Mustang B & O Skar-ified full speaker swap spoilers (not a waste of $)

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

As a lifelong Mustang and music lover I knew when I got my car. That eventually there was work to be done on the audio system. Like many of us on this forum, I did my research. Watch 10 million YouTube videos. And almost came to the consensus. Conclusion that external amplifiers and better hardware would be the only solution. But unfortunately like many people in forums. I'm stubborn
and hard-headed as well. I decided to take a low risk option. Budget speaker upgrade all around. That even if I didn't have enough juice for what I wanted I would be future proofing for amplification. I took as many pictures as I remembered to take. And I will honestly say that. I am now in the minority that thinks the b and o system is worth saving. Are you going to shatter glass or win any sound competitions? Probably not. But I can hear my music with the windows down at highway speed. And that will be good enough for me.

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[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

To start the speakers used were Skar audio tx series. In all locations with the exceptions of the tweeters and sub woofer.

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

The rest
One pair of tx65c
And ix 400 10 inch sub

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

All in in speakers we were right at 300 after taxes (in FL) this is by no means a tutorial or a professional build . Things were done in a way to be able to go back to stock as much as possible. So hardware was made from sacrificing most of the stock speakers. Using them as mointing rings with oem plugs.

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

After the speakers were cut out and installed in the rings i used the soldering ponts and installed speaker wires

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

The coaxial 6.5 speakers were installed in the deck . And plugged in directly to the oem locations.

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

Next i did the front dash 3.5
Which required some cutting of the mounting surface. I snipped the factory harness and plug off the old unit making it a plug and play proposition.

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

For the doors i went with the 6.5 component instead of the coaxials. The b and woofers in the doors come with a steel baskets making them harder to work with than base dremel is your best friend here.

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

The most labor intensive ones are the 3.5. In the doors. Honestly the location feels like an afterthought. Most guys have the same issue. Magnet comes out too deep into the body. I installed 2 washers in each mounting bolt for each speaker using the factory mounts. I also dremeled the speaker hole ever so slightly for better clearance. I covered the exposed metal with black nail polish.

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

Door completed

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

And last but definitely not least the tweeters.
Which are for the 21 dollars so far the biggest improvement to sound. I did modify my a pillars to do them which i wasnt too excited to do. But they came out alot better than expected

 

[Evolvd]

Decent work there! However you could’ve saved a lot of work by going with 3D printed speaker rings for the front and rear instead of tearing apart the stock units. But, if it works then that’s what matters.

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

Probably. But the biggest reason i kept the stock rings were for the terminals. Hypothetically, the whole system is still plug and Play except for the tweeters and the sub.

 

[Evolvd]

Probably. But the biggest reason i kept the stock rings were for the terminals. Hypothetically, the whole system is still plug and Play except for the tweeters and the sub.

I know it’s too late now but Sounds Good Stereo sells their rings with OEM wire plug adapters. Completely plug and play

 

[9KaThArSiSeeKeR1]

And last but not least the sub woofer.

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