MPG problem

[AR306]

10.2? Is this data confirmed by stops at the gas station? I don't know much about EB, but I am guessing if you are regularly engaging the turbo, you will draw near as much fuel as a 5.0. But unless you are coming off stop lights floored, you should top 20mpg city. That's the whole point of EB. Whats highway mpg?

I fill up every 8-9 days and on average I drive about 20 miles per day if that.. probably less.

And the turbo spools really low in the revs.. it's hard not to be in boost with this damn thing.. on highway trips it nets 35mpg+ easily because it's just coasting out of boost, but in the city in bumper to bumper or light to light it's impossible to avoid getting into boost unless you want angry people honking at you, flipping you off or ramming their vehicle into yours.

Stop and go traffic is really what kills the mpgs.. once you get it up to 45mph it's easy to get almost 30mpg.. but constantly slowing down, stopping, starting and idling at lights completely decimates the mpg's.

And yes, I do enjoy my car to the max.. this baby pulls hard off the line, it's the only thing I like about the engine Lol.. I'm going to exploit it as much as possible.

Under WOT on boost this thing does between 2-4mpg.. I reset the counter right before a launch and those were the figures :shrug:

Under "normal" driving conditions I can get it to about 15mpg.. under perfect conditions with virtually no traffic I can get it to 18-19mpg.. I've only hit 20mpg in the city once.. and that was driving home after a night out at 4am with zero traffic and most traffic lights flashing.

On the highway.. get 35mpg+ at 80mph all day long.. this car would be great for road tripping in that regard. The range meter with a full tank for me reads 200 miles..

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[paul123]

And the turbo spools really low in the revs.. it's hard not to be in boost with this damn thing.. on highway trips it nets 35mpg+ easily because it's just coasting out of boost, but in the city in bumper to bumper or light to light it's impossible to avoid getting into boost unless you want angry people honking at you, flipping you off or ramming their vehicle into yours.

sounds like the car is working as designed. Just feed the beast and enjoy the car and try not to worked up over Fuel Remaining = 1/8 :headbonk:

 

[AR306]

sounds like the car is working as designed. Just feed the beast and enjoy the car and try not to worked up over Fuel Remaining = 1/8 :headbonk:

Oh I'm not concerned.. I was just responding to the OP who seems to be worried about his "poor economy" which is still much better than what I'm getting with the "eco" option Lol.

I'm more concerned with "smiles per gallon" as ThatDudeInBlue puts it.

 

[jasonstang]

As a newbie to mustang world, I have a question because I truly don't know the answer.
How should I drive a new car (pedal to the metal or like a Grandma) and for how long? My stang now has almost 600! I drove pretty hard this first miles, but always on the city...specially when stopped at the light...I push it hard. My mpg is bad...about 13 using 93oct. I hope I didn't do it the wrong way and hope that at some point my mpg can dramatically increase. Thanks for leaving your feedback.

You should drive it like you will normally drive it, i.e. not like a grandma or like a maniac.

 

[Wblv17]

is it possible to have a bad plug and not set off the Check Engine?

in any case, a highway run is a good test. See if the car makes 28mpg +/- 1mpg. Until then we are speculating.

from what I've read on the eco yes, worth checking plug gab, but he needs to set cruise at 65 and see avg. But then again I still need to check my own but I get good MPG on everything I drive as I drive like a old man and have a light foot. But I punch my throttle at least weekly and also on every car I buy I go do 20 to 80 runs 10 times to set rings within the first 50 miles. Never have used oil and never had engine issues but still change oil every 5,000 miles and never will do the when the car/truck tells me. Usually at 50% oil life.

reminder don't pull plugs unless engine is cold.

 

[Rough Hollow Man]

^^^What he says!

 

[Road Dog]

In my experience working on Gasoline engines I have learned that the rings on the pistons must wear slightly to give a good seal against the cylinder walls. That is the one thing gasoline engines must have to be declared broken in. The oil seals don't "break in", the valves in the cylinder heads don't "break in". The lifters and the camshafts don't "break in". Just the Rings against the cylinder walls. On Diesel engines the rings and cylinder walls are prepared much better than gasoline engines and they can run their higher compression from the initial start. But for our gas engines it takes a bit of time for the rings and cylinder walls to make that pressure holding seal that improves gas mileage and HP. One thing that slows that process quite a bit is the super slick oils in use today. Full Synthetic oil can lengthen the ring sealing process. IMO Semi Synthetic Oil will do the same thing.

I rebuilt a Harley Evo engine a few years back and promptly filled the tank with Mobil 1 for the break in process. 500 miles later I was still seeing below normal cylinder compression readings. Thinking I had made a rebuilding error I consulted my local Harley shop manager, after reviewing my procedures he asked what oil I was using. When I told him he said there it is then, use Dino oil for break in. I did as he suggested and was amazed when the rings sealed, it was an immediate improvement in performance.

I'm just throwing it out there the break in period for these cars will be a long time if you baby it because the Oil is that good.

 

[paul123]

In my experience working on Gasoline engines I have learned that the rings on the pistons must wear slightly to give a good seal against the cylinder walls. That is the one thing gasoline engines must have to be declared broken in.

Be interesting if someone pulled a plug and measure compression at various points in the break-in process to determine exactly how many miles (on OEM oil) it takes to reach optimal compression.

Wouldn't surprise me if MPG on the highway is as advertised but city driving is below par, due to a incomplete break-in. Engines do way more work coming off stop lights and slugging through stop & go traffic.

 

[JimmyTwoTimes]

Tried to see just how much MPG I could get out of my little Cyclone Stang vert last weekend...reset screen, running 5-20 RP full synthetic, half-tank of 93 gas, and 60* ambient temperature...drove normally(2,000-4,000rpms)...after 500 miles...30.4MPG. Pretty good I'd say.

I managed to get 31 mpg on a tank from Grand Canyon Village, Arizona to Needles, California... a pure highway trip that involves a 6000 foot elevation drop. Actual calculation, not the dashboard computer, which is always overoptimistic. Worst tank I've managed to get is 4 mpg (yes) in 40 miles of driving solely in NYC. Depends entirely on your driving style.

 

[Wblv17]

I managed to get 31 mpg on a tank from Grand Canyon Village, Arizona to Needles, California... a pure highway trip that involves a 6000 foot elevation drop. Actual calculation, not the dashboard computer, which is always overoptimistic. Worst tank I've managed to get is 4 mpg (yes) in 40 miles of driving solely in NYC. Depends entirely on your driving style.

welcome back, been over 3k rpms yet?

 

[JimmyTwoTimes]

welcome back, been over 3k rpms yet?

In the year I've had the car, I've probably done a dozen or so wide-open-throttle runs out of red lights, and maybe four or five more full-throttle passes on the road (including one in Arizona where I got up to 115 mph passing a bus without realizing how fast I was going). Other than that, no, not really. The transmission grabs for a higher gear before it gets to 2k rpms most times.

 

[andrew.k]

OP,

Check for seized caliper sliders. After a good drive, touch each wheel and feel if one is hotter than the other. It may be dragging. With a V6, you should be seeing 25MPG HWY.

Thanks,

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