strokerswild

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Generally speaking, anytime I have something torn down to the point of being able to see the clutch, the TOB gets replaced....

One of those "while you're in there" things.
 

mindo389

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One of those "while you're in there" things.
Exactly: do the job right the first time. In the industrial world: Plan your work. Work your plan.
 
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Bbarfoot14

Bbarfoot14

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Exactly: do the job right the first time. In the industrial world: Plan your work. Work your plan.
Thanks guys, and I’m seeing a replacement ford one is the way to go not Mccloud or aftermarket? As well, I assume I’ll need to bench bleed the new one and can’t do it on the car?
Thanks
 

mindo389

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In regards to the parts question, I'd go with the same throw out bearing as the clutch manufacturer. They are designed and tested to work best with each other.
Also, take the time to clean up the clutch housing, look for small cracks around the bolt holes and other areas. Use a tap to chase the threads on the housing and engine block. Small details ensure a successful project.
 


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I would always recommend a new slave/throwout bearing, pilot bearing, braided clutch line if you don't have one when doing a new clutch swap. The last thing you want to do is skip one of those things put new clutch in and after time something fails then you are doing double the work. Feel free to message me with any other questions
 

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I’m getting a Mccloud rst twin disk with aluminum flywheel as my stock clutch went out on me. Do I need to order the Mccloud throw out bearing or a new ford one to replace as I do the clutch? I’m just not sure if it’s an item you’d want to replace or if you can use the current one.
You can't go wrong with either TOB. We sell both here at www.lethalperformance.com!
 

sk47

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Hello; I agree with the practice to replace most if not all internal parts when doing clutch work. Some depends on who does the work. I use to do clutch work myself and have made judgment calls on replacing some parts. If you are hiring out the job then replace with new parts.

Some additional thoughts. Much will depend on why you need a new clutch. I have had factory clutches last for over 150,000 miles. The one in my current car has over 130,000 miles on it. There are ways to increase the life of a clutch.
Of course if the car is street raced or you do a lot of burnouts short clutch life is part of the deal. I am thinking of how to avoid clutch wear in normal driving.

When I come to a stop at lights or for any time I will sit for more than a few seconds, I put the trans in neutral and let the clutch all the way out. This does one or two things. For sure will be good for the throw out bearing (TOB). The spinning parts will not be riding on the TOB. The other possible thing is this will avoid clutch wear with the car in gear and the clutch pedal pushed in. Some folks let the clutch be lightly engaged when sitting without realising it. This will wear out a clutch early and will make things hot.
Another thing I do is to take my foot all the way off the clutch pedal when driving. I do not let my foot rest on the clutch pedal unless I am in the process of shifting thru the gears. With the hydraulic master and slave cylinders it is hard to feel their action.
I do not use the clutch to hold a vehicle on a hill. I have seen this. Lightly engaging the clutch waiting for a light or some such. This will heat up and wear out a clutch.

Last thing is to have the hydraulic fluid in these clutch systems changed every few years. It is brake fluid in the systems I am familiar with. I try to do this at least every two or three years.

Good luck
 
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Bbarfoot14

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Bbarfoot14

Bbarfoot14

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I would always recommend a new slave/throwout bearing, pilot bearing, braided clutch line if you don't have one when doing a new clutch swap. The last thing you want to do is skip one of those things put new clutch in and after time something fails then you are doing double the work. Feel free to message me with any other questions
Would you as well recommend the accompanying Mccloud slave cylinder or a Ford oe replacement?
 

OnThree

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Would you as well recommend the accompanying Mccloud slave cylinder or a Ford oe replacement?
Not trying to scare you but when I swapped a RST in on my 15, I put a new Ford OEM TOB and it went out after like 15k miles. Just food for thought, no idea if the McLeod TOB is any better but the Ford one was junk in my experience.
 

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Would you as well recommend the accompanying Mccloud slave cylinder or a Ford oe replacement?
Not trying to scare you but when I swapped a RST in on my 15, I put a new Ford OEM TOB and it went out after like 15k miles. Just food for thought, no idea if the McLeod TOB is any better but the Ford one was junk in my experience.
95% of the time most people go with a new Ford OEM unit and we have seen very very few issues if any at all.
 

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Heard it both ways, replace no matter what and never change till there's a problem. My car has 12k miles and I getting the trans repaired. While it's out I'm going to take care of the high rpm lockout and install a mantic cerametalic clutch. I do not plan in replacing the tob, that thing if the clutch wasn't junk in these cars would stay in for 70+k miles easily. If I was at 30k or above I would replace it but 12k I see no reason to
 

 
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