Negotiating a Factory Order EB

[K-Roll302]

After three years of waiting, I'll be heading to my dealership this week to begin negotiating a 2017 EB. I've never negotiated a factory order, as my current car was a dealer trade and I honestly had a bit of help from my parents. This time, I'd like to handle this more on my own with some help and experience from you lot please. I've a couple questions I'd like answered before I walk in uneducated or uninitiated.

To specify, I'd like to order a 2017 EB base in Grabber Blue with PP and Recaro seats as my only options/packages.

1. I read a previous thread that mentioned dealer holdback, what exactly is that and what does it mean for a dealership and or myself?

2. I've gone to one dealer that said I could get an EB with the options I want at sticker price. Is that good, or could I do better? And if so, is it possible to get closer to, exactly at, or under invoice? And how would I go about doing so? How easy/difficult would that be?

3. On the 2017 pricing guide, I've calculated two numbers for dealer invoice w/holdback and suggested retail (27900 and 29235 respectively). For the former, exactly how much of that number is the holdback?

4. How do I not get screwed on trade in?

5. What's a fair deposit cost, if one is required?

If I've anymore questions I'll post them, thanks!!:cheers:

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[Coconut]

1. From what I understand, the holdback is the difference between factory invoice and what the dealer actually pays. Dealers get specific "discounts" if they sell a certain amount of cars or whatever Ford decides to do to move X amount of cars for that month.

2. You can definitely do better than sticker price. You should be able to get at least X-Plan pricing on a special order, which is a couple hundred more than invoice. Just ask if the dealer accepts X-Plan pricing.

3. Not sure on this myself as I have no idea how to find out what the exact holdback amount is for the dealer/area.

4. Go to KBB and find your trade-in value, then go to Carmax. Between these two numbers you'll get an accurate value on your trade-in. Present whichever number is highest to your dealer and have him beat it or at least match it. To not get "screwed" at the dealership, treat the OTD price, Trade-In price and finance percentage as 3 separate deals. Never roll them together or tell the dealer you can only afford $XXX amount per month on payments. They have a prices paid thread on this forum, read through it to see what type of deals people are getting in your area. As mentioned before, go to KBB and Carmax to get a rough idea on trade-in value. Line up your own financing to see what APR you get approved for, then let the dealerships finance person see what APR they can get. If it's lower, take it, if it's higher or the same, tell them you are already pre-approved for X amount and tell them to beat it or match it if they can't. Dealerships have closed deals with preferred banks for lower APR's than what you can get for by yourself.

5. Here in California, you can special order the 17' Mustang with only a $500 refundable deposit.

I've actually gone through the process to get a quote on special ordering a 17' Ecoboost Premium (manual, redline leather, 18" foundry wheels). MSRP is $31,095 and the dealer accepted X-Plan pricing which would be $32,100 OTD (8.75% sales tax). Not the greatest deal but it's better than paying sticker.

 

[K-Roll302]

1. From what I understand, the holdback is the difference between factory invoice and what the dealer actually pays. Dealers get specific "discounts" if they sell a certain amount of cars or whatever Ford decides to do to move X amount of cars for that month.

2. You can definitely do better than sticker price. You should be able to get at least X-Plan pricing on a special order, which is a couple hundred more than invoice. Just ask if the dealer accepts X-Plan pricing.

3. Not sure on this myself as I have no idea how to find out what the exact holdback amount is for the dealer/area.

4. Go to KBB and find your trade-in value, then go to Carmax. Between these two numbers you'll get an accurate value on your trade-in. Present whichever number is highest to your dealer and have him beat it or at least match it. To not get "screwed" at the dealership, treat the OTD price, Trade-In price and finance percentage as 3 separate deals. Never roll them together or tell the dealer you can only afford $XXX amount per month on payments. They have a prices paid thread on this forum, read through it to see what type of deals people are getting in your area. As mentioned before, go to KBB and Carmax to get a rough idea on trade-in value. Line up your own financing to see what APR you get approved for, then let the dealerships finance person see what APR they can get. If it's lower, take it, if it's higher or the same, tell them you are already pre-approved for X amount and tell them to beat it or match it if they can't. Dealerships have closed deals with preferred banks for lower APR's than what you can get for by yourself.

