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New Brakes break it?

Prodigal

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Is there a recommended process to break in new rotors and pads?
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SheepDog

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Usually your new pads will come with break in instructions, however my Kenny Brown 2 Piece rotors also came with their own, and very elaborate break in proceedures.
 

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was there a break in process for the new stock brakes I didn't know about lol
 

SheepDog

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You do want to follow a basic break-in, or bedding proceedure whenever installing new pads, or buing a new car. Either on machined or new rotors. If you are too easy on them initially, it can cause glazing which will prevent the pad material from mating with the rotor surface. Generally, 4-5 medium pressure decelerations from 45-5MPH, followed by 2-3 hard decelerations from 60-5MPH. You don't want to come to a complete stop, as the super hot pads can warp the rotor if sitting on one spot for too long. After you do your decelerations, you want to drive with as little brake interaction as possible, to allow the rotors to cool down for 10 minutes or so.
 
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SheepDog

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I wonder if that's necessary when swapping pads?
Depends on the pads. If you are swapping from say G-loc R12's to G-loc GS-1s, then the material is very similar. If you are swapping from a semi-metallic race pad, to a ceramic street pad of different brands (Something G-loc doesn't even recommend) then you are supposed to machine them, or at least hit them with some 80 grit sand paper

https://www.g-locbrakes.com/faqwd/how-do-i-clean-or-resurface-my-used-discsrotors/
https://www.g-locbrakes.com/faq_category/bedding-procedureproper-maintenance/
 

gone_n_60

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Depends on the pads. If you are swapping from say G-loc R12's to G-loc GS-1s, then the material is very similar. If you are swapping from a semi-metallic race pad, to a ceramic street pad of different brands (Something G-loc doesn't even recommend) then you are supposed to machine them, or at least hit them with some 80 grit sand paper

https://www.g-locbrakes.com/faqwd/how-do-i-clean-or-resurface-my-used-discsrotors/
https://www.g-locbrakes.com/faq_category/bedding-procedureproper-maintenance/
I've been swapping between track metal's to street Ceramics for while now. Never did anything other that a little driving to bed them. So far so good.
 

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I actually have extensive experience with this. Over the last two years I’ve had nothing but issues with race brakes on a different car. I’ve had dozens of conversations with pad suppliers, rotor manufacturers’, other racers, and spent more time researching brakes than any one person should.

With OEM brakes on a new car, no you don’t have to bed them. That procedure is more or less handled at the factory.

When you change street pads and or rotors, you should bed them per the instructions included with the pads and rotors.

If you have a M1, take a look at the supplement there is a procedure for track bedding. (I assume but don’t know, if the GT350/500 have a similar procedure.)

Bedding race specific compounds is a whole other animal and you should follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. (Some will pre bed your pads, but you’ll still need to bed them to the rotor.)

If you don’t bed, they’ll be fine for a while, but eventually you’ll get an uneven build up of deposits and develop chatter, uneven pad wear, and uneven rotor wear, as well as hot spots on the rotors.
 
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KingKona

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Just take it up to 120MPH, then slam on the brakes.

Break-in complete.
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