Mustang Active Exhaust not Working??

[Tren__]

I have a 2018 Mustang GT with the active exhaust. I have the Corsa Extreme valved catback and the valves have been working for 10 months with no problems. One day the passenger side valve stopped working. The driver side opens and closes but I get the "Active exhaust not available" message because the passenger side valve does not work.

-I opened the actuator to check the spring placement of the valve and nothing was wrong with the placement.
-I checked fuse #34 with a fuse volt tester and it still was working. (also assumed the driver side would not work if it was blown).

What else could this problem be? Should I order JR3Z-14A411-H and replace that wire?

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[DougS550]

Inspect wiring going to the failed valve. If wires look good disconnect the valve connector and ground the ground wire and jumper the open and then jumper the closed wire. If the valve does not work, your valve is bad. If it does open and closed follow back wires until you find the issue. Good luck

 

[Johnny Rockit]

There was a similar thread last year and the wires at the plug rubbed and grounded out on the body where it bends 90° at the valve.

 

[ORRadtech]

Inspect wiring going to the failed valve. If wires look good disconnect the valve connector and ground the ground wire and jumper the open and then jumper the closed wire. If the valve does not work, your valve is bad. If it does open and closed follow back wires until you find the issue. Good luck

This^^^^^
You've barely begun testing yet.
Parts cannons can get very expensive and fast.

 

[derwin252]

Most likely you wiring are making contact with the frame on the passenger side because of the orientation. Easy fix take a hammer and push the frame back a little to make clearance for the wiring harness. Make sure your wires are still intact.

 

[greasy]

I have a 2018 Mustang GT with the active exhaust. I have the Corsa Extreme valved catback and the valves have been working for 10 months with no problems. One day the passenger side valve stopped working. The driver side opens and closes but I get the "Active exhaust not available" message because the passenger side valve does not work.

-I opened the actuator to check the spring placement of the valve and nothing was wrong with the placement.
-I checked fuse #34 with a fuse volt tester and it still was working. (also assumed the driver side would not work if it was blown).

What else could this problem be? Should I order JR3Z-14A411-H and replace that wire?

Had this on my Mach with the stock catback after I added the Steeda X Pipe. If you don’t have enough play in the system to shift everything back you might need to trim a little bit off of the mid pipe or catback to give yourself enough clearance.

Then you’ll need to address the wiring. I depinned the wires from the connector, straightened them out, isolated them from each other, and then double heat shrinked each wire. You’ll be good to go after that.

 

[Tren__]

Inspect wiring going to the failed valve. If wires look good disconnect the valve connector and ground the ground wire and jumper the open and then jumper the closed wire. If the valve does not work, your valve is bad. If it does open and closed follow back wires until you find the issue. Good luck

thanks I’ll try this trouble shoot. Do you mind going into more detail on the steps you stated?

 

[Tren__]

Had this on my Mach with the stock catback after I added the Steeda X Pipe. If you don’t have enough play in the system to shift everything back you might need to trim a little bit off of the mid pipe or catback to give yourself enough clearance.

Then you’ll need to address the wiring. I depinned the wires from the connector, straightened them out, isolated them from each other, and then double heat shrinked each wire. You’ll be good to go after that.

Wow. Alternatively can I just get a new wire part for 50$? I’m assuming if they wires were the problem for you I could just get a new one and add extra insulation before I replace it? Thanks for the input.

 

[greasy]

Wow. Alternatively can I just get a new wire part for 50$? I’m assuming if they wires were the problem for you I could just get a new one and add extra insulation before I replace it? Thanks for the input.

If you went that route you are not addressing the root cause and in my opinion it’s only a matter of time before you encounter the same issue. I did not see the need to buy a whole new harness when the exhaust was off the car and I could fix it for $free.99 with stuff I already have. You are going to have to drop the exhaust regardless to determine what the problem is.

The catback needs to shift back 1/2”-3/4” to gain proper clearance.

 

[Jose1962]

There was a similar thread last year and the wires at the plug rubbed and grounded out on the body where it bends 90° at the valve.

And most of time wires on passenger side is very close to a pinch weld and that’s where it shorts

 

[Tren__]

Ok after 3 days of not working, it just magically started working again lol.

 

[DougS550]

Ok after 3 days of not working, it just magically started working again lol.

I think you should inspect the valve connector and wires for shorting, chafing etc.

 

[Tren__]

I think you should inspect the valve connector and wires for shorting, chafing etc.

Will do. Also, should I try to zip tire the wire away from anything that might be chafing it? If the problem comes back I have a replace wire coming in anyways.

I have catless headers so these cold starts are a problem lool.

 

[DougS550]

Will do. Also, should I try to zip tire the wire away from anything that might be chafing it? If the problem comes back I have a replace wire coming in anyways.

I have catless headers so these cold starts are a problem lool.

Your wires should be like mine and have heat wrap around them which protects the wire but, yes. The wires should not be taunt and wires tied back away from exhaust. But, I would still inspect the connector to make sure the wire and pins are locked into the connector and preventing a solid contact and verify the wires have not chaffed or have bare wire somewhere possibly ground out.

 

[greasy]

I don’t know why this is so complicated !

1. Loosen up the catback hangers and unhook them on the passenger side.

2. Loosen the coupler from the mid pipe to the catback on the passenger side.

3. Disconnect the harness for the active exhaust.

4. Remove the passenger side of the catback from the vehicle.

5. Inspect the wiring right before the connector. If it’s frayed a worn through the insulation your exhaust is sitting too far back and you need to move the exhaust towards the front of the car.

6. If you don’t have enough play to move it 1/2” to 3/4” towards the front you need to trim either the catback or midpipe to allow this. If you don’t you will encounter the same problem, it’s only a matter of time.

Extra heat wrap won’t help you, a new harness will fail again, etc….

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