5. Here in California, you can special order the 17' Mustang with only a $500 refundable deposit.

I've actually gone through the process to get a quote on special ordering a 17' Ecoboost Premium (manual, redline leather, 18" foundry wheels). MSRP is $31,095 and the dealer accepted X-Plan pricing which would be $32,100 OTD (8.75% sales tax). Not the greatest deal but it's better than paying sticker.

How'd you get X-Plan, and what is it?

 

[ElAviator72]

2. You can definitely do better than sticker price. You should be able to get at least X-Plan pricing on a special order, which is a couple hundred more than invoice. Just ask if the dealer accept
5. Here in California, you can special order the 17' Mustang with only a $500 refundable deposit.

On Item 2, if you're a Costco member, I'd also check into the Costco auto program. You have to also use a dealer who's participating in the Costo auto program...

On Item 5, how much of a deposit depends on the dealer. I know of one dealer here in OR that requires no deposit ;) I paid a $500, non-refundable deposit when I ordered my car...they want you to be serious. But the deposit goes into your down payment. Remember that when ordering

 

[K-Roll302]

Is there a chance I can haggle the final price to close to X-Plan if I can't get X-Plan? Is X-Plan something I can just ask for or something?

$500 deposit sounds good and fair to me.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

The dealer I work for special orders 2017 Mustang EB's, V6's, and GT's with just a $500 refundable deposit. Pricing for any WA resident is just $99 over the factory invoice total (which is a little less than X-plan pricing). Very simple and fair deal. I trust most any dealer anywhere in the country would match that with a little bit of work.

As for the trade in, study up. kbb.com, nada.com, etc. Just be sure to look at "trade-in" values, not retail values.

 

[Turd Ferguson]

After three years of waiting, I'll be heading to my dealership this week to begin negotiating a 2017 EB. I've never negotiated a factory order, as my current car was a dealer trade and I honestly had a bit of help from my parents. This time, I'd like to handle this more on my own with some help and experience from you lot please. I've a couple questions I'd like answered before I walk in uneducated or uninitiated.

To specify, I'd like to order a 2017 EB base in Grabber Blue with PP and Recaro seats as my only options/packages.

1. I read a previous thread that mentioned dealer holdback, what exactly is that and what does it mean for a dealership and or myself?

2. I've gone to one dealer that said I could get an EB with the options I want at sticker price. Is that good, or could I do better? And if so, is it possible to get closer to, exactly at, or under invoice? And how would I go about doing so? How easy/difficult would that be?

3. On the 2017 pricing guide, I've calculated two numbers for dealer invoice w/holdback and suggested retail (27900 and 29235 respectively). For the former, exactly how much of that number is the holdback?

4. How do I not get screwed on trade in?

5. What's a fair deposit cost, if one is required?

If I've anymore questions I'll post them, thanks!!:cheers:

When I ordered my Mustang, I solicited offers from several local dealers via email. The best offer was $500 under invoice; however, the others were in that ballpark. NONE were over invoice.

 

[ElAviator72]

How'd you get X-Plan, and what is it?

X-Plan is a group pricing option, offered to members of the Mustang Club of America, or the EAA (which, if it's the EAA I'm familiar with, is the Experimental Aircraft Association). Read the FAQ in the sticky section at the top of this sub-forum (Order|Price|Tracking)

 

[BmacIL]

Dude you live in Southfield. You must be related to someone that can get you A-plan!

 

[K-Roll302]

Dude you live in Southfield. You must be related to someone that can get you A-plan!

Actually, I am related to someone who can get me A-Plan, I completely forgot! I'll be ordering exactly what I want with A-Plan, and it's lower than msrp and invoice I think!

That's a win for me!! I'll be ordering my first Mustang in a couple weeks!!:ford:

 

[v8440]

Check out Koons ford in Baltimore, MD. I'm not going to get into the specifics, but I just bought a '16 gt premium auto car for WAY under invoice 3 days ago. They did me right enough I'm going to start a separate thread about them in a minute.

